what is involved parts and cash,stuffing a 440 in a duster set up for s.b.?aside from engine,trans,i dont need every little detail,just some basic ideas.thanks

TTI Headers, some conversion mounts & a aftermarket radiator would be a start.

The easiest way is to use a motor plate in front...
might need a trim on the K-member to clear the pan...
I would get a set of headers in the beginning so you
can center the engine to clear things

1st. aid supplies for busted knuckles, it's a tight fit. More seriously is this going to be a street car or race car? A friend of mine had a 440 in a '72 Demon race car and it really was a PITA to work on. His car still had the inner fender panels. He used "elephant ears" to mount the engine in front. I don't remember what headers he had, but changing plugs wasn't easy. Neither was the starter. I used a hole saw on the transmission tunnel so we could reach the transmission bellhousing bolts easier. You could do this on a street car too so long as you used plastic or rubber body plugs to fill the holes and keep the water out. If it's a serious race car I would remove the inner fenders [ shear panels ] since the rollcage will more than make up for the missing panels. These cars are MUCH easier to work on with the inner fenders removed. If it's mostly a street car this isn't really practical and you'll just have to live with a really tight fit. A low deck is somewhat easier, but I believe header choice is a bit more limited. With all the stroker kits available a 408 small block would sure be a lot easier to do.

I pretty much agree with everything stated above. All good advice. I would suggest you join 'bigblockdart.com' LOTS of good info on their site.
As others have said, they are a pain to work on. I did a RB in a '68 Valiant a few years ago. All stock inner fenders, suspension/steering/etc. The TTI headers were used and fit well but a real &##$%@ to change starter. I would go with the ARE motor plate at the front. Gives more room in the header area.

Dont see what all the fuss is about I run[hooker SC 2"] fenderwells on mine,440/auto...easiest motor install and remove I have ever done..71 dart..even with the pita carbon fiber trans sheild...had a chance at going back to a 71 340 ready to bolt in and thought about it but like this set-up...to me smblks with headers are a pita in an a-body...and I run a 3" exh system

I myself will never have another A body with a big block and in chassis headers, Even in a street car
Fenderwells and a motor plate is the only way to go IMO. You can cut out the rear section of the fenderwells if you dont want to remove the entire inner fender for a street car. A little work on the headers and you can get decent front tires and ground clearance.

Been running since the mid 70s ! No way I would go back to a small block, that said there are headers that make life hard ! TTI is on, pro parts aren't bad but there is a couple plugs that are a pain ! Hole saw the trans tunnel is a good Idea for bolts ! They are not impossible but it makes it easier ! I never had to cut the K member on mine but it's a big block out of a dart ? Then again my 68 dart didn't need cut either and it's a small block k ! Low deck fits better and headers aren't a big deal ! Remember your losing an 1" deck height so they may hang lower! But if your using a raised port head it's a wash, puts it close to raised deck !

I did a 440 duster years ago. I went with a motorplate and fenderwell headers. It worked, but the sheer size of upper end of the RB block created all kinds of issues.

My :
A low-deck 451 or 470 would be a LOT easier.....

Built several R.B blocks in "a" bodies. Not that bad you will need a B.B trans ,modify an oil pan,made my own motor mounts. Headers are the problem unless you use fenderwells then plugs and starter are easy to get at but you have to cut a fair size hole out of the inner fenders to install them but tire clearance for turning becomes an issue. A couple of holes in the tunnel for the top 2 trans bolts is a must.
good luck

Really comes down to how bad to want it. I put a 440 in my Demon in 1978 with the DC K member, fenderwell headers, all I knew of at the time. Went right in no problem.

I now have CPPA headers, under chassis, bought in 1985 or so, cant remember. Mini starter goes right in, plugs are a little tight, but if you want it, it will work. No issues with valve covers, although I took the heater motor out.

For the person that doesn't know, when you open the hood and wall to wall engine, it is impressive.

Lots of good info here:
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/techindex.shtml

I went with Scumacher conversion mounts (actually have a brand new extra set thatll be forsale soon) and hooker super comps. Easy enough install, minor trimming on the Kframe for the oil pump. Not a big deal at all.

Hello I,am working on my big block Duster a 1973 . You get you a set of tti headers and a motor plate and a moroso oil pan for number one. Take your transmission mount and turn it around. Small starter and that's all you need . Mine set right in with out any thing hitting or in the way. Hope this helps you some . 1973 Pro Street Duster 440 automatic 500" big block (A REAL MOPAR MAN )

would it be a lot better with an altercation front end? i'm going to be putting an RB in my 68 cuda soon.

It all comes down to "how fast do you want to go?" If your target is 10's or slower build a small block and have a better driving car, easier to work on car, and in the long run a cheaper car. High 9's or faster I'll go with a big block on the street every time as the money spent to make a street small block go that fast (without a power adder)climbs rapidly. That's coming from a no-adder guy.

Like already mentioned, we need to know what your intending to do with the car. Even though I'm a big block guy my vote for your car would be a stroker small block with a decent set of heads, cam, and intake.

If you go big block, definitely go with a 400 based low deck, and Proparts semi-fenderwell headers are an option.

I said I'd never again build a big block a-body with underchassis headers but of course I'm doing it again right now, just because I ran across some great deals on big block stuff.

I went with an AR-Engineering motor plate and I bought some 1 3/4" B-body headers(for now) that were already in a big block low deck a-body.

I guess I dont see what all of the fuss is about with the 440 or other RB engines installed in late A-body. They are not that big of deal to do. Granted I got Hooker 2" super comp fenderwells, which IMHO, is the way to go if you are wanting it to be easy to work on. I could see how in-frame headers could be a real beotch. Plugs are not that big of a deal, The starter falls off, and the bellhousing bolts are not bad. The top 2 can be accessed from the top. The oil pan requires the same work or less to remove as a small block. The I am using reworked factory style mounts in mine with no issues. The only thing that iis really an issue, which it isnt, is I have to remove the master cylinder to get the drivers side valve cover off. With the late model aluminum master cylinder with flexible braided hoses, all I have to do is remove 2 nuts and it moves out of the way. No big deal.