Just removed a Mcleod Borg and beck clutch in my 67 B Body due to a broken pressure plate spring. I decided to go with a Center force dual friction. After installling it, I removed the overcenter spring under the dash as instructed by the clutch manufacturer. The clutch works fine and the trans shifts smoothly, but the feel of this clutch is strange. It is not much easier to depress than the Mcleod, but whats annoying is how it releases. When you start to release it, it gets to a certain point, just about where it begins to grab, and becomes somewhat difficult to hold almost forcing you to release it the rest of the way rather quickly which causes the car to jerk obviously. It seems to have a much smaller window of "slippage" if that makes any sense.
The Zbar is the correct one and is new as well as all of its components. Greased and installed correctly. The spring on the clutch fork does hold the clutch pedal up completely when released. I have plenty of free play and the trans shifts smoothly.
Not sure where to go from here. Almost wonder if I should put the overcenter spring back in??? Will that make it worse??

How far down do you push the pedal ? Diaphragm clucthes do not like to be pushed overcenter.

It does not go the floor, but its probably an inch or so up from it. I did notice that the adjustment is way different on the adjusting rod than the 3 finger was. On the three finger, the adjusting nut was almost at the end of the rod, where with this one, its much closer to the middle.

Don't know but we've installed many C/F's over the years. They are the first choice here. never any issues like your describing ??? Maybe call their tech line tomorrow????

I have the same problem with my Center Force Dual Friction in my Road Runner. I was told I have to put a clutch pedal "stop" to prevent the diaphragm from going over center. Unfortunately, that means the pedal will have to stop just after the clutch releases. To me, this will make it very difficult to drive. So, I am living with the crappy feel and jerky starts until I can afford a Mcleod!

Just my

Try the "feeler gauge" method of adjusting the clutch, put a stop on the pedal so that the disc clearance is no more than .060".

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Just removed a Mcleod Borg and beck clutch in my 67 B Body due to a broken pressure plate spring. I decided to go with a Center force dual friction. After installling it, I removed the overcenter spring under the dash as instructed by the clutch manufacturer. The clutch works fine and the trans shifts smoothly, but the feel of this clutch is strange. It is not much easier to depress than the Mcleod, but whats annoying is how it releases. When you start to release it, it gets to a certain point, just about where it begins to grab, and becomes somewhat difficult to hold almost forcing you to release it the rest of the way rather quickly which causes the car to jerk obviously. It seems to have a much smaller window of "slippage" if that makes any sense.
The Zbar is the correct one and is new as well as all of its components. Greased and installed correctly. The spring on the clutch fork does hold the clutch pedal up completely when released. I have plenty of free play and the trans shifts smoothly.
Not sure where to go from here. Almost wonder if I should put the overcenter spring back in??? Will that make it worse??

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The CFDF is a great buy and a good setup. I've run this combo for many years. It does have an "on-off" feel. You just have to drive it and get used to it. After a bit of driving, you'll grow to love it.

Thanks to all for your responses. I will put some more miles on it before I do anything. I will try setting the air gap at .060 and see what that is like. You are correct about it having an "ON / OFF " Feel for sure.

thanks again.

Please post an update. I need to purchase a clutch assembly for my 68 Coronet R/T in the very near future and have been reading as much as I can about the options available.

Center Force seems to be a love/hate relationship with many MOPAR guys. Any thoughts on Hayes or Ram clutch assemblies?

I have had just about every clutch out there EXCEPT Centerforce. I actually have a new Centerforce that I was going to try this year but I decided to keep my Hays Mark XII race clutch in the car til after the Norwalk stick race.
Gus

On off feel?
Put mine in ten years ago and never noticed that,just got the car back with the same clutch in it and it drives just fine.

My CF has been in 12 years.Its one great setup.You do have to get used to it.Mine still hooks like the day it was installed.Rocky

I always had a Borg and Beck style clutch in my roadrunner but changed it to a dual friction this past spring. The dual friction does feel different. Like said before it feels like it's on/off. Much less slipping. After a little getting used to, I love it.

Clutches LOVE HATE relationship. LOL
If you are revving it some or a lot take off or launch it will fight you to release due to the inertia weights doing there job.
One thing I did to help with that feel, was to add in an additional motor mount like the toque rod in the magazines or build my own mounts for less engine movement. I found that the deflection of the stock motor mounts changed the clutch engagement or disengagement significantly with the CFDF clutches.

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If you are revving it some or a lot take off or launch it will fight you to release due to the inertia weights doing there job.

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Not mine.... As stated, I've been running the CFDF for allot of years. My 2 step is set anywhere from 4800-6000 and the clutch comes out quick and hard. I shift above 6300rpm consistently with no such issue.

I've posted on this topic before, but I suppose since it's not in the archives it's bound to come up again from time to time. It is NOT necessary to remove the overcenter spring when installing a diaphragm clutch IF you also install a positive pedal stop. A diaphragm clutch spring is basically a big Belleville washer. It is possible to over center one and then the clutch will hang up. If you do choose to remove the factory overcenter spring two things will happen. First the clutch pedal effort will feel similar to that of a Borg & Beck with the spring in place. Second you will have to fabricate some sort of return spring to keep the throw out bearing from constantly riding on the clutch fingers when the clutch is released. Personally I think it's easier to use the factory spring since it's already there and it makes for a nice light pedal similar to most modern cars. I make an adjustable stop for my own car. I simply weld a connecting nut from the hardware store to the pedal about two inches or so above the pedal pad and screw in a bolt with the head facing the firewall. Use a jam nut to keep it in place when you adjust it. You need to adjust the bolt so you have about an inch or so of travel past full release. All of this should cost roughly $2.00. As for the on/off feel the OP refers to, I don't think it's all that surprising since he has the dual friction disc and Centerforce unlike McCleod or Sachs uses centrifugal weights to apply extra force to the disc. If he had a full organic disc it would probably have a smoother more progressive feel.

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I've posted on this topic before, but I suppose since it's not in the archives it's bound to come up again from time to time. It is NOT necessary to remove the overcenter spring when installing a diaphragm clutch IF you also install a positive pedal stop. A diaphragm clutch spring is basically a big Belleville washer. It is possible to over center one and then the clutch will hang up. If you do choose to remove the factory overcenter spring two things will happen. First the clutch pedal effort will feel similar to that of a Borg & Beck with the spring in place. Second you will have to fabricate some sort of return spring to keep the throw out bearing from constantly riding on the clutch fingers when the clutch is released. Personally I think it's easier to use the factory spring since it's already there and it makes for a nice light pedal similar to most modern cars. I make an adjustable stop for my own car. I simply weld a connecting nut from the hardware store to the pedal about two inches or so above the pedal pad and screw in a bolt with the head facing the firewall. Use a jam nut to keep it in place when you adjust it. You need to adjust the bolt so you have about an inch or so of travel past full release. All of this should cost roughly $2.00. As for the on/off feel the OP refers to, I don't think it's all that surprising since he has the dual friction disc and Centerforce unlike McCleod or Sachs uses centrifugal weights to apply extra force to the disc. If he had a full organic disc it would probably have a smoother more progressive feel.

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With so many using the Centerforce dualfriction, some having issues and more not having any issues, I have to wonder if those having issues are doing something different and maybe wrong as compared to those that are NOT having issues. Personally I have found that doing as Centerforce recommends works best. Remove the over center spring and install a return spring at the bell housing. No pedal stop is recommended and I personally don't use one.
I have to wonder again, how installing the same clutch, in the same type of car, can have different results?????