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So stainless will be ok? I really don't care if it's hard to work with, I will have minimal bends anyway until I get to the engine bay area. Another question...What kind of tubing does it need to be shielded with in the bellhousing area?

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If I remember right its a 1/8" wall steel tubing to
protect the fuel line(any fuel line) in the bell housing
area to be legal

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Cool I've got some old roll cage tubing that should work then. Can the fuel line come up inside the engine bay or does it have to be outside the rail and come in?

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This is just the way I do it... I run down the frame
rail on the inside then around the rail near the
A-pillar zone and up into the wheel housing and go
through the inner fender and mount the regulator
at that point... then to the carb

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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The 1.25 turn guideline is for setting the furrel to the line during the cinching of the ring's and nut,once cinched then it don't take anywhere that much of a turn to tighten from finger tight.

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One thing to keep in mind when you go on a forum to get suggestions. Some cars are raced weekly, some are raced one or two times a year, some are show queens, and some are unfinished projects or just sit in the shop being used as a workbench. Heck some of these guys could us bamboo shoots for fuel line and it would hold up.
Keep that in mind when you make your choice.

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Ain't that the truth, no more than I have been out in the last two years I would probably be in the bamboo shoot class.

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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You DON'T use ferrules, you use flares in all cases for something as important as fuel lines!

Ferrules will leak eventually just like aluminum line will.