Re: B/ RB rear main seals, that don't leak
[Re: 71yelladustr]
#1585934
03/01/14 04:15 PM
03/01/14 04:15 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,675 Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
roadhazard
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,675
Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
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Quote:
If its knurled where the seal goes you are going to have a hard time sealing it with a rubber type seal. I ran into this with my 440. I put 2 rubber type seals in mine and both leaked. So I ended up getting a old school rope seal and the leak is gone. I used a Victor-Reniez from Autozone. Do a search on this issue and you will see where many have had problems sealing up their big blocks.
I disagree with that statement
With the proper surface finish and diameter, understanding it's function and attention to the proper installation procedures there will be no issues installing a quality 2 piece rubber rear main seal.
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Re:
[Re: 70satelliteguy]
#1585940
03/03/14 06:24 PM
03/03/14 06:24 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Car Quest has a rope seal kit, a Victor Reinz brand. I think the app is for a small block but it works fine
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: B/ RB rear main seals, that don't leak
[Re: roadhazard]
#1585941
03/03/14 06:31 PM
03/03/14 06:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,766 Central Valley, CA.
Quicksilver440
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,766
Central Valley, CA.
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Quote:
I disagree with that statement
With the proper surface finish and diameter, understanding it's function and attention to the proper installation procedures there will be no issues installing a quality 2 piece rubber rear main seal.
I'll bite...if the crank is knurled and meant to have a rope seal, what is the proper surface finish and diameter and how is that accomplished to insure a 2 piece rubber rear main seal doesn't leak?
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Re:
[Re: Quicksilver440]
#1585943
03/03/14 06:46 PM
03/03/14 06:46 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526 North Carolina
cjskotni
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
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It seems the aftermarket cranks seem to want to leak more as they have the more pronounced knurling then old factory ones. I had leak issues with the regular Fel-Pro rubber seals with my stroker crank. I went with the 440source billet retainer (mine was beat to hell for some reason) and their Viton crank/retainer seal. Dry as a bone over a year later.
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Re: B/ RB rear main seals, that don't leak
[Re: 71yelladustr]
#1585947
03/03/14 10:46 PM
03/03/14 10:46 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Look Several things have contributed to all the rear seal leaks in the recent past NUMBER ONE--Fel Pro rubber seals have gone from good part we used trouble free for years to an inferior part that does not even look like the old one--is a DIFFERENT size than the old one and will NOT seal like the old one--cause? maybe the tooling is worn out yadda yadda but I think it is offshore crap from company that does not give a S$%* about its customers NUMBER TWO The offshore cranks have wicked copy cat knurling with no idea in the world why it is there--what it is for or HOW to put it on correctly thus you have a ripsaw effect on any rubber seal and they leak! NUMBER THREE Some of the billet retainers made from some outfits were defective and held oil up against the seal causing a leak--there were even folks advertising those as "modified" to help this designed in defect. NUMBER FOUR Crank grinders "smoothing " up stock crank knurled areas in order to prevent the dreaded Leak which will happen for sure when you take too much off the seal diameter of a stock crank I enjoy building other brands that have good seal designs and don't cause me a PIA with rear seals. I now use the orange rubber with the BLUE side seals that are advertised on here and they seem to work well though I truly miss the asbestos side seals. There are other factors with factory seal holders that get into great detail like the spot face for the bolt heads etc etc way too much to go into and...if you are a smart builder you take that seal holder and bolt it to the bare block and Observe how the thing lines up on that block and if you have to move it to get that right--well then which way? and then you mark it with some scribe lines so you can duplicate that precise line up when a seal and a crank are present thus ensuring that the two seal halves meet just right and even then it may still leak when a customer runs it with No PCV hooked up--that very slight vacuum helps out a lot! So........................ Just my 2 cents worth, carry on
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Re: B/ RB rear main seals, that don't leak
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1585949
03/03/14 11:25 PM
03/03/14 11:25 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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and....one more little note Some of the "rope" seals out there right now come all powdered up with a graphite looking powder and Guess What? They install DRY--wet one with some oil and $%#@*&% You have an oil leak anyway. That info is also not included with some of these seals so you may not be to blame when the gusher starts. Again I feel like the main issue is with crappy Fel Pro seals that are a shadow of the former part quality--Go with RoadHazzards premium part and hope for the best
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Re: B/ RB rear main seals, that don't leak
[Re: roadhazard]
#1585950
03/04/14 12:43 AM
03/04/14 12:43 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,973 MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,973
MI, usa
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Quote:
Not only have I used and tested this stuff personally I sell it to many top engine builders.
http://www.superformanceproducts.com/
I certainly hope whoever turned the crankshaft for you didn't take .010" off the rear seal surface!
I used Superformance gaskets and rear seal for my 572. Aftermarket crank with a stock retainer. My motor is completely dry. No weepage. Nice product. Doug
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