Re: 340 Stroker - 1970 Cuda
[Re: 340Cuda1970]
#1610268
04/22/14 02:17 AM
04/22/14 02:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,551
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,551
So Cal
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Quote:
I agree it doesn't look like it will cost much more than to rebuild stock which is why I am dabbling in the idea. Any recommendations on SCAT vs Eagle. I don't plan to go over 500 HP, Just a weekend driver that makes heads turn. Maybe hit the strip once a year if lucky . If possibly looking to stay $1500 or under including Crank, Rods, Pistons, and Bearings.
Buying a used 340 crank and having it turned and polished is probably only $150 less then the stroker crank when included in the kit. And might even be the same or more than the stroker crank the way used 340 parts go. The rods are the same exact rods you'd put in a 340. The piston are almost the same cost.
Since you need a crank, this is almost a wash for you.
Scat cast internally balenced is what I used. I got it from Moparts member, OU812 (Brian), www.immengines.com . I actually got the factory balance. It's been fine. Brian is a real practical guy and said he has checked the Scat balance jobs and they are fine for a under 500 hp street/strip motor. Sure it could have a better balance job. And there is probably a "better" balance job than the better balance job. On an on... But the Scat job was figured fine and level matched for my 430-460 hp motor.
I've got 5975 miles since 2011. I beat on it. I drive to the grocery store with it. Take it to Willow Springs Road Course at least once a year, run it through the day, then drive 80 miles home. I've got edelbrock head and headers. I think you could pocket port X or J heads and not be a big setback from E-brock heads.
If you are running exhaust manifolds, maybe look into having the cam ground on a 112 lobe seperation.
Last edited by autoxcuda; 04/22/14 05:42 AM.
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Re: 340 Stroker - 1970 Cuda
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1610269
04/22/14 05:10 AM
04/22/14 05:10 AM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
I agree it doesn't look like it will cost much more than to rebuild stock which is why I am dabbling in the idea. Any recommendations on SCAT vs Eagle. I don't plan to go over 500 HP, Just a weekend driver that makes heads turn. Maybe hit the strip once a year if lucky . If possibly looking to stay $1500 or under including Crank, Rods, Pistons, and Bearings.
Buying a used 340 crank and having it turned and polished is probably only $150 less then the stroker crank when included in the kit. And might even be the same or more than the stroker crank the way used 340 parts go. The rods are the same exact rods you'd put in a 340. The piston are almost the same cost.
Since you need a crank, this is almost a wash for you.
Scat cast internally balenced is what I used. I got it from Moparts member, OU812 (Brian), www.immengines.com . I actually got the factory balance. It's been fine. Brian is a real practical guy and said he has checked the Scat balence jobs and they are fine for a under 500 hp street/strip motor. Sure it could have a better balence job. And there is probably a "better" balence job than the better balence job. On an on... But the Scat job was figured fine for my 430-460 hp motor.
I've got 5975 miles since 2011. I beat on it. Take it to Willow Springs Road Course at least once a year, run it through the day, then drive 80 miles home. I've got edelbrock head and headers. I think you could pocket port X or J heads and not be a big setback from E-brock heads.
If you are running exhaust manifolds, maybe look into having the cam ground on a 112 lobe seperation.
curious what compression are you running with this setup?
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Re: 340 Stroker - 1970 Cuda
[Re: dangina]
#1610270
04/22/14 05:32 AM
04/22/14 05:32 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,551
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,551
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I agree it doesn't look like it will cost much more than to rebuild stock which is why I am dabbling in the idea. Any recommendations on SCAT vs Eagle. I don't plan to go over 500 HP, Just a weekend driver that makes heads turn. Maybe hit the strip once a year if lucky . If possibly looking to stay $1500 or under including Crank, Rods, Pistons, and Bearings.
Buying a used 340 crank and having it turned and polished is probably only $150 less then the stroker crank when included in the kit. And might even be the same or more than the stroker crank the way used 340 parts go. The rods are the same exact rods you'd put in a 340. The piston are almost the same cost.
Since you need a crank, this is almost a wash for you.
Scat cast internally balenced is what I used. I got it from Moparts member, OU812 (Brian), www.immengines.com . I actually got the factory balance. It's been fine. Brian is a real practical guy and said he has checked the Scat balence jobs and they are fine for a under 500 hp street/strip motor. Sure it could have a better balence job. And there is probably a "better" balence job than the better balence job. On an on... But the Scat job was figured fine for my 430-460 hp motor.
I've got 5975 miles since 2011. I beat on it. Take it to Willow Springs Road Course at least once a year, run it through the day, then drive 80 miles home. I've got edelbrock head and headers. I think you could pocket port X or J heads and not be a big setback from E-brock heads.
If you are running exhaust manifolds, maybe look into having the cam ground on a 112 lobe seperation.
curious what compression are you running with this setup?
9.8:1
I run California grade 91 octane pump gas.
Oiling system/pan setup for road course track days
ENGINE (as of 3/27/2011...)
•SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine.
•BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag.
•OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap.
•HEADS:Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block, 9.8:1 compression
•VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal
•CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050
•ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers.
•INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched.
•CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines
•FUEL LINE: 3/8" sender and 3/8" body fuel line. Firesleeve near headers.
•IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor
•OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project!
•Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit
•BOLTS AND STUDS: Milodon Made in USA all in house. Heads, Mains, Oil Pan
COOLING SYSTEM:
•WATER PUMP: Milodon aluminum
•RADIATOR: Champion 4 core
•T-STAT: Milodon brass 160 degree
•FAN CLUTCH: Hayden #2765 (short 3 5/16" mounting)
•FAN : MP shortened
•FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler
•SHROUD: Hand made aluminum, foam sealed to radiator.
EXHAUST
•HEADERS: TTI best ground clearance. Port matched, ceramic coated outside, thremal barrier coating inside. Best quality.
•EXHAUST: TTI X-pipe with Super Turbos 2 1/2"
Sounds like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8QSTlvdqSs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfJI_CQ98C4
Last edited by autoxcuda; 04/22/14 05:34 AM.
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Re: 340 Stroker - 1970 Cuda
[Re: 340Cuda1970]
#1610271
04/22/14 09:02 AM
04/22/14 09:02 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,702
W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,702
W. Kentucky
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Quote:
Any recommendations on SCAT vs Eagle.
Do not run an eagle cast crank! They have a history of breaking even in mild applications.
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