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rear suspension help #1463772
07/06/13 11:31 PM
07/06/13 11:31 PM
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Sparks,Nv.
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pete Offline OP
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pete  Offline OP
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I've picked up another project and need a little advice. This car has been backhalved,as it was used for the strip for years. Now I would like to turn it back into a driver. I"m thinking I would like to 4link the rear with coilovers. When they did this they put the frame spacing at 24" between and 28" overall width. Not being to familiar with backhalves can I make this thing handle well enough to carve corners and what do I need to do?

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Re: rear suspension help [Re: pete] #1463773
07/07/13 10:45 AM
07/07/13 10:45 AM
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blown71duster Offline
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I bought a challenger someone had tubbed. I am looking into the triangulated 4-bar setup to replace the drag race style 4 link.



http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/33.pdf

Re: rear suspension help [Re: blown71duster] #1463774
07/07/13 11:45 AM
07/07/13 11:45 AM
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Sparks,Nv.
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pete Offline OP
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As you can see in the pic this was tubbed also, I still have to finish removing the wheel wells. I'm going to do a mini tub. I was looking at the triangulated 4 link kits online as I think that's what I'm going to do. I'm just wondering about the 28" spacing on the backhalve being a wide enough center of gravity to keep from having to much body roll. Not that I even have an idea whether this will be affected. Which is why I posted, but looking at your post I wonder if I should call and get help (answers). Yes the cage inside is going to disappear soon.

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Re: rear suspension help [Re: pete] #1463775
07/07/13 11:14 PM
07/07/13 11:14 PM
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blown71duster Offline
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I would consider a new rear clip to make everything work good. I found it would be cheaper to work with a triangulated clip than going back to a stock setup, at least using reproduction parts, frame rails , trunk floors etc from amd . Art Morrison clip is shown at 40 inches wide ...



http://www.artmorrison.com/instructions/tri4-bar1-Model.pdf

Re: rear suspension help [Re: pete] #1463776
07/07/13 11:32 PM
07/07/13 11:32 PM
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TC@HP2 Offline
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In a general sense, yes it can be made to handle well enough to be fun to drive. I'd ask how serious are you about the intended usage? Street action, Goodguys autocross, open track days, serious race efforts? The seriousness of this answer should drive the seriousness of the effort to change the system.

A general rule of thumb is that a 1" relocation of the springs reduces its effective spring rate at the face of the drum by 5#. Figuring your springs are currently at a 28" spread, 18" was taken out of the overall width, or 9" per side. You would need a spring pack that is 45# heavier in rate than a pack located at the original position. Another general assumption; a mopar XHD leaf spring is around 150#, so you would need a 195# spring to duplicate the same resistance. That isn't real hard to find in a leaf pack.

Looking at your picture, it appears the original spring perches are still attached to the housing. I also assume that even for a backhalf job, there is a structural member where the links mount. Would it be possible to simply mount up a spring hanger to this area that aligns with the old spring perch?

Re: rear suspension help [Re: TC@HP2] #1463777
07/08/13 10:42 PM
07/08/13 10:42 PM
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Sparks,Nv.
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pete Offline OP
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I actually don't plan on using that housing,as I will do the same as I did on the cuda and pull a dana out of a truck and adapt it. I'm going to narrow it a little also. I still have the option of using the original front spring mounts as they're still there so if I use 3 link or 4 link I'm essentially not moving things that far inboard and as for the 28" overall i can still fab up wider mounting points for the coilovers. I'm starting to think it will work.







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