Hi!

I have this new Milodon oil pump but it has no instruction sheets. I bought it as a package deal with some other race parts.

Its old, its been on a shelf for quite a bit but it is new.

I know C and D are the inlets that go to the oil pickup.

What about A and B? I know those are for the oil filter but which one is the send and which the return?

Also what is E for???

2nd pic

Didn't dig into these, but might have what you need...
MIlodon Instruction Manuals

A would be out to the filter. B is the inlet back to the main galley. That small extra was added. It is in common with the main galley, so it could be a feed to something external(turbo/ supercharger, oil accumulator, or as some guys would do, plumb it to the oil feed taps on the rear of the block)
Or it could be an access to bleed the miserable thing everytime it looses its prime

That cover is for a remote oil filter.

Do not torque that pump to factory specs. It will bind the gears and shear the shaft. Use no more than 12 inch pounds of torque when you install the pump. I know that isn't a lot but it works and the pump will not leak. Don't ask how I know this.

thanks for the replies!!!

Thanks for the tip on how to torque it too!!!

That's what I run. You now have the info you need, good luck.

Oil Pump,Plug on bottom for accumulator

Hey guys....

I dissambled my pump to check out its condition (its new, but seems it has been bouncing around on a shop, and used for mockups, etc but never actually run) and this is what I found on the inside.

Seems it has been dissassembled and inside a bucket and tossed aroud and the pump rotor is nicked....and also the pump plate cover has a nick.

Would you guys say this makes it unuseable or would it still be good?

pics:

2 closeup of the nick

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11 and last.

Also, I see there is a DOT and an arrow there....does it make a difference how is this assembled or you just drop it into place??? Why the marks???

You can get the new gerotor set. That is not a new pump. Even I wouldn't run that with that gear set in there... and I've been known to run some real scrap at times.

On the cover I'd run a fine flat file across the surface to take off any burr - but that "dent" is not anywhere that will cause pressure loss.

Likewise with the rotor and stator, I'd clean it up and make sure they don't bind but otherwise I'd run those parts with no fears.

Clean up the ding in the pump body also. The pump body is just a housing for the stator to rotate in, it could be full of dings but as long as the stator has the proper clearance and rotates freely it won't affect performance of the pump.

Let me start by saying, I've had my share of milodon pump issues. If you want a pump that is trouble free, what you need to do is get a new gear set, and have the cover resurfaced and re-coated. I see rotational marks in the cover. That is how I can say this is not a new pump. Those minor scratches combined with the rounded edges of the gear set will have you losing the pump prime.
If you don't do these things, Than I would suggest teflon coated main and rod bearings. That way, on cold start the motor can run for a few minutes without oil pressure while you are waiting for the pump to come back to life.

I would think the cover is fine as long as that very small nick doesnt have any burrs????

And yes, for peace of mind I will get a new rotor and stator----I dont they they will be expensive and it would be the way to go if I plan on running this thing on a rebuilt engine....

the pump feels tight and there is no play between the moving parts...

Still I dont think it's junk and should be tossed away!!!