Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: superwrench]
#1469308
07/17/13 05:19 PM
07/17/13 05:19 PM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054 N.W. Florida
Fat_Mike
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054
N.W. Florida
|
Quote:
Of course, you could lift the box up 18" and change it...
Neither way sounds like a whole bunch of fun, but it's gonna get done in the near future. Is lifting the bed the easiest way to tackle this? Also, just any parts store unit will suffice, or is there a specific brand that's known to be better than the others??? I doubt that I'll want to do this twice...
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: superwrench]
#1469311
07/17/13 10:40 PM
07/17/13 10:40 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582 Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
|
I pulled out a gas station one night, reading over a 1/4 tank and I ran out of fuel... definitely is a pain, but not I hit a half tank and I fill up. Tank is 34 gallons and at a 1/2 it took 19 gallons. Hard to believe the next 1/4 is 15 gallons.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert 340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z 66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: superwrench]
#1469312
07/17/13 11:37 PM
07/17/13 11:37 PM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054 N.W. Florida
Fat_Mike
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054
N.W. Florida
|
Quote:
I'd really recommend using the Mopar one....
Superwrench, I want to make sure I understand you correctly. Are you saying that the Mopar brand is the way to go because it's GOOD, or just better than the parts store parts??? If it's still "hit or miss," I guess I'd just rather continue to use my odometer than pay for a part and do all the labor only to find that I'm back where I started from.
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: Fat_Mike]
#1469315
07/19/13 12:33 PM
07/19/13 12:33 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840 The Swamp
Sixpak
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
|
My 01 Diesel left me stranded once due to this. Back in the old days the rheostat portion of the sending unit used to be real wire wound around a phenolic material - nowadays its more like a printed circuit board. Oh, and by the way, my OE sending unit, just like my lift pump, is a CARTER part - CARTER is stamped right on the rheostat part of the sending unit. I've bought lots of aftermarket parts from Airtex, Standard ignition, etc. that turned out to be the OE manufacturer. You might be able to use an aftermarket part and find it's really a re-boxed OE part. AN example - I just replaced the master and slave cylinder in my 01 and the replacement parts are the exact same manufacturer as the OE one the factory installed. Replaced the neutral safety switch in my 6 speed with one sold by Airtex - get it out of the box, and stamped into the plastic part of the housing is 'POLLACK' - same as the OE one installed in 2000. So I'd check online, like at Rock Auto, and look at the pics, before shelling out big $$ for a dealer part.
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: Sixpak]
#1469316
07/19/13 03:48 PM
07/19/13 03:48 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
|
Dealers typically just lift the bed to do this. 8 bolts that usually zip right out with an impact, even if rusty. Then unhook the tail light harness, and remove spare tire winch rod. Bed can be up off the frame in under 30 minutes and beats trying to drain the tank or fighting trying to lower it when full
**Photobucket sucks**
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1469317
07/19/13 04:21 PM
07/19/13 04:21 PM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054 N.W. Florida
Fat_Mike
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054
N.W. Florida
|
Quote:
Dealers typically just lift the bed to do this. 8 bolts that usually zip right out with an impact, even if rusty. Then unhook the tail light harness, and remove spare tire winch rod. Bed can be up off the frame in under 30 minutes and beats trying to drain the tank or fighting trying to lower it when full
That's the way I'll tackle it. I won't have any trouble getting some muscle over here to lift the bed off. I don't have a compressor or air tools, but a friend of mine does...on a trailer. Think I'll hijack it for a day.
|
|
|
Re: What's the cause of "1/4 tank syndrome?"
[Re: Sixpak]
#1845825
06/10/15 04:06 PM
06/10/15 04:06 PM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054 N.W. Florida
Fat_Mike
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,054
N.W. Florida
|
Well, nearly two years later I still hadn't gotten around to replacing the sending unit. My fuel pump left me stranded the other day, so I reckon that was the motivation I needed. Two things: I had roughly 2/3 of a tank. I didn't want to drop the tank with that much gas, so I did the bed lift method. Although getting the 6 bolts out was tough (due to factory loc tite), that's the only way I'd ever do it again. Take 4 bolts out completely, and leave the 2 rearward most bolts about half way out. Prop up the front of the bed and get to work. Way easier than I imagined... Also, there were no Mopar fuel pumps in the vicinity, so I went with an Aeromotive pump from Autozone. Once installed, I filled the tank and reset to trip meter. When I get around 250 miles on the tank I'll throw a 5 gallon can of gas in the bed and run it down to nothing (or close to it if it seems to be working correctly). I'll report back if I have any issues with the Aeromotive pump. Thanks to all for the help above.
|
|
|
|
|