Getting back into wanting to get my car running again. Need new shaft and wondering between the 2. I am pushing more towards the Milodon because feel safer about it than something Mopar may have had done. Am I just worried about it or go towards the Milodon like I feel safer about? Engine is 440 with 8-71 blower and solid lifters on it running 20-50w oil in it. I shift at 6,000 rpms. Street driven but I like to run it hard when I do a lot of times.

Thanks for help on this

With the solid lifter cam I would use the Mopar stock ones like I have out of OEM motors, you could buy a new Mopar Hi Po one that is pinned if that will make you feel better The motor(cam gear) doesn't know that the blower is putting any additional strain on the oil pump drive(it isn't ) Are you using a stock type oiling system or a milidon external oiling pickup system? If so and it is a dual line with the adapter plate between the pump and the block you need the longer Milidon shaft with the longer shaft to drive that type pump

Cab

I think I snapped the hex off the end of the shaft. Running internal oiling setup. Been sitting last 2 years and didn't feel like opening it to check when I lost oil pressure on the engine. That is why want the aftermarket one and not a stocker because I know it will happen again. I didn't add it when I put the blower on figuring it would be okay. It wasn't. No matter how many times I read on here about guys saying they changed to aftermarket one when you push on them hard. I didn't and payed for it.

I never seen or heard of a stock BB Mopar oil pump drive snapping off unless something is binding the oil pump up Take the pump off and disassemble it to find why the first one broke I ran the stock ones in 426 Street Hemi with 50 Wt oil starting and running them in 20 F weather, splita stock type oil filter, never twisted a stock shaft off, never I have twisted a Mopar Hi Po shaft off after a piece of aluminum from the rear main seal (I used to long of oil pan bolts and broke a piece out of the rear main seal holder ) got suck up into the oil pump The stock oil pump drive will drive the oil pump all day lomg under severe RPM conditions with hot or cold oil your choice so use the one you feel the best with

Cab

Finally got around to working on it. You were right and the oil pump shaft was fine. Went to put the aftermarket one in I bought and found the following.Here is what I found. I went from 915 heads to 452 heads for the open chambers to lower compression down because of the blower setup. Push rods are the originals I had and never had issues with them. Installed Harland Sharp 1.5 rocker system at same time heads were installed. Cam is the original one and running lifts of .587 on intake and .600 on exhaust measured at the valve. No coil bind anywhere and still have a lot of room before it even thinks of getting close to coil bind. Push rod to ball on rocker arm has no binding or getting close anywhere on them. Stumped on this and trying to figure on where to go or what caused it. Figuring on just buying push rod kit and building them to fit each valve location. Any input on maybe what to look for or maybe what caused it? Note: all damaged ones are on the exhaust side. Two lifters were spit out from their bores also and lost engine oil when it happened. Thanks.

Push rods too long?

Wrong size cup/ball combo

5/16 ball and cup assemblies. Only did this on the exhaust ones. That is what is odd.

Once you have verified everything is the right size (length and correct cup size) then you may want to look and see that enough oil is getting to the pushrod cup. If the pushrod is too long the cup can shield the flow of oil depending on the location of the oil hole.
Typically a lack of oil will turn the ball & cup black. If the pushrod cups are not hardened properly they could fail in the manner yours did before they turn black.
Did you restrict the oil passages to the heads? If so you probably should open up the oil passage some.
When you put it back together get a garbage valve cover and cut the top off of it so you can look and see if oil is flowing. Or just run it without the valve cover. Making a mess is better than not knowing if it's right.
Good luck
Bill

A blower motor can have a lot of combustion pressure when the exhaust is trying to open. If you're running a blower then you should invest in some higher quality valvetrain gear.

Also being that your exhaust open farther, are your
retainers hitting the guides... check that and like
and like Andy said, with the added blower pressure
you have higher pressures to open the valve.... but
I would think your retainers are hitting

Bill

We questioned lack of oil too. Just checked all cups. No signs of bluing or heat issues on them. Some of the cups do seem to have a thinner wall than some of the others. Oil passages are not restricted. Running 70 psi of pressure in the system. Will order a set of Comp Cams push rods and make them to length at every position to rule that out. Andy. I am running 11 psi of boost 5% under driven. Supposedly 14 psi if I over drive it but the car has plenty for me right now. Andy. Also bought your book on engines but never had time to read it. Got it right as it came out but life had changes and was not interested in the car anymore. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Mr P.

Checked that already when I assembled the heads and had to cut the guides down because of my lift. Been awhile since I put it together and do not remember what I had for clearance but had plenty of safety margin on it I know. Also questioned that too when this happened and looked and no hit on seals just in case something changed. Thanks for input.