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I would also run a wish bone and not a diaganol/track locator. It will help keep the ladder bar and brackets from binding as you go in and out of drive ways and what not.

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Correct me if I am wrong but don't most ladder bars comes with solid rod ends, not heim joints like a 4 link? And if they are solid ends, why would you need the wish bone? With the solid rod ends the rear won't pitch rotate, no? I'd agree that with heim joints you could benefit from a wish bone but with solid ends wouldn't a diagonal link be all you need?

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I would also run a wish bone and not a diaganol/track locator. It will help keep the ladder bar and brackets from binding as you go in and out of drive ways and what not.

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Correct me if I am wrong but don't most ladder bars comes with solid rod ends, not heim joints like a 4 link? And if they are solid ends, why would you need the wish bone? With the solid rod ends the rear won't pitch rotate, no? I'd agree that with heim joints you could benefit from a wish bone but with solid ends wouldn't a diagonal link be all you need?

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As I keep turning up the boost I can't help but notice that my 40yr old springs are starting to loose their bounce. I've lost ride height on the pass. side and even with the rear sway bar preloaded, the body still rolls alittle to that side. My question is, from a cost and streetablilty standpoint, which would be the best route to go, caltracs and new leafs or ladder bars? This car is 90% street but is driven hard an sees alot of stoplight challenges

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I'd keep the weak springs and add Caltracs and a good shock...

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As I keep turning up the boost I can't help but notice that my 40yr old springs are starting to loose their bounce. I've lost ride height on the pass. side and even with the rear sway bar preloaded, the body still rolls alittle to that side. My question is, from a cost and streetablilty standpoint, which would be the best route to go, caltracs and new leafs or ladder bars? This car is 90% street but is driven hard an sees alot of stoplight challenges

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I'd keep the weak springs and add Caltracs and a good shock...

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I would also run a wish bone and not a diaganol/track locator. It will help keep the ladder bar and brackets from binding as you go in and out of drive ways and what not.

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Correct me if I am wrong but don't most ladder bars comes with solid rod ends, not heim joints like a 4 link? And if they are solid ends, why would you need the wish bone? With the solid rod ends the rear won't pitch rotate, no? I'd agree that with heim joints you could benefit from a wish bone but with solid ends wouldn't a diagonal link be all you need?

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With just solid rod ends you will bend those front
mounts if you go into any corner fairly hard... there
is enough side load and leverage to bend them and
then the tire is into the fender... you need a lateral
bar of some type... I have ladder bars in my Rampage
with a diagonal link(I've used this set up in multiple
street cars)... one thing for the street... you should
brace the lower ladder bar mount near the hole where the
diagonal bar mounts... otherwise it will flex and break
If you want a real nice set up for the street.. run
a Watts Link

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I would also run a wish bone and not a diaganol/track locator. It will help keep the ladder bar and brackets from binding as you go in and out of drive ways and what not.

---

Correct me if I am wrong but don't most ladder bars comes with solid rod ends, not heim joints like a 4 link? And if they are solid ends, why would you need the wish bone? With the solid rod ends the rear won't pitch rotate, no? I'd agree that with heim joints you could benefit from a wish bone but with solid ends wouldn't a diagonal link be all you need?

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With just solid rod ends you will bend those front
mounts if you go into any corner fairly hard... there
is enough side load and leverage to bend them and
then the tire is into the fender... you need a lateral
bar of some type... I have ladder bars in my Rampage
with a diagonal link(I've used this set up in multiple
street cars)... one thing for the street... you should
brace the lower ladder bar mount near the hole where the
diagonal bar mounts... otherwise it will flex and break
If you want a real nice set up for the street.. run
a Watts Link

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I would also run a wish bone and not a diaganol/track locator. It will help keep the ladder bar and brackets from binding as you go in and out of drive ways and what not.

---

Correct me if I am wrong but don't most ladder bars comes with solid rod ends, not heim joints like a 4 link? And if they are solid ends, why would you need the wish bone? With the solid rod ends the rear won't pitch rotate, no? I'd agree that with heim joints you could benefit from a wish bone but with solid ends wouldn't a diagonal link be all you need?

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With just solid rod ends you will bend those front
mounts if you go into any corner fairly hard... there
is enough side load and leverage to bend them and
then the tire is into the fender... you need a lateral
bar of some type... I have ladder bars in my Rampage
with a diagonal link(I've used this set up in multiple
street cars)... one thing for the street... you should
brace the lower ladder bar mount near the hole where the
diagonal bar mounts... otherwise it will flex and break
If you want a real nice set up for the street.. run
a Watts Link

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To add one thing to what Mike suggests, be sure and box the rear brackets on the rear end housing. If you get the car sideways, they can lay over and cause issues.

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Wow!! Gonna run out & take another look at mine.

Mine is race only but Like a buddy told me "Ladder Bar It & Be Done With It" Mine now is very consistant

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I'm staying with the cal-trac mono split spring and now in search mode for that "good shock"

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AFCOS.........That`s probably going to be my next investment when I start racing again and Calvert can hook you up or I`m sure some on here can also. After reading about all of the extra work to make ladder bars work on the street I`d go Cal-Tracs w/the longer ft. segment w/good shocks and be done with it but hey, I`m lazy I guess.........

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I found a set of ladders cheap and somewhere I have a floater kit I bought along the way if I can find it.

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Ladder bars and floater will work but you still need
a decent set of shocks... the only problem with the
ladder bar and leafs is the added weight... pick up
a set of leaf springs vs a pair of coil over springs

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What about ladders and leafs? Looks cheaper than Caltracs lol

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Thats what I had and worked good up until I got to the low 10's and even with new slicks and adjustable shocks my 60 foot times would vary a tenth from run to run. Besides going away from leafs you cut out a bunch of weight.