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After sleeping on this, I bet that bellhousing needed to be indexed even though it was stock, and was just a bit too far off

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This , new bellhousing , it is not indexed to the engine . Original bellhousing are attached to the engine block when it is being machined and mated to it .

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I can see that you have never been in an engine machining / assembly plant.

The only thing attached to an engine block for machining is the bearing caps or main bearing bedplate (if equipped).

A bellhousing is machined separately, most likely in a separate plant, or at a minimum in a separate area of the plant, and taken off a palate or feeder and randomly selected to be bolted to the back of an engine. This is a relatively non-critical joint as far as geometry goes.

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I'm going to GUESS that you did not work for Chrysler in their engine plant back in the 60's? ... Neither did I .... I see that you are were a Diesel development Engineer and have probably forgotten more than I know, but ....

I don't know if I saved it but on more than one occasion a picture has been posted on this website during a discussion about this subject ... indexing a bellhousing ... showing Chrysler engine blocks before/awaiting assembly and it clearly shows EMPTY blocks both with and without bellhousings attached to them waiting for their turn.

I put a stock '513 alum 130 tooth bellhousing on the back of a 68 383 block and checked the runout , it wasn't even close to the factory allowable spec ...

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Seems like the problem bounced around a bit, but in the old thread ph23vo mentions you might have the big rod.
If your engine has the "six pack rods" which were much bigger than the LY rods you need to have a specific harmonic balancer, AS WELL as a specific flywheel. Even though it is a steel crank. With the six pack rods there isn't enough weight on the counter balance weights of the crank to offset the weight of the rods.


If you DO have the six pack rods, then AFTER you get the proper balancer (it will look assymetrical, with more weight on one side)you then need to have the whole rotating assembly (pistons, rods, crank, balancer, and flywheel) ALL BALANCED TOGETHER.

IF you DON'T have six pack rods, then you need to get a harmonic dampner and flyhweel that are completely symmetrical (no weights on one side)
and it should still be balanced, although this time balanced without the dampner and flywheel.

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Seems like the problem bounced around a bit, but in the old thread ph23vo mentions you might have the big rod.
If your engine has the "six pack rods" which were much bigger than the LY rods you need to have a specific harmonic balancer, AS WELL as a specific flywheel. Even though it is a steel crank. With the six pack rods there isn't enough weight on the counter balance weights of the crank to offset the weight of the rods.


If you DO have the six pack rods, then AFTER you get the proper balancer (it will look assymetrical, with more weight on one side)you then need to have the whole rotating assembly (pistons, rods, crank, balancer, and flywheel) ALL BALANCED TOGETHER.

IF you DON'T have six pack rods, then you need to get a harmonic dampner and flyhweel that are completely symmetrical (no weights on one side)
and it should still be balanced, although this time balanced without the dampner and flywheel.

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68 wouldn't have big rods but they could have been swapped in but you don't really need to have it external balance. I had a big rod/heavy TRW piston rod combo internal balanced , small amout of weight added back to the crank. I prefer internal balnce over external balance.

68 , when you get the flywheel off put up a picture of both side s please.

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Woke up to let the puppy out. I'll try to answer all questions quickly.

I do not know what the runout was on it either time. Sometimes they tell you to trim the input if you have a certain bearing in the crank, can't think off the top of my head. But that is what the transmission guys will say (mopar specific guys). It did not change anything, so they replaced that completely.
I don't remember what I meant when I said it looked sideways. I probably just didn't know what I was looking at, at the time haha. That was probably about the time I overhauled my first transmission on my car. If anything, I'd imagine we replaced the transmission mount. Pretty sure even twice. We were literally trying everything, multiple times (where is banging head against wall smiley)
I will check the bell-housing to front bearing retainer. Would hope its the same as we got the trans overhauled and bell-housing from the same person. Thanks!
CabBurge, never wrecked and the vibration felt would be sitting still or driving above, say, 3000 rpm's. With the clutch pressed in or out.

I'll take pictures of everything as we take it out.

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I will check the bell-housing to front bearing retainer. Would hope its the same as we got the trans overhauled and bell-housing from the same person.


the vibration felt would be sitting still or driving above, say, 3000 rpm's. With the clutch pressed in or out.

I'll take pictures of everything as we take it out.

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the bearing retainer should be a snug/slip fit in the bell housing as it is what centers the trans to the crankshaft. The trans bolts are only there to hold it in place.

I'll agree if the vibration was felt sitting still with the clutch in or out and while the car was moving that indicates a severely mis-aligned bell housing, clutch, flywheel, crank, balancer, or other engine issue. keep us posted

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I'll agree if the vibration was felt sitting still with the clutch in or out and while the car was moving that indicates a severely mis-aligned bell housing, clutch, flywheel, crank, balancer, or other engine issue. keep us posted

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I'll agree if the vibration was felt sitting still with the clutch in or out and while the car was moving that indicates a severely mis-aligned bell housing, clutch, flywheel, crank, balancer, or other engine issue. keep us posted

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If the vibration is felt with the clutch pedal pushed IN then the bellhousing is a non-factor.

The big clue is it is felt when the pedal is pushed in as well, my money is on the engine having the wrong flywheel, it was out of balance and the crank finally broke at or near the flange and the carnage followed.

Sorry man, but I suspect that you are looking at an engine rebuild with a fresh crank (all the bearings will be beat to hell from the imbalance) along with a bellhousing and crank. Best check the driveshaft wasn't bent too.

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I'll disagree for the following reasons,
If the bell housing was far enough off center or out of plane with the back of the block it could create a binding on the input shaft that could lead to a vibration whether the clutch was in or out.
I would also like to say that at this time we don't know what the root cause was, nor do we know the extent of the damage. The motor may or may not be fine. Statements such as

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the crank finally broke at or near the flange and the carnage followed.

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are pure speculation and will only make the OP feel worse than he already does

no offense meant to you just trying to help the guy find his problem

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Lot's of answers found in the old thread. You actually helped out also.
Here is the one I could find. Seems this issue has been going on longer than I remembered.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5264280

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with the clutch, pressure plate, d-shaft and trans out there was no vibration at any rpm.
put in new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (refurbished from brewers), rebuilt transmission, new throw out bearing, and the vibration is still there

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Re read that several times and think it through, the answer appears to be somewhere in the second sentence of the above quote

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I'll disagree for the following reasons,
If the bell housing was far enough off center or out of plane with the back of the block it could create a binding on the input shaft that could lead to a vibration whether the clutch was in or out.

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The motor may or may not be fine. Statements such as

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the crank finally broke at or near the flange and the carnage followed.

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are pure speculation and will only make the OP feel worse than he already does

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... and if you look at the one picture of the crank flange it looks like the back of the flywheel isn't in plane with the back of the block.

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