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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: feets]
#1513441
10/09/13 06:45 PM
10/09/13 06:45 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
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There are no secrets in overheating issues.You can probably diagnose that thing in less than 10 minutes with a temp gun.
Not if it's a tuning problem
You can diagnose that with a temp gun too. The entire cooling system will heat up properly but won't level out. Temp will drop across the radiator and there will be no crazy hot spots on the cooling system but the exhaust manifolds (and heat crossover if used) will be scorching hot.
That's when you start looking at the tune.
true! But he will have to drive the car more than 10 minutes to do that. 
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: MASSMOPAR]
#1513442
10/09/13 11:53 PM
10/09/13 11:53 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,167
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,167
Mass
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Quote:
I got this rebuilt 440 hp .030 engine ---
Fires up runs great. BUT under normal
driving conditions she overheats - temp goes thru the roof.
Tried changing the water pump and the thermostat had no effect.
The radiator is hot on the bottom and cold at the top.
TOOK the thermostat completely out and temp stays at 170 degrees -
but I know that is not the correct solution.
What is going on?  
even if the "tune" of the ignition/carb are "off" somewhat, the "issue" with overheating with/without the thermostat opens the door for a cracked block/head, bad head gasket....simple test won't cost you anything other than time, with the thermostat correctly installed, I'd recommend you also drill an 1/8" bleed hole in the thermostats base to rid the system of trapped air when filling the system,....fill the system, when installing the radiator cap, close it fully, then back it off (open) so that it's still somewhat locked on the tangs, but not sealed/spring loaded on the seat/seal, enough to allow pressure, and some fluid to escape, start the car, heat it up to operating temp, a few revs will clear out and overflow the radiator a little until a satifactory running level is established, then drive the car (sanely) see if it overheats, if not....time for head gaskets, or casting replacements (head/s block)... 
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: feets]
#1513444
10/10/13 12:18 PM
10/10/13 12:18 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,167
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,167
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
How in the hell do you know when your driving down the road that the lower hose is not collapsing? if it don't have a spring inside the lower hose?. If it doesn't have a spring than that's the part of the problem!!! 
Because you rev the engine and observe the lower hose!!!
The hot rod was sucking the lower hose closed. I couldn't see it happen. However, when I revved the engine and held onto the hose I could feel the bend getting sucked flat on the back side.
I sacrificed a coat hanger and fixed the problem. It'll hold up as long as you don't run straight water.
Gee...I didn't see the part where he has no spring in the lower hose!  ....I assumed the basics were "done", how can anybody install a lower hose without a spring?...esp new hoses today, there so thinwall/cheap
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1513445
10/10/13 12:46 PM
10/10/13 12:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,338
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,338
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
How in the hell do you know when your driving down the road that the lower hose is not collapsing? if it don't have a spring inside the lower hose?. If it doesn't have a spring than that's the part of the problem!!!
Because you rev the engine and observe the lower hose!!!
The hot rod was sucking the lower hose closed. I couldn't see it happen. However, when I revved the engine and held onto the hose I could feel the bend getting sucked flat on the back side.
I sacrificed a coat hanger and fixed the problem. It'll hold up as long as you don't run straight water.
Gee...I didn't see the part where he has no spring in the lower hose! ....I assumed the basics were "done", how can anybody install a lower hose without a spring?...esp new hoses today, there so thinwall/cheap
Buying and installing a spring would cut into the bottom line
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: feets]
#1513446
10/10/13 01:06 PM
10/10/13 01:06 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
|
Quote:
Quote:
How in the hell do you know when your driving down the road that the lower hose is not collapsing? if it don't have a spring inside the lower hose?. If it doesn't have a spring than that's the part of the problem!!!
Because you rev the engine and observe the lower hose!!!
The hot rod was sucking the lower hose closed. I couldn't see it happen. However, when I revved the engine and held onto the hose I could feel the bend getting sucked flat on the back side.
I sacrificed a coat hanger and fixed the problem. It'll hold up as long as you don't run straight water.
Not the same as driving it under load. Why would you even install it the first time without a spring feets? 
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: JohnRR]
#1513447
10/10/13 01:09 PM
10/10/13 01:09 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
How in the hell do you know when your driving down the road that the lower hose is not collapsing? if it don't have a spring inside the lower hose?. If it doesn't have a spring than that's the part of the problem!!!
Because you rev the engine and observe the lower hose!!!
The hot rod was sucking the lower hose closed. I couldn't see it happen. However, when I revved the engine and held onto the hose I could feel the bend getting sucked flat on the back side.
I sacrificed a coat hanger and fixed the problem. It'll hold up as long as you don't run straight water.
Gee...I didn't see the part where he has no spring in the lower hose! ....I assumed the basics were "done", how can anybody install a lower hose without a spring?...esp new hoses today, there so thinwall/cheap
Buying and installing a spring would cut into the bottom line
So do we know for fact that the OP is going to "flip" the car?
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: feets]
#1513450
10/10/13 06:23 PM
10/10/13 06:23 PM
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
Copper Dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
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The part I find most confusing is the lower(inlet) section of the rad gets very hot all the way to the water pump and the upper (outlet) section is cool? I think that's the conundrum! That just doesn't make any sense unless there's no water/coolant in the upper section of the radiator when you are checking. On another note, I too had a timing issue. A bad vacuum advance canister on the distributor was causing the engine to produce excessive heat and would tend to overheat after cruising a few miles. 
Common sense, the least common of all the senses.
Mom.
For fear of ridicule, society stifles creativity.
Ricky Valdes
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1513452
10/12/13 12:11 PM
10/12/13 12:11 PM
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
Copper Dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
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Not a vacuum leak/lean issue but more of a too retarded timing issue, I'm not certain how retarded timing causes that much heat. The spring should be the same diameter as the inside of the hose and yes, ends bent in to avoid punctures. IMO the lower hose on a closed/sealed coolant system shouldn't collapse unless you have a considerable restriction.
Common sense, the least common of all the senses.
Mom.
For fear of ridicule, society stifles creativity.
Ricky Valdes
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Re: REBUILT 440 ENGINE overheats - HELP.
[Re: Copper Dart]
#1513453
10/12/13 12:43 PM
10/12/13 12:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,338
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,338
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
Not a vacuum leak/lean issue but more of a too retarded timing issue, I'm not certain how retarded timing causes that much heat.
I can't explain it but it is an issue , really shows it's ugly head when one is breaking in a cam with not enough advance. Headers tubes were turning red just off the heads on the last one I did , crank the timing up to 35 still at the same 2000 rpm and they stopped glowing red.
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