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Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor #1611723
04/25/14 12:19 AM
04/25/14 12:19 AM
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Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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I'm trying to upgrade the distributor in my car by installing a Pertronix Ignitor. I also decided to buy the Flamethrower coil as well. I have it all hooked up but the car won't start, but engine does turn over. From doing some internet research it looks like if I use the stock coil I can run the ballast resistor, but if I use the Flamethrower coil I need to remove or bypass the ballast resistor.

My question is probably pretty simple for many of you, but I am not sure how to bypass the ballast resistor. I would like to keep everything as stock looking as possible, but I am a worried about hacking into my wiring harness if necessary. The car is a 1968 Plymouth Fury 383 4bbl, all original.

Tomorrow I am going to install the stock coil back in the car and see if it starts just to be sure I have the Pertronix installed correctly.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611724
04/25/14 12:46 AM
04/25/14 12:46 AM
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Morristown Tn.
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71birdJ68 Offline
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Which Pertronix do you have? There are different ways to go according to which one you have.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 71birdJ68] #1611725
04/25/14 12:54 AM
04/25/14 12:54 AM
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Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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It is the PRT-1381A


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611726
04/25/14 01:00 AM
04/25/14 01:00 AM
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RapidRobert Offline
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this is the instruction sheet from a $2 swap meet Toyouta Pertronix conversion kit. I'd think it'd be the same as ours. EDIT I'd guess that the P positive terminal ain't getting fire in ign2 "start" which'd be the brown wire on the downstream end of the ballast. Post how you have it wired.

8123562-pertronix2.jpg (6539 downloads)
Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/25/14 01:07 AM.

live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: RapidRobert] #1611727
04/25/14 01:13 AM
04/25/14 01:13 AM
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The easiest way to retain the stock looks would be to buy another ballast resistor, gut it and just solder in some wire in place of the resistors. It'll look like you still have a ballast, but it'll pass full voltage/current.


Bloody Mary, Full of Vodka, Blessed art thou among cocktails....

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611728
04/25/14 01:23 AM
04/25/14 01:23 AM
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Your best to eliminate the ballast resistor, if you want it to look "stock", gut out the back of the ballast resistor, solder in an insulated #10 gauge wire to the two terminal, make sure there's no exposed metal surfaces on the backside of the ballast after you mod it, plug it back into the system...the coil hook up is RED wire to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil, BLACK wire to the NEGATIVE terminal on the coil, your ignition lead from the firewall junction block (usually BLUE) should go to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil...your done

Is an air gap adjustment required on your Pertronix? if so adjust to the recommended spec using the PLASTIC supplied feeler gauge, don't use steel or brass feelers

The Pertronix install will re-phase the timing , even if you did the install in car and didn't move the distributor, timing could be anywhere from 5-25 degrees BTDC/ATDC a reason the car may not start after install

Was there green tape on the Mag?, if so did you remove it? (I hope not!)

Use a copper terminal cap, no solid core wires, don't leave the key on in the ignition mode without the engine running for more than 20-30 seconds, as you could destroy the HallCell

Mike

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: RapidRobert] #1611729
04/25/14 01:28 AM
04/25/14 01:28 AM
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Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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I believe I have it wired like figure 2. I put the Pertronix in the distributor and then ran the black wire and red wire to the terminals of the coil. There were other wires attached to the terminals of the old coil and I kept those on the same terminals (the car has a column mounted tach and the coil capacitor - I think that is what its called).

But the coil is the new Flamethrower coil since I swapped that too….I guess I made too many changes at once…my bad luck.

But from what I have read if I keep the stock coil the wiring should work the way I have it, but since I am using the Flamethrower I need to bypass the ballast resistor because the new coil requires 12V.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611730
04/25/14 01:34 AM
04/25/14 01:34 AM
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RapidRobert Offline
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fastest would be to jump across the ballast with a jumper wire & see if a plug wire is sparking to ground as a helper turns the ign key. If good to that point then maybe the P phasing changed the timing to where it wont start (I'm doubltful) or much more likely the new style gap in the dist ain't right. Keep us updated


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: RapidRobert] #1611731
04/25/14 10:11 AM
04/25/14 10:11 AM
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I have a jumper on my BR with the flamethrower coil and pertronix igniter I

1 keyed hot wire/red wire on + side of coil

black wire/green tach wire on -side of coil

mine has been in use 19 yrs now. moved to different dist along the way. never a issue. I have tried a II & III and my duel point conversions..all no worky for me.

do you have the airgap set at .030 with the plastic feeler gauge?

or does is the airgap pre-set?


Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611732
04/25/14 11:14 AM
04/25/14 11:14 AM
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Morristown Tn.
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71birdJ68 Offline
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When I asked about which one you had, I meant is it a I, II, or III. That is where the differences come in. It also determines which flamethrower coil you should use, or weather you even need one, and weather you need to bypass the ballast resistor or not.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 71birdJ68] #1611733
04/25/14 01:20 PM
04/25/14 01:20 PM
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Jefferson State
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also If you modify the 12v into the ballast by putting one of the connectors that have a male jumper onto the pertronix lead, plug it to the ballast and to that jumper connect the 12 v. in.
Another trick with the pertronix it to not crank it right away when keying the ignition, let it pause in the 'run' position for a moment and then fire it off.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: DAYCLONA] #1611734
04/25/14 10:06 PM
04/25/14 10:06 PM
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Quote:

Your best to eliminate the ballast resistor, if you want it to look "stock", gut out the back of the ballast resistor, solder in an insulated #10 gauge wire to the two terminal, make sure there's no exposed metal surfaces on the backside of the ballast after you mod it, plug it back into the system...the coil hook up is RED wire to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil, BLACK wire to the NEGATIVE terminal on the coil, your ignition lead from the firewall junction block (usually BLUE) should go to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil...your done

Is an air gap adjustment required on your Pertronix? if so adjust to the recommended spec using the PLASTIC supplied feeler gauge, don't use steel or brass feelers

The Pertronix install will re-phase the timing , even if you did the install in car and didn't move the distributor, timing could be anywhere from 5-25 degrees BTDC/ATDC a reason the car may not start after install

Was there green tape on the Mag?, if so did you remove it? (I hope not!)

Use a copper terminal cap, no solid core wires, don't leave the key on in the ignition mode without the engine running for more than 20-30 seconds, as you could destroy the HallCell

Mike




OP, read and reread this post ^^^^^^

Follow his instructions and be done with it.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 64Post] #1611735
04/25/14 10:49 PM
04/25/14 10:49 PM
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Charleston, South Carolina
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That does sound like a good plan, but at this point I am ready to throw in the towel and put the points back in. Tonight I starting putting the stock coil back in and the positive stud broke off. I drove to Advance to get one and tried it. Still no start.

Looking at this diagram, it looks like I need to attach the red wire to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor. I guess I don't understand how to do that. The resistor is about as far from the distributor as you can get as it is over by the DS hood hinge, so the wire will not reach. The red wire has a round terminal end and the resistor has plugs...I am not sure how to get it hooked up.

I knew I should have left a running car alone.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611736
04/26/14 12:47 AM
04/26/14 12:47 AM
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When I (used to) get in that position I would walk away for a day sometimes 2 to clear my head. We WILL get this! this is a 67 RT correct?


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611737
04/26/14 01:17 AM
04/26/14 01:17 AM
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Have you called Pertronix to talk to them about it?

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 71birdJ68] #1611738
04/26/14 01:29 AM
04/26/14 01:29 AM
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Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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I have not tried calling Pertronix yet. It's very frustrating when you read all these ads and magazine tests and they make it seem like it is the easiest thing to install. Well they don't factor in dropping the small nuts and screws and crawling on the garage floor looking for them...haha.

I guess from the diagram I don't have the red wire in the correct spot at the moment (using a standard coil), but I can't figure out how to attach the red wire where it needs to go. I guess I need a picture. This is going on a 68 Fury and the ballast resistor is actually mounted on the inner fender area by the drivers side hood hinge, so the wire is not long enough to reach the resistor.

I think tomorrow I am going to try the steps Dayclona described and pray it works.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611739
04/26/14 02:07 AM
04/26/14 02:07 AM
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Quote:

That does sound like a good plan, but at this point I am ready to throw in the towel and put the points back in. Tonight I starting putting the stock coil back in and the positive stud broke off. I drove to Advance to get one and tried it. Still no start.

Looking at this diagram, it looks like I need to attach the red wire to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor. I guess I don't understand how to do that. The resistor is about as far from the distributor as you can get as it is over by the DS hood hinge, so the wire will not reach. The red wire has a round terminal end and the resistor has plugs...I am not sure how to get it hooked up.

I knew I should have left a running car alone.




Like someone said above, follow the instructions that Dayclona posted. Easy as pie. Exactly how I did mine, took all of 15-20 mins to hook up. Afterwqrds, you may have to turn the dizzy left or right slightly because of the pertronix slightly changing the phasing, a very easy adjustment.

roe



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611740
04/26/14 03:46 AM
04/26/14 03:46 AM
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Quote:

....it looks like I need to attach the red wire to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor. I guess I don't understand how to do that.



That is exactly what the little terminal I mentioned does, sure you add a second wire to the ballast, yet no other mods are required.
I've done this several times, and unless you are doing a show car who cares about a second wire that is easily hidden?
Hook that thing up in about 2 minutes. Terminal is at any auto parts store.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611741
04/26/14 09:56 AM
04/26/14 09:56 AM
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You still haven't said weather you have a I, II, or III.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611742
04/26/14 11:15 AM
04/26/14 11:15 AM
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Quote:

but I can't figure out how to attach the red wire where it needs to go. I guess I need a picture. This is going on a 68 Fury and the ballast resistor is actually mounted on the inner fender area by the drivers side hood hinge, so the wire is not long enough to reach the resistor







When you installed the Pertronix in the distributor, you now have 2 wires (leads) RED AND BLACK, the RED goes to the POSITVE (+) side of the coil, the BLACK wire goes to the NEGITIVE(-) side of the coil, the BLUE wire, or the IGNITION wire from your bulkhead terminal goes to the POSITIVE (+) side of the coil, this is for a 12 volt system, GET RID OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR, 2 ways to do this, either install the #10 gauge insulated wire in the resistor after gutting the coil out of it like I described above in my other post, or just connect the two wires that go to the ballast resistor together, either with a double blade connector, or cut the ends off and solder them together, if you do the dummy ballast conversion, it will look stock, and the wiring will remain stock, but either choice is yours, BUT GET RID OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR

USE THE PROPER FLAME THROWER COIL as it's ohm rating and turn ratio are different than the stock coil

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