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I have this alternator on my Charger. It looks perfectly OEM and dropped right on. No fabbin or modifying anything....

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I was allmost to pull the trigger for the TuffStuff alt, but emailed them asking for iddle specs and told me their alt put at iddle around 45 amps. That retracted me on pull the trigger.

I don't need 100 amps alt max output, I need/wish 55 amps at iddle.

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I'm not sure who you talked to, but their own spec shows 60 amps at idle (800 engine RPM). I think that is a bit generous as it starts to discharge slightly when my loads approach 50-55 amps when the car is idling (750 RPM). These alternators drop off fast when you lower RPM's so if you aren't idling at 800 RPM in gear, then you are already going to be lower than the advertised idle output of any alternator.

Before this I tried the 78 amp squareback, and this one is perceptibly better. I'm not going to say way better but it doesn't discharge as deeply when those electric fans go on at idle. At idle, this one seems to put out around 8-10 more amps than the 78 amp unit. This 8-10 amps make a big difference when you want to hit another accessory like lights, A/C, etc. Now with the 100 amp unit, worst case is I discharge maybe 5-10 amps when idling with EVERYTHING on which never happens. I also converted to LED lighting just about everywhere which helps on the load. I don't get the wild right swinging needle anymore when I take off after idling.

Here is a picture of the little you can see of my alternator. It's buried under heater hoses and my A/C lines...

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What about the Billet customs from Quality power auto.. 125 amps at idle?? Expensive but what do our cars need ( amps) at idle??

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This is what I measured with clamp gauges on my 1973 Charger:

- engine ignition circuit 15 amps
- electric choke 1 amp
- Retro sound stereo (no external amp) < 1 amp
- headlights 13 amps
- brights 18 amps
- electric fans 20 amps (you don't have)
- A/C clutch 4 amps
- HVAC blower 5-8 amps
- interior/exterior/brake lighting (LED) 4-5amps

Pick your loads and add them up! Your lighting circuit will be considerably higher than mine if you don't have LED bulbs. I would say 10-12 amps higher.

Some discharge is OK if it happens occasionally and isn't deep like over 5-10 amps or so. It is the deep discharge/deep charge cycles that occur when you idle then take off that wear out these harnesses and melt connectors/gauges etc. Puny alternators that are 10-20+ amps behind at idle and then have to replenish that charge every time you stop/go will wear out the wiring.

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I was allmost to pull the trigger for the TuffStuff alt, but emailed them asking for iddle specs and told me their alt put at iddle around 45 amps. That retracted me on pull the trigger.

I don't need 100 amps alt max output, I need/wish 55 amps at iddle.

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I'm not sure who you talked to, but their own spec shows 60 amps at idle (800 engine RPM). I think that is a bit generous as it starts to discharge slightly when my loads approach 50-55 amps when the car is idling (750 RPM). These alternators drop off fast when you lower RPM's so if you aren't idling at 800 RPM in gear, then you are already going to be lower than the advertised idle output of any alternator.

Before this I tried the 78 amp squareback, and this one is perceptibly better. I'm not going to say way better but it doesn't discharge as deeply when those electric fans go on at idle. At idle, this one seems to put out around 8-10 more amps than the 78 amp unit. This 8-10 amps make a big difference when you want to hit another accessory like lights, A/C, etc. Now with the 100 amp unit, worst case is I discharge maybe 5-10 amps when idling with EVERYTHING on which never happens. I also converted to LED lighting just about everywhere which helps on the load. I don't get the wild right swinging needle anymore when I take off after idling.

Here is a picture of the little you can see of my alternator. It's buried under heater hoses and my A/C lines...

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Some discharge is OK if it happens occasionally and isn't deep like over 5-10 amps or so. It is the deep discharge/deep charge cycles that occur when you idle then take off that wear out these harnesses and melt connectors/gauges etc. Puny alternators that are 10-20+ amps behind at idle and then have to replenish that charge every time you stop/go will wear out the wiring.

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Small update here:

Had my old alternator ( not the rebuilt on the car) tested. Puts out 55 amps total.. Alternator store was unable to spin it at low RPM to tell me what it puts out at idle..

Did have the car out the other night.. Really doesn't do to bad ( voltage wize) at night until I turn on the heater at idle..

Did look into Quality power Autos high charge at idle claim on there hipo alts.. There Stats showed idle speed of 2500 RPM?? What kind of shmoo is that?? I am going to call them and see if they can tell what kinda amp output at 800 rpms...

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Alternators are commonly specified in alternator RPM which with a standard pulley, is 3x engine RPM. So 2400 alternator RPM is considered 'idle' which correlates to 800 engine RPM with a standard pulley.

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Small update here:

Had my old alternator ( not the rebuilt on the car) tested. Puts out 55 amps total.. Alternator store was unable to spin it at low RPM to tell me what it puts out at idle..

Did have the car out the other night.. Really doesn't do to bad ( voltage wize) at night until I turn on the heater at idle..

Did look into Quality power Autos high charge at idle claim on there hipo alts.. There Stats showed idle speed of 2500 RPM?? What kind of shmoo is that?? I am going to call them and see if they can tell what kinda amp output at 800 rpms...

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Alternators are commonly specified in alternator RPM which with a standard pulley, is 3x engine RPM. So 2400 alternator RPM is considered 'idle' which correlates to 800 engine RPM with a standard pulley.

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What about the Billet customs from Quality power auto.. 125 amps at idle?? Expensive but what do our cars need ( amps) at idle??

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This is what I measured with clamp gauges on my 1973 Charger:

- engine ignition circuit 15 amps
- electric choke 1 amp
- Retro sound stereo (no external amp) < 1 amp
- headlights 13 amps
- brights 18 amps
- electric fans 20 amps (you don't have)
- A/C clutch 4 amps
- HVAC blower 5-8 amps
- interior/exterior/brake lighting (LED) 4-5amps

Pick your loads and add them up! Your lighting circuit will be considerably higher than mine if you don't have LED bulbs. I would say 10-12 amps higher.

Some discharge is OK if it happens occasionally and isn't deep like over 5-10 amps or so. It is the deep discharge/deep charge cycles that occur when you idle then take off that wear out these harnesses and melt connectors/gauges etc. Puny alternators that are 10-20+ amps behind at idle and then have to replenish that charge every time you stop/go will wear out the wiring.

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The 20 amps for electric fans looks low..
Usually thats the draw per fan...
Also they typically pull even more when Powered ON..

Just my $0.05...