I resolved to fix this in 2014. Anyone?

Break out the hot wrench. As you know it is still under tension. I'm assuming the bolt broke off on the bottom side of the block. I'd use a small tip & gradually melt the top threads to try & release the tension gradually so I can work it out

If it is a standard dime a dozen TB, at some point just torching the TB under as little load as possible, has to be the last option, in order to disassemble and repair, correct? And maybe a time saver if the first option?

I am also assuming TB has some preload on it.

Jack it up and support the car on jack stands at the frame rail, get the brakes and backing plate out of the way, make sure the car is high enough that the lower control arm involved can swing down 90* from the car. Loosen the strut rod nut at the K memeber end and the lower control arm pivot nut. Jack the car up by the lower control arm in question to the point that all the weight is on the floor jack but just barely off your jack stand. Take the spindle loose at the upper control arm and pivto it out of the way, knock the lower ball joint and outer tie rod loose and remove the spindle. Lower the floor jack and allow the lower control arm to swing in as much as the tension will take it. Be aware that I have had them kick the jack at the end of the stroke so make sure you are in a safe position where no flesh or apint will be injured. Once it is hanging vertically it will usually be loose enough you can remove the clip and push the control arm backwards which push the torsion bar out and free so you can pull it out of the arm socket. As far as the broken bolt replace the arm. Easiest way.

Good luck and be careful.

It would be easiest to just unbolt the lower ball joint from the spindle and lower the LCA, but otherwise I concur that you should just separate the upper and lower and replace the adjuster, IF you can get the block out of the arm...

I just went through this a couple weeks ago,no blue wrench makes it harder but in my case I just took a die grinder and ground through the bolt on the top side ro release the pressure on the T-bar so that I could pull it and then the lower control arm,took that to work and torched out the rest of it.

had something similar happen to my 64 300, just as I was parking it at the house there was a loud bang and the driver's side of the car settled lower. In my case it blew the thread off the bolt and it shot out the bottom. I ended up finding a used replacement in a local Mopar only yard. The 64 300 had the adjuster on the aft end of the T bar.

If you have time and want to do it according to OSHA, then separate the lower balljoint from spindle and then cut out torsion bar bolt and the square steel retainer.

I'd put the car on a lift and carefully torch it out and let it unload. Obviously stand clear and reach with torch. Once cool, I'd put a new retainer and bolt in, lower car and adjust. Its a half hour job if that from start to finish...

Thats how most shops would handle it...imho