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What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.

As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before

Monte

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Guess I`m not making enuff power to kill mine which is probably a blessing and 1.36 60`s are helping also I guess. Been adding up parts and prices and the 9" can get stupid expensive in a hurry so when I can I`m ordering a complete Dana-60 from Dr. Diff...........

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Not really true......lets look at some pricing. A junkyard 9" or Dana housing are easily found. 9" are everywhere and will be dirt cheap. A pass car Dana, if you find one in a bone yard, will cost more and a truck housing will be even heavier and require more work. Both will likely need to be narrowed, new perches, brackets etc. The Ford will require a back brace. So considering initial cost and work involved, the junkyard route is probably a wash on cost or in favor of Ford.

Aftermarket cost boils down to what you want and how much you are willing to spend on a housing. The S-60 housing is NOT cheap and Fords can be had from a couple hundred, to a couple thousand, just depends on what you want.

Axles are a wash.

Brakes are a wash. If you have Mopar brakes already, you can put Mopar ends on your Ford and reuse them. Again a wash.

A Dana spool is $225 and bearings are $74........Jegs prices
A 9" spool is $152 and bearings are $40.............Jegs prices

Gears a wash or in Ford favor depending on ratio desired, as Dana is VERY limited.

So at this point, the Ford is likely $100 or more cheaper, depending on what you did for a housing and gears.

Where the Ford costs more is the chunk.......BUT...not everybody needs an $1100 MW thru bolt case. You can get a Nodular Iron Strange case that will be fine for most street strip applications for $250 or the Nodular Pro Series case for $300. You will need an aluminum or Nodular pinion support for the Ford, depending on power level and these can range from less than $200 to more than $1000. Again depends on what you WANT to spend.

So at THIS point, the Ford might be a couple hundred more than the Ford.........but to me personally, the drop out center and less weight make the Ford the no-brainer choice for me. Despite what some purists think, there is no law that says a Mopar MUST have a Dana.

Monte

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This is good info...........thankxxx. Just heard that a bad azz 9" is real pricey w/the good parts and an alum. housing...........

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What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.

As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before

Monte

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Guess I`m not making enuff power to kill mine which is probably a blessing and 1.36 60`s are helping also I guess. Been adding up parts and prices and the 9" can get stupid expensive in a hurry so when I can I`m ordering a complete Dana-60 from Dr. Diff...........

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Not really true......lets look at some pricing. A junkyard 9" or Dana housing are easily found. 9" are everywhere and will be dirt cheap. A pass car Dana, if you find one in a bone yard, will cost more and a truck housing will be even heavier and require more work. Both will likely need to be narrowed, new perches, brackets etc. The Ford will require a back brace. So considering initial cost and work involved, the junkyard route is probably a wash on cost or in favor of Ford.

Aftermarket cost boils down to what you want and how much you are willing to spend on a housing. The S-60 housing is NOT cheap and Fords can be had from a couple hundred, to a couple thousand, just depends on what you want.

Axles are a wash.

Brakes are a wash. If you have Mopar brakes already, you can put Mopar ends on your Ford and reuse them. Again a wash.

A Dana spool is $225 and bearings are $74........Jegs prices
A 9" spool is $152 and bearings are $40.............Jegs prices

Gears a wash or in Ford favor depending on ratio desired, as Dana is VERY limited.

So at this point, the Ford is likely $100 or more cheaper, depending on what you did for a housing and gears.

Where the Ford costs more is the chunk.......BUT...not everybody needs an $1100 MW thru bolt case. You can get a Nodular Iron Strange case that will be fine for most street strip applications for $250 or the Nodular Pro Series case for $300. You will need an aluminum or Nodular pinion support for the Ford, depending on power level and these can range from less than $200 to more than $1000. Again depends on what you WANT to spend.

So at THIS point, the Ford might be a couple hundred more than the Dana.........but to me personally, the drop out center and less weight make the Ford the no-brainer choice for me. Despite what some purists think, there is no law that says a Mopar MUST have a Dana.



Monte

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This is the truth..^^^^^^^

Plus, if you break your rear end at the track, chances are really good
that you can find a spare or parts..

Definitely not so with a Dana..

I've always used a 9" and always will..

I watched Gecker change Dana gears at the track once..

No Thank You..



Chris..

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I don't want to hurt fealings or step on toes but with his set-up IT WILL BREAK!

Any diff can break with enough abuse.

I speak from experience 3800lbs 69 Roadrunner with a 10" slick, 5 speed, Cal-Tracs, around 650lbs/ft torque. I have broke axles, bent things on a Dana 60. The 8 3/4 would have destoyed it self long, long ago.

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I wouldn't recommend an 8-3/4 to anyone but everybody knows that.

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This has been discussed by you and I before Quicktree. I'm still using one in my 67 Belvedere running low 10s. It weighs at least 3750 lbs race ready. Leaving at approx. 2000 rpm. 1.42 60 ft so I'm not beating it at the hit.
Using Mark Williams axles, spool and Richmond gears.
Like the Everready Bunny...still going.
Happy Holidays!

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what size and type of rear tire do you run?

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9x28 Hoosier bias ply Slick or M/T 9x28 bias ply Slick

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there you have it, I did the same thing with a small 9" slick many years ago. believe it or not you are not dead hooking with that tire, you get just enough slip to let the rear live. and yes you can still lift the front wheels and have a little slip. the combo works for you right now but put a 10.5 on it and watch it explode. been there done that going from a 9" to bigger tire. Monte was spot on....

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Switching to the 10.5 tires next season. I'll let you know how I do.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.

As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before

Monte

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I watched Gecker change Dana gears at the track once..

No Thank You..



Chris..

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I've seen more than one Mopar class racer swap ring and pinons in thier Dana 60s at the track rapidily, like all things to go well you need to be prepared in advance You set up the spares on the spool or posi and have the pinion bearings and preload shims on the pinion shaft, jack the car up and go for it. Definetily not as easy as a third member but not a big deal if planned in advance.

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Monte,
Just a question here. Not a challenger or agument. Was the pinion snubber to help with pinion flex? I understand that it is not a good fix, and probably limits other suspension parts from working. But was that the intention of it at the onset?

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No the snubber was to help worn out spings and had nothing
to do with helping pinion strength

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Thank you .

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No drag type 9" assembly costs less than a comparable Dana 60.

Strange S-60 Dana 60 casting with tubes and housing ends INSTALLED
TOTAL $570

Strange Nodular Iron 9" casting $329
Strange Nodular Iron Daytona pinion support $102
Strange Housing ends $69 pair
TOTAL $500 (NO HOUSING!)

You can't buy a new, assembled 9" housing for $70.

Once again, I sell complete, NEW bolt-in 35 spline S-60 assemblies with spool and chr-mo race axles for $1795. This is $621 more than a comparable Strange 9" iron third-member WITHOUT a housing and axles.

http://www.doctordiff.com/strange-60.html

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codfish

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I hope you don't have those mufflers hanging by plumbers tape...do you?

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No matter how you look at it you have to weigh out how the car will be used to see if it will hold up. Sure a street car that does not see a sticky tire it will be fine. But a car thats raced with slicks or drag radials there is a good chance something in the 8-3/4 may break sooner or later. I really want to upgrade to a Dana in my 63 but my funds are very limited right now. But the price Dr Diff has a Dana for makes me want to borrow the money and go for it. Believe it or not the 8-3/4 in my 63 is all stock other then the Detroit Locker I put in it and the 4.30 gears. I know I am running on borrowed time but I dont race my car much as I mostly drive it on the street and I dont street race. In fact I have only put 4 passes on my car in the last 2 years. Funny as back in the 80's I bracket raced a 66 Dart with a 340 and 4-speed. It had an 8-3/4 from a 68 Dart in it and I broke that rear at least 4 times between ring and pinions and carriers. I finnally went to a spool and then broke driveshafts and U-joints. It was basically a stock 833 but I launched it hard as when I let the clutch out the go pedal went to the floor all the time. It ran a best ever of 11.94 at 113 and my 63 with a stock 8-3/4 has not broke anything yet and of course its much faster and heavier but it is an auto. I have raced my 63 about 10 times since 2006 and it ran mid 11's until 2011. I have raced it 4 times with the 10 second eng in it. I dont plan to race again until I beef it up or go to a Dana. If the 8-3/4 breaks I will be going thru my trans also. Ron

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Ron, just goes to show how much harder the 4 speed is on the rear end.

I need to get a Dana under my car with the 4 speed, my stock 8 3/4 doesn't really stand a chance if I get sticky tires.

That said, an 8 3/4 is pretty strong for a factory stock rear end.

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codfish

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I hope you don't have those mufflers hanging by plumbers tape...do you?

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No matter how you look at it you have to weigh out how the car will be used to see if it will hold up. Sure a street car that does not see a sticky tire it will be fine. But a car thats raced with slicks or drag radials there is a good chance something in the 8-3/4 may break sooner or later. I really want to upgrade to a Dana in my 63 but my funds are very limited right now. But the price Dr Diff has a Dana for makes me want to borrow the money and go for it. Believe it or not the 8-3/4 in my 63 is all stock other then the Detroit Locker I put in it and the 4.30 gears. I know I am running on borrowed time but I dont race my car much as I mostly drive it on the street and I dont street race. In fact I have only put 4 passes on my car in the last 2 years. Funny as back in the 80's I bracket raced a 66 Dart with a 340 and 4-speed. It had an 8-3/4 from a 68 Dart in it and I broke that rear at least 4 times between ring and pinions and carriers. I finnally went to a spool and then broke driveshafts and U-joints. It was basically a stock 833 but I launched it hard as when I let the clutch out the go pedal went to the floor all the time. It ran a best ever of 11.94 at 113 and my 63 with a stock 8-3/4 has not broke anything yet and of course its much faster and heavier but it is an auto. I have raced my 63 about 10 times since 2006 and it ran mid 11's until 2011. I have raced it 4 times with the 10 second eng in it. I dont plan to race again until I beef it up or go to a Dana. If the 8-3/4 breaks I will be going thru my trans also. Ron

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Ron, just goes to show how much harder the 4 speed is on the rear end.

I need to get a Dana under my car with the 4 speed, my stock 8 3/4 doesn't really stand a chance if I get sticky tires.

That said, an 8 3/4 is pretty strong for a factory stock rear end.

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