Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: Russ H.]
#1575440
02/07/14 04:30 PM
02/07/14 04:30 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844 Phoenix - surface of the sun
nomore65BelvJim
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I Live Here
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Quote:
I recently read the old post about home made rust remover recipes and am wondering if there are any new developments or formula's proven to work.
Also, it seemed that a major issue with the vinegar/lemon juice/salt formula was neutralizing the acid once the parts were cleaned. Has anyone tried running newly cleaned parts through a cycle in a dishwasher. Other than a possible domestic squabble, would this be an effective way to neutralize the acidic residue?
Russ
Evaporust is also acidic. Not as much but still it is not ph neutral.
The only "major issue" seems to be with those who poo-poo the non-commercial solution. After treating the parts in the vinegar/lemon juice/salt I just rinse the pieces thouroughly in water. Drop them in a bucket of clean water and soak for a minute. Thats it. Really. No problems. Spend a lot more money on the commercial products if you want to but I make this stuff in 5 gallon buckets for under $10 and it lasts a long time.
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: nomore65BelvJim]
#1575441
02/07/14 05:31 PM
02/07/14 05:31 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060 Western New York
sixpackbee
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
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Just out of curousity what is the ratio for this solution?
1959 Bugeye Sprite 1967 Charger Black L code 1967 Coronet R/T Convert Green 440 auto bought from original owner 1968 Charger R/T Bronze 440 4 spd console AM/FM 1969 Super Bee WM21H B5 A40 D21 N96 1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Convert pilot car 1969 Hemi Road Runner RM23J D32 Omaha orange 4.10 Dana N96 N85 1970 Super Bee WM23N FE5 V1X 3.91 axle package, N96 1970 Road Runner RM21N B3 V1X D13 1971 MG Midget 1971 Road Runner RM23H GW3, A57 1972 Road Runner RM23P FY1, D21
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: sixpackbee]
#1575442
02/07/14 05:42 PM
02/07/14 05:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 371
Russ H.
OP
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OP
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Posts: 371
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Quote:
Just out of curousity what is the ratio for this solution?
Here it is.....
1/2 gallon of white vinegar 6 or 8 oz. of concentrated lemon juice 1/3 cup of table salt
Thoroughly mixed. That's all there is to it.
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: Russ H.]
#1575443
02/09/14 12:23 PM
02/09/14 12:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,545 Albany, NY
67SATisfaction
The member whose name is actually Art
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The member whose name is actually Art
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,545
Albany, NY
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Quote:
I recently read the old post about home made rust remover recipes and am wondering if there are any new developments or formula's proven to work.
Also, it seemed that a major issue with the vinegar/lemon juice/salt formula was neutralizing the acid once the parts were cleaned. Has anyone tried running newly cleaned parts through a cycle in a dishwasher. Other than a possible domestic squabble, would this be an effective way to neutralize the acidic residue?
Russ
I used the salt/vinegar (HCL acid) recipe to remove rust on my '65 Satellite project. To neutralize the acid, I used Arm&Hammer Baking Soda mixed in some water. Then used hot hot water for the final rinse, and towel-dry and compressed air dry the part.
Best, - Art
65 Satellite hardtop 361/4bbl console 727 2.76 67 Satellite convert 383/2bbl column 727 3.23 67 Lancia Fulvia Sport 1.3 Zagato. Alloy body, 1.3L V4 DOHC 4-spd 67 Lancia Fulvia Rallye 1.3. Alloy panel, 1.3L V4 DOHC 4-spd 71 Alfa Romeo GT Junior 1300 Zagato, 1.3L 4cyl DOHC hemi 5-spd 82 Alfa Romeo GTV6 2.5L SOHC hemi V6 5-spd transaxle 75 Maserati Bora US spec 4.9L DOHC hemi V8 5-spd ZF 77 Maserati Khamsin Euro spec 4.9L DOHC hemi V8 5-spd ZF 07 Aston Martin DB9 6.0L DOHC V12 6spd transaxle
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: RP's R/T's]
#1575445
02/10/14 05:33 PM
02/10/14 05:33 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844 Phoenix - surface of the sun
nomore65BelvJim
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I Live Here
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The temperature of the solution seems to have an effect. The warmer it is the faster it seems to work. I've had parts submerged soaking in it for 24-36 hours when warm(the shackle bracket above was 24-36 hrs) 48-72 hours or so when cool. I dont bother trying to spike the mix to rejuvinate it. Its so inexpensive I just dump it and make a fresh batch. If you take the time to thouroughly clean the part of dirt, grease, undercoating, etc. it cleans up faster and the solution lasts longer. I've had the paint removed by the mix on some parts like fender braces. It doesnt seem to "go bad" over time, just with use. I've used a 3-4 gallon batch for dozens of parts; spring hangers, shackles and brackets, nuts, bolts, exhaust hangers, etc. over the course of 9 months and it worked well. You will likely see sediment forming in the bottom of the bucket with a lot of use.
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: bill440rt]
#1575447
02/12/14 01:16 AM
02/12/14 01:16 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
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Definition of an acid: a solution that reacts with metals.
Vinegar and lemon juice are both weak acetic acids. Maybe they will react with iron oxide more quickly that with chrome, but the game you will be playing is this: will my rust go away before my chrome (or nickel) gets ruined?
It may be that the backside of your wheels is nickel plating on top of copper plating, and the front side is copper-nickel-chrome plating. That does not look like bare steel in the photo.
(Chrome will not plate on steel but will plate on nickel. Nickel will not plate on steel but will plate on copper. Copper will plate on steel. That's why "chrome plating" is actually copper-nickel-chrome plating.)
I would not put acid on nickel or chrome except very carefully after experimenting. Personally I would try chrome polish on the backside first. Do no harm.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: kentj340]
#1575448
02/12/14 11:29 AM
02/12/14 11:29 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,311 NJ, USA
bill440rt
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NJ, USA
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Not sure how the factory would do a 3-step plating process on the front and only a 2-step on the back? On '69-up road wheels it looks like the centers were plated first, then dropped in the hoop & welded, then the wheels were painted. In some online research I found this old thread on a BMX forum where they were restoring rusty chrome plated bike frames with oxalic acid (it's a l-o-n-g thread): http://www.vintagebmx.com/community/index.php?showtopic=4004702&st=0I'm still hesitant to drop a wheel into this solution, so that's why I'm curious about this vinegar/salt/lemon mixture. Sorry for the hijack, but this thread is perfect timing. Anyone on here use either of these solutions on chrome parts?
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Re: Rust Remover Recipe (revisited)
[Re: bill440rt]
#1575449
02/12/14 01:55 PM
02/12/14 01:55 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,908 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,908
Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
(Chrome will not plate on steel but will plate on nickel. Nickel will not plate on steel but will plate on copper. Copper will plate on steel. That's why "chrome plating" is actually copper-nickel-chrome plating.)
This is not true. Nickel will absolutely plate on steel.
The triple plate chroming of copper, nickel, chrome is only done on high end plating jobs. The copper is actually used as a filler and in the case of pitted metal it would be sanded down and replated in copper until the final copper dip showed no imperfections. Only then would it be nickel then chrome plated. The nickel is actually the coating that provides the color, the chrome is sort of like a clear coat and the color would vary with the underlying tone. If you look at early Corvettes, you'll notice the bumpers have a gold or yellow tint to them - possibly from skipping the nickel process (I've never wondered enough to find the reason why).
As I said, lower end chroming jobs will often skip the copper because its expensive and labor intensive. Not only do they have to buff the steel surface but once dipped the copper also needs to be buffed. So the copper step is skipped and the part just gets nickel and chrome.
That said, I would imagine that back in the day many production vehicle bumpers received only a nickel and chrome finish. Looking at the AMD repro bumpers, I think that's all they get too.
You can usually easily see the difference. Done properly, a triple plated piece will be perfectly smooth as the soft copper can be buffed to a finer finish whereas the harder steel will usually show the marks right through the nickel and chrome.
FWIW nickel provides a nice durable finish over steel and is something that can be done in your own shop. There are loads of you-tube videos.
With regards to the OP's wheel issue, I doubt those would be triple plated. Most likely nickel/chrome. I that solution I seriously doubt the chrome will be harmed. To remove chrome you need a strong caustic soda solution - like Drano !!
Sorry to take this off the original "rust removal" topic but some things stand to be corrected.
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