I just pulled the 79 300 out of the weeds to use for a winter beater. The fronts were flat, so I put on a pair of 16" wheels with winter tires from a 2000 Intrepid. Seemed like a good fit, but as I got it to roll, the edge of the wheel catches the upper control arm. It looks like a 1/4 to 3/8 spacer would solve this problem. Studs seem long enough, but could swap to 3" or something if needed. I know they would need the center hole to match the hub...just wondering where to get, and/or if this is a feasible idea.

I have these 16's with 4 good winter tires, so it will save me buying a full set of tires.

Ebay. Go for the logical answer.

Well, went to ebay first, then read threads here, then kijiji, then jegs etc,. and came up nada.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p...0&_from=R40

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-...Order=Ascending

Choose your needs

use the right wheels,,, much safer...

It's knee-jerk reaction time!

Any time someone mentions spacers this comes up.

Running the "proper wheel" may be much safer, but much safer than what? Much safer than safe enough? It costs a lot more but what are the benefits if the beginning condition is "safe enough"?

Where does this "proper wheel" idea stop?

I can make a decent case that running a wheel with a different offset or even a different diameter or width reduces the factor of safety of the spindle. Yet we do it all the time, as long as no spacers are used. But as soon as the spacer enters the picture it's taboo.

Circle track racers use spacers. I see them advertised all the time. I use a 5/16" adapter to run Dodge wheels on my Suburban. I've put 25,000+ miles on this setup and haven't had a single problem with it, yet it is "unsafe".

So IMHO use the spacers and enjoy the increased safety of decent tires this winter!

R.

I believe the Intrepid uses a metric bolt pattern. 1.5 mm or so different from the 70's standard. Close but not the same. My favorite tire store usually has used tires on hand... maybe find a set of those to get her rolling with the original wheels.

Translate inchs to MMs and you will find there are sizes to fit most anything.

Check with member "Jerry", he could make you some billet aluminum ones.

I don't use spacers myself (I just have my wheels built to the correct backspacing), but if you had too, at least use proper billet ones and not those cheap china cast ones. (which I have seen broken)

4.5" = 114.3 mm
The metric equivalent is 115 mm.
115 - 114.3 = 0.7mm, this is the diametral difference. The radial difference is 0.7 / 2 or 0.35mm which multiplied by the inch equivalent of a mm, 0.03937", equals
0.03937 x 0.35 = 0.0138"

14 thousandths of an inch! OMG!!!!!

If this causes a problem with the wheel studs, you'd better crush the car.

Do it.

R.

hahahaha yes the difference is extremely minimal for the studs, and not a problem. I do have a set of cop wheels here with a pretty aggressive light truck tire tread on my camper van, maybe I will just use those.

I have opened a can of worms here anyhow, pedal was solid, and you could see the calipers appeared seized...pretty bad. So I wheeled it in, pulled it all as I had pads and calipers in the basement... figured I want good brakes on a winter car...swapped them, but it is still stuck when I went to bleed. pushed hard, bang, to the floor and no return. UGH. M/C maybe? I have a new one here. going to see when I have an assistant in an hour or so. Going to look at the rears while I wait.

We can definitely hook you up with custom hub centric spacers

^ I will email if that is the route I decide to go.

I have found that custom hubcentric spacers don't cost a lot less than new wheels!

To throw another log on the fire, REGARDLESS of what NHRA says, a nut of the correct grade will develop the full strength of a bolt with TWO THREADS engaged.

That's straight out of the Machine Design textbook.

It's always nice to go beyond absolute minimum for anything, except for weight in a racecar. But let's not throw the baby out with the bathwater! In our quest for safety we usually go too far, while at the same time missing completely something of vital importance.

As in my imaginary construct of this case: Do we insist that the OP go through winter on tires that are legal for the road but not optimum for winter driving? Or do we allow him to reduce the factor of safety from 4 to 3 and use tires that will keep him safer?

I can picture it now, the car slides off the road BUT the lugs were never stressed more than 1/4 of yield strength! WINNER!

How ironic.

R.