I have a 1971 Charger SE with concealed headlamps. I have been blowing voltage regulators like crazy. The headlamp doors will work when the voltage regulator is properly working but when the voltage regulator blows the headlamp doors do not open or close. I was told to switch to a 1 wire alternator setup so I bought a tough stuff 100 amp 1 wire alternator to solve my problems with the voltage regulator. But now that I've switched to the tough stuff 1 wire alternator and I am still experiencing problems with my headlight doors not opening and closing. Can anybody give me some advice on this?

How well is the regulator grounded? And what condition is the terminal in where the pig tail hooks up? Those things are case grounded, and thats with just the two mount bolts going through the sheet metal. On my 71 I scraped the paint off the back side of the mount ears and also the fire wall. I went to hardware store and got a couple of nuts and with star washers tightened them up behind the fire wall where the wiper linkage is. Try to clean all of the terminals cause they can corrode. If that doesn't help something else is wrong.

I cleaned up the bulk head, replaced the negative batterry cable, sanded all ground spots and replaced the bolts on the v/r and the chassis ground from battery. I have now gone to the 1 wire alternator w/ built in v/r. Still having issues with the headlight doors not opening and closing. They seem to be getting juice just not enough to open and close them.

Pull the connector(s) off of the door electrical terminals & jump fire directly from the battery positive post to them & see if they operate correctly. this'll tell you if the issue is in/at the doors or a voltage drop to them. Not sure how the reg issue is connected/affecting the door operation since when the reg goes out (open) the system voltage will start to go down but not enough to affect the doors immediately which is what I'm hearing is happening. I'd continue to check each connection on those 2 circuits & regs blow from either a bad one (which doesn't sound like the case here with repeated reg replacements) or too much current flowing in the field circuit over time (occaisional dead short or brush grounding or internal alt field fault). EDIT make sure the door have good continuity to ground also when checking them (jumper wire or ohmmeter)