Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: 79machocharger]
#1587342
03/03/14 01:07 PM
03/03/14 01:07 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
I'd suggest welding cables of a heavy gauge & know the lengths you need ahead of time (do your measureing) & have em cut em to length at the time of purchase then crimp on the terminals with their special tool. wouldn't hurt to solder em also. I ran a short length from the neg post to the floor then the from the positive post forward to the starter large lug & from the starter large lug to the starter relay large "batt" stud. I plumbed the ammeter in series between the starter and the relay to show any current coming to or from the battery. Everything else up front (except that) stayed the same. Some ain't comfortable with the large cable being hot all the time but welding cable insulation is very thick & as you know you dont route it near sharp edges that will fray it over time & you secure it with Adel clamps regularly along its' length. This keeps everything simple/straitforward & worked for me. I dont remember what gauge I used but iirc it was either 1 ought or 2 ought but this was for the stock car that was dealing with hot restarts on hot summer nights & I wanted no voltage drop that would embarrass me with a no start. If you dont want it hot all the time be sure & use a "continuous duty" furd solenoid rather than a common parts house item & that route is a more complicated setup. EDIT run the alt to the starter relay
Last edited by RapidRobert; 03/03/14 02:02 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: chrisnben]
#1587344
03/03/14 01:51 PM
03/03/14 01:51 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,443
ME
79machocharger
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,443
ME
|
|
|
|
Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1587346
03/03/14 03:16 PM
03/03/14 03:16 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
|
Has NHRA changed the cut off switch rule since 2011? The 2011 rule book specifically stated and in bold letters that the cut off must be in the positive line. You can't use the negative gable to be legal. Excerpt from 2011 rule book, General Regulations 8:4 Quote:
This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition.
Rarely have they looked in the trunk to verify which wire is in line, but, you never know. Most of the time they have you start the car then throw the switch, if it dies, you pass...
Good thing they spend more time on that 2 year seat belt cert...
|
|
|
Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1587347
03/03/14 03:59 PM
03/03/14 03:59 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
|
Quote:
I'd suggest welding cables of a heavy gauge & know the lengths you need ahead of time (do your measureing) & have em cut em to length at the time of purchase then crimp on the terminals with their special tool. wouldn't hurt to solder em also. I ran a short length from the neg post to the floor then the from the positive post forward to the starter large lug & from the starter large lug to the starter relay large "batt" stud. I plumbed the ammeter in series between the starter and the relay to show any current coming to or from the battery. Everything else up front (except that) stayed the same. Some ain't comfortable with the large cable being hot all the time but welding cable insulation is very thick & as you know you dont route it near sharp edges that will fray it over time & you secure it with Adel clamps regularly along its' length. This keeps everything simple/straitforward & worked for me. I dont remember what gauge I used but iirc it was either 1 ought or 2 ought but this was for the stock car that was dealing with hot restarts on hot summer nights & I wanted no voltage drop that would embarrass me with a no start. If you dont want it hot all the time be sure & use a "continuous duty" furd solenoid rather than a common parts house item & that route is a more complicated setup. EDIT run the alt to the starter relay
I like welding cable also for battery cables. They are lot's heavier, so I think they carry current better?
I have made many custom battery cables with 1/0 and 2/0 welding cables. I've made them for big trucks and race cars. I made all the cables that powers the aircraft starter we use to start our blown hemi.
I have had a welding cable in my 74 challenger since 1985 or so when I put the battery back there. I'm not sure if I used 1/0 or 2/0 to go from the front to the back. But I can say it's never been a problem for me as I have driven my car all over the country is some really extreme and hot conditions and it always started.
Lastly the way I make the cables are to clamp a eyelet into my vice and using a map gas torch fill the eyelet full of solder, reg solder you use to solder wires. When it's full and hot with the torch on it, you slide the cable down into the eyelet and then remove the torch. I have never crimped any eyelets and have never had one fail or cor road. I do use a piece of shrink sleeve to finish it off. I have used these in battery boxes of big trucks where there's lot's of salt also.
Works better than some battery cables I've bought.
|
|
|
Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: bigboysurf58]
#1587349
03/12/14 11:09 AM
03/12/14 11:09 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,908
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
|
Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,908
Ontario, Canada
|
Quote:
Lastly the way I make the cables are to clamp a eyelet into my vice and using a map gas torch fill the eyelet full of solder, reg solder you use to solder wires. When it's full and hot with the torch on it, you slide the cable down into the eyelet and then remove the torch.
Without heating the cable the solder does not flow up and "tin" the individual strands. What you end up with is the solder around the outside of the cable and that's all. Also, because the cable isn't heated you possibly have a "cold joint". Yes, its holding the terminal on and conducting electricity, but not to its full potential. The joint would be much better if the insulation was peeled back and the cable heated along with the terminal, use flux on both the cable and the terminal and then feed solder into it. When cool, use a solvent to clean away any remaining flux, pull the insulation back over the cable and cover the seam with heat shrink.
|
|
|
Re: battery relocation kits to the trunk?
[Re: Stanton]
#1587351
03/12/14 12:34 PM
03/12/14 12:34 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,318
Ohio
jlatessa
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,318
Ohio
|
I agree, I first make a mechanical crimp for extra strength and heat conductivity then
heat the lug until the solder flows and fills the lug watching to see it wicking into the cable strands too.
A wet rag to quickly cool it so the wire insul. doesn't degrade and you're done.....Joe
Last edited by jlatessa; 03/12/14 12:36 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
