Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1621936
05/19/14 01:11 AM
05/19/14 01:11 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Romeo MI
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I have about $1500 into my 9" with good parts and axles(there are some bigger dollar parts over what I have in mine) but I bought the housing cheap and shortened it and back braced it myself.. I didnt go with a spool but spent more on a posi style unit but a decent one.. thats new gears and bearing through out
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1621938
05/19/14 02:05 AM
05/19/14 02:05 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Quote:
That is not bad Mr P. I have had about the same or a little less into the Dana 60's we have built from truck housings depending on the axles, cover, etc. I love the look of a Dana 60 under a vintage Mopar but just had to ask afters searching and reading some of the old threads on 9" vs 8.75. Did you use a CM housing and back brace?
No its just the stock mild steel.. if I ever needed a CM housing I would buy one... but I dont need it.. I never cared for the dana 60 due to not being able to back brace it... yeah you can get the thick truck housings with the 3/8" thick tubes but they are heavy... even with that and enough torque and a heavy car it can bend those tubes(mild steel)... I've seen a couple of danas that had a back brace with a bolt on section over the cover area.. but that HAD to have a fuel cell(no way would it fit in with a stock tank).... this is JMO on the dana
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1621940
05/19/14 02:41 AM
05/19/14 02:41 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Quote:
My car has a fuel cell so no problem there. I am thinking a CM .250 tube Currie housing with an aluminum center section and bearing retainer would be cool. The only thing I'd have to change would be my beloved 10" rear drum brakes.
No clue to what that would cost when its done and in the car... housing, center section, spool, gears, bearing, axles and a new drive shaft... then your brakes.. I bought drum brakes for my 9" from Dr Diff along with his axles... I wanted drum for the hold power on the starting line since mine is a foot brake car
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1621942
05/19/14 03:19 AM
05/19/14 03:19 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,102 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
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Quote:
Quote:
My car has a fuel cell so no problem there. I am thinking a CM .250 tube Currie housing with an aluminum center section and bearing retainer would be cool. The only thing I'd have to change would be my beloved 10" rear drum brakes.
No clue to what that would cost when its done and in the car... housing, center section, spool, gears, bearing, axles and a new drive shaft... then your brakes.. I bought drum brakes for my 9" from Dr Diff along with his axles... I wanted drum for the hold power on the starting line since mine is a foot brake car
Yeah...I don;t really need the drums for launch on the stick car. I have valve float for that.
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1621944
05/19/14 03:46 AM
05/19/14 03:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,016 Polson, MT
DoctorDiff
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Depends on your application.
I like S-60 rears for high torque, leaf spring equipped street/strip cars.
9" traction differentials are not particularly strong because clearance issues with the pocket bearing at the end of the pinion dictates small moving parts inside the carrier. In contrast, Dana 60 traction differentials are much more robust.
Due to the sheet-metal construction, 9" rears require a back brace for housing strength. This does not jive cleanly with leaf spring perches and shocks.
Because the tubes insert several inches into a machined casting, a back brace is not as critical on an S-60 housing.
The best thing is, I sell a new BOLT-IN, 35 spline S-60 rear with heavy duty S-Trac differential for $2175
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#1621945
05/19/14 04:00 AM
05/19/14 04:00 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,102 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
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Quote:
Depends on your application.
I like S-60 rears for high torque, leaf spring equipped street/strip cars.
9" traction differentials are not particularly strong because clearance issues with the pocket bearing at the end of the pinion dictates small moving parts inside the carrier. In contrast, Dana 60 traction differentials are much more robust.
Due to the sheet-metal construction, 9" rears require a back brace for housing strength. This does not jive cleanly with leaf spring perches and shocks.
Because the tubes insert several inches into a machined casting, a back brace is not as critical on an S-60 housing.
The best thing is, I sell a new BOLT-IN, 35 spline S-60 rear with heavy duty S-Trac differential for $2175
The shocks are one thing that had me wondering. Funny thing you were my next call Dr Diff. Thanks for sharing your insight.
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1621946
05/19/14 04:56 AM
05/19/14 04:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,937 A shed in England
Tig
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Dana 60, 4:10's, 4 pinion suregrip(?), Moser 35 spline axles. It's been in since 2001 behind a 440, 528, 572 and next a 655. HTH's
'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials. 9.51 @ 142.4 1/4, 6.003 @ 114 1/8 with our old mule KB, 572-13, 580 wedge. RHD '68 Barracuda Fastback 323ci street/strip. Best ET 13.88 @ 99.03
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1621948
05/19/14 06:37 AM
05/19/14 06:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
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Monte covered this in the other thread:
ANYTHING.......CAN be broken, that is a fact. But it is also a fact that a 9" can be built into a MUCH stronger drop out style rear than an 8.75, as witnessed by the fact being that is the rear of choice under 99% of high HP race cars on the planet. The fact that ANY of those parts may or may not be an original Ford part is a moot point. It is a Ford design.....it's a 9" Ford.
The reason a DANA holds up better than an 8.75 is just because of the massive size and strength of the center section itself. The case will not flex near as much in the pinion area, even without the support bearing of the 9".
While the center strength of the DANA is a plus, its rear load design is a weakness. It is IMPOSSIBLE to properly brace the housing itself, to keep IT from flexing and bending the axle tubes. If the tubes have any length to them, they WILL bend and you can't stop it.
Any of this has ZERO to do with if you are a TRUE Mopar guy or not, it has to do with putting the proper part under your car to do what YOU need to do and it last.
Radials are HARD on parts. The tire is hooked or its not. There is no in between. You CAN'T spin or slip a radial and it still go down like a slick. A Radial DEAD HOOKS and THAT is hard on parts with a lot of power. You will bend or break EVERYTHING in the drive line if it is not beefy enough.
In our own radial car, that weighed about 2900lbs, we had a VERY well built Moser mild steel housing, that was heavily braced. The car was 60 footing in the high teens to low 20 at that time. We bent the housing 3 times. When the car got hard to push, we knew the tubes were bent. It would bend them out at the ends. Have seen it bent as much as an inch per side. Once you got the axles out, they did NOT go back in. We now have a chromoly housing, with .250 wall chromoly tubes and it is braced and built like you would a housing in a Pro-Mod. The car now goes 1.0 60fts at 2700lbs and we have NOT bent that housing. We have 40 spline gun drilled axles, a pro series spool, pro gears and both a Mark Williams or a Strange thru bolt case, depending on what gear we run. Expensive parts......yes..........but we have NEVER broken a gear or anything rear end related.
NOW........does EVERYBODY need the parts we have, of course not. What YOU need, depends on what you plan to do. My issue is with the constant "put a Dana under it" chatter every time this subject comes up. While a great rear for some applications, for others it is DEAD WRONG. And for a 3000lb radial car, that has the potential to go low 5s, like the two cars Bill is talking about. A DANA is the WRONG choice..........period.
Just because you broke an 8.75 in your 9 or 10 second car and "fixed" it with a Dana, does NOT mean that is what everybody needs to do. The proper parts are application specific
Monte
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: justinp61]
#1621950
05/19/14 10:34 AM
05/19/14 10:34 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177 ill
dennismopar73
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Quote:
Application, application, application, it all depends on the application. The Dana in my Dart is all I'll ever need. Complete minus brakes it was $1950 shipped from Strange. A CM housing with no ends is over $1200.
I agree , But,, I'm not a fan of running 9" Ford's over the 8 3/4 wr have ran deep in the 9 s with basic stock gears in an 83/4 with no issue's. But some.have I'm sure it has to do with leaving at such high rpm s something going to break! A Dana maybe heavier but it is.not robbing as.much hp as those.of the 9" and 8 3/4 do so even tho you change to it most cars do not lose et. Some may gain .
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: dennismopar73]
#1621951
05/19/14 10:51 AM
05/19/14 10:51 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330 Lynchburg, VA
Leon441
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Lynchburg, VA
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Some of the info that keeps getting reposted as gospel is just not so in my own findings.
There are reasons to run either rear. Most are buried in the misinformation posted on here. I have ran a Dana 60 for 20 years. Never bent the housing and it has no brace. I use a lw cover with no links to a brace. When the tubes are welded to the center housing it makes a very strong unit.
The reason to not run a Dana 60 is gear choice when needing a pro gear. You are limited with 4.10 and whatever lower gear may be on a shelf somewhere.
9" is plentiful with any gear imaginable. A lower pinion with more mesh. You may or may not want this.
A heavy leaf spring car never seeing over 1000 LD ft of torquefrom the crank will do awesome with a Dana.
Career best 8.02 @ 169 at 3050# and 10" tires small block power.
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: dennismopar73]
#1621952
05/19/14 11:02 AM
05/19/14 11:02 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,686 W. Kentucky
justinp61
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I Live Here
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Quote:
Quote:
Application, application, application, it all depends on the application. The Dana in my Dart is all I'll ever need. Complete minus brakes it was $1950 shipped from Strange. A CM housing with no ends is over $1200.
I agree , But,, I'm not a fan of running 9" Ford's over the 8 3/4 wr have ran deep in the 9 s with basic stock gears in an 83/4 with no issue's. But some.have I'm sure it has to do with leaving at such high rpm s something going to break! A Dana maybe heavier but it is.not robbing as.much hp as those.of the 9" and 8 3/4 do so even tho you change to it most cars do not lose et. Some may gain .
Several guys have got by running an 8 3/4, I didn't. Mine broke the second time my 408 hooked up. It had maybe 30 7.30 1/8 mile passes and 1000 street miles behind my 340. The Dana is worth the $$ for the piece of mind.
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Re: 9" Vs. Dana 60
[Re: rickseeman]
#1621954
05/19/14 11:38 AM
05/19/14 11:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,049 MN
JERICOGTX
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Quote:
It's a Mopar. Put a Dana under it.
Since when is a Dana a Mopar part? Both my Dana's came out of 1 ton Ford trucks. If I was starting from scratch I would put a 9" under the car to save weight.
Jeff
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