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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1577539
11/19/14 10:18 AM
11/19/14 10:18 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
AlexP
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
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Quote:
This thread is very inspiring. Too bad I'm in the middle of a stroker build.
Just have a stock 18 spline transmission going in? I searched the thread, but didn't see that info.
I'm going to run a 23 spline for now. I don't feel that I will break the trans, because I purposely put a basic clutch in. It's going to be a hard 1000 miles to break the car in...no WOT, downshifts...man.
T56 or a Passon 5 speed will be a hard choice later.
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Uhcoog1]
#1577544
11/20/14 06:13 AM
11/20/14 06:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
Moparmal
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
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Factory rockers, push rods and valve springs. Lifters supplied by Sharandon that my mate converted to a solid by removing the plunger..gauging the plunger depth and inserting a shim instead of the spring. We re-used the compressed head gasket that was taken from the un-started motor. Cam was ground on a 110 lsa at Stu from Inertias suggestion - still not sure if that was a smart thing to do.... Cam was degreed and went in at 114. You know the rest on that score..... P-V was .068th on the intake side, .124th exhaust. Il say it again - the p-v I can live with....but the ICL these install at is not friendly to carb induction. Id be VERY interested in hearing what Alex cam actually installed at..... Or did you degree it already with a multi keyway?  
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Moparmal]
#1577545
11/23/14 11:59 PM
11/23/14 11:59 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
AlexP
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
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I did some odds and ends today. I got my z-bar properly installed, linkage spring in place for clutch fork, and I need to get the linkage to the pedals back in with the right boot. I also installed the catch can by Billet Tech (a must for any hemi, or a Pan evac) I fixed my torsion bars kinda, but the CAP Tubular UCA's need to go. Too much adjustment for my tastes. Factory Uppers with the Problem solver bushings will keep me going for a while. I need to play with ride height once the new wheel and tire combo is in. It seems too low, but I've driven stupid low cars daily...doesn't scare me but I don't want to tear the headers apart. I also tried fitting my cooling system, but the C-body radiator is too huge for the hoses I've got. I tried the 1.75 to 1.5" adapter for the bottom hose, but I'm going to have to shorten all the hoses or notch the K-frame for it to clear. I dont want to do the second one, so I may end up with this radiator. The curve of the bottom hose is too close to the k-frame with the silicone adapter. THIS ON EBAY.  Some pics from today...  Ride height (First time on ground since the hemi install) It's stupid low.  Lower radiator hose issue. It sits too far back due to the radiator being both thick and offset too far back. (I knew this coming into it, when the car was a BB I had to buy the shorter Jaguar fan clutch)  Clutch linkage and Z-bar fit. A blessing with the TTI headers, I really was expecting to buy a Hydraulic set up.  And a little suprise. My good buddy Uhcoog1 came by to do some "data logging" today and gave some of my friends rides with his new built to the tee 6.1 based 392. The car rips and it's only 60% tuned. It's very safe on AFR, so he showed some folks what it can do. http://vid1113.photobucket.com/albums/k508/alex440/5410BFB8-A02F-41AC-B77A-43DF83A102A2.mp4I've never felt confident in an old mopar at speed or around a corner until I drove his car. It's a work of art and completely built in his garage. He deserves massive props! More people need to build their own cars.
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: AlexP]
#1577546
11/24/14 02:15 AM
11/24/14 02:15 AM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
72Swinger
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
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Give those bars 2 full turns.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Moparmal]
#1577553
11/24/14 04:35 PM
11/24/14 04:35 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723
Houston Tx
Uhcoog1
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723
Houston Tx
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Quote:
Alex - that's the Champion radiator I used. CC1643
I've been very happy with it - but one word of caution -
The inlet and outlet diameters are the reverse of the 6.1 G3 Hemi inlet outlet. (Not sure about the 5.7)
So you end up with 1.75 going to 1.5, and 1.5 going to 1.75
I ended up using two universal Gates reduction hoses 1.75 - 1.5 and another reversed the other way.
http://moparskunkwerks.wordpress.com/2013/03/25/traps-for-the-rat/
The factory hoses work fine.
My radiator is 1.5" upper, 1.75" lower (same as champion I believe)
Engine side is 1.75" upper, 1.625" lower
Copy and paste from my post on FABO:
Quote:
Upper radiator hose for passenger side neck:
Dayco C72282 - ID of 1.44 and 1.72 (for a 2006 Dodge Charger 5.7 hemi)
Gates 22940 - ID of 1.44 and 1.75
Lower radiator hose for passenger side neck:
Dayco E72225 - ID of 1.59 and 1.78 (for a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 )
Gates 23036: 20.6" length, 1.63" ID, 1.75" ID
Upper radiator hose for drivers side neck:
?? - Jeep SRT8 upper radiator hose - appears to be 1.5" radiator neck, 1.75" water pump neck
Goodyear 62968
Lower radiator hose for drivers side neck:
Dayco E72281 - 1.44 & 1.66 ID (I measured this one in the store- the water pump side was ~1.5" I think, and the radiator side was smaller) - this is for a 5.7 dodge charger
*I think a SRT8 lower radiator hose would have a larger hose ID for the radiator side. I don't know, as autozone and Rock Auto both do not have hoses for the SRT8 cars, period. Looks like you'll have to go to the dealer.]
-'02 Dodge Viper Ex-World Challenge racecar
-'73 Duster, 6.1 based 392 hilborn hemi, tko600, full floater rear 9", Hellwig custom bars, viper brakes, built for road course
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Uhcoog1]
#1577554
11/24/14 06:23 PM
11/24/14 06:23 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
AlexP
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
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Quote:
Quote:
And a little suprise. My good buddy Uhcoog1 came by to do some "data logging" today and gave some of my friends rides with his new built to the tee 6.1 based 392. The car rips and it's only 60% tuned. It's very safe on AFR, so he showed some folks what it can do.
http://vid1113.photobucket.com/albums/k508/alex440/5410BFB8-A02F-41AC-B77A-43DF83A102A2.mp4
I've never felt confident in an old mopar at speed or around a corner until I drove his car. It's a work of art and completely built in his garage. He deserves massive props! More people need to build their own cars.
Thanks for the kind words, Alex! Let's get yours running so we can start tuning yours as well.
You know me. Slow and steady gets the car done sometime before the end of the next century.
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Uhcoog1]
#1577555
11/24/14 06:45 PM
11/24/14 06:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
Moparmal
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
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UHCoog - So the factory hoses are tapered as well? Wonder why they did that? And here was me thinking they'd got the radiator all wrong  I better edit my blog as well......  ops: Ah well....makes it easy for you guys - unfo we couldn't get the factory hoses over here without paying stupid high dealer costs.... So alls well I guess.. 
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: Uhcoog1]
#1577557
11/26/14 10:24 PM
11/26/14 10:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
AlexP
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
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I took off work today due to the obscene amount of hours I've worked this month (no complaints...just tired) and I got a bunch done on the car! I mounted the EFI box on the area directly beneath my factory AC box. It's really a perfect fit and the box is very well sized. I see the point in his sliding bracket design. I really like it.  I can have the ECU in and out in under a few minutes.  I tried my best to hide the wires. This is easier by far in a B-body than wades A-body...I really didn't want to have to run the 2" holesaw thorough my firewall. I'm going to further protect the wires in the fender well. I was initially worried about a blow out of a tire killing the wiring harness, but if that happens I've already got a ton of problems.  The harness laid out well in the engine bay. Not a problem worth mentioning. The connectors are OEM quality and the routing is very logical. I know agree with Emil's idea of resheathing the harness, but I could easily remove the whole harness at a later date.  I'm going to be able to use my C-body 440 Police radiator without issue. I simply trimmed down the 1.5" to 1.75" silicone adapter and cut a 1.5" U bend down in the curve and made it work for my lower hose. It clears the K-frame by about an inch and stays away from all critical items. I wan't to go over all the ends with T-bolt clamps. I hate worm gear clamps.  I also did a test fit of the 18x9" mustang wheels I picked up for $69 each. They'll need the hub opened up a bit, but the offset looks good and they'll clear the tie rod end.   Now I need something bigger than 11.75" brakes.  On a semi related note...Can someone tell me what goes in this hole? I can't remember for the life of me! 
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Re: Let the Hemi swap begin
[Re: AlexP]
#1577558
11/26/14 11:34 PM
11/26/14 11:34 PM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
RylisPro
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
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Awesome! Aren't B&E body engine bays/ K-frames the same dimension wise? That looks like way more room compared to a 340. Gives me ideas of how to route things 
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