Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462240
07/03/13 04:07 PM
07/03/13 04:07 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Pulling the coil wire tells you it ain't from excessive initial or too high of DCR. Bad batt cell. heat soak in the starter. bad starter. poor cable connection. too high of eng drag when hot. cables to small (critical if trunk mounted batt). You've eliminated some of these. I'd clean EVERY connection/terminal starting at the batt positive post to its' cable & so on & the ground side also, starter to block, block to firewall, firewall (frame) to batt neg cable, both ends of that cable. Pull the plugs (do it quick while it is hot) & check turning torque on the crank bolt (1&1/4" socket/ft lb torque wrench).
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462242
07/04/13 10:04 AM
07/04/13 10:04 AM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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master
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Ontario, Canada
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Grounds grounds grounds. the motor must be grounded well to the body and directly to the battery! at least one ground back of motor to firewall (two may be better). then a bigger ground front of motor to the frame and battery My battery is in the trunk so I split this heavy ground off and run a #8 ground wire to the battery where it goes to the negative post and is again split to the body. The battery also has a heavy ground to the body. You can never have enough grounds. unibody front to back creates too much resistance to to be a good ground by itself. Then if you have the battery in the trunk you should have at least a #8 wire (6 or 4 is better) from the alternator to the battery . Doubled #10 will work. too much voltage drop going that far on a single #10. If the battery is in the trunk should have a #1 or bigger wire from the battery to the starter and 4 or 6 up to the starter relay. Also your amp gauge may be week bypass it by putting both wires on one terminal and getting a volt gauge. what voltage is your battery at after the 1/2 hour drive?? If alt main wire goes in through dash and back out check both contacts at the bulkhead connectors and the amp gauge.
Last edited by Dodgem; 07/04/13 10:10 AM.
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462246
07/05/13 09:52 AM
07/05/13 09:52 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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You could put the battery tray back in up front & the original batt to relay/batt to block cables & a known good battery & rerouting/jumping the relay as needed then when it's hot & slow cranking see if it will crank normal from/with the battery up front which would tell you that it ain't the engines' drag nor the starter & that it's either the batt or the cables. With the headers being fenderwell & 3 different starters I would not be thinking the starter. Holler how it goes
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: 63stabamatic]
#1462247
07/05/13 10:08 AM
07/05/13 10:08 AM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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master
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Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
I chased that problem for a while, it was the battery
Remember line should run straight to the battery from the alternator and be at least #8 (dual/doubled 10 will work) maybe #6 I have #4 alt to battery,
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462250
07/05/13 01:00 PM
07/05/13 01:00 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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Ontario, Canada
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Check your voltage at the start relay! Then on both sides of the amp gauge I would bypass the amp gauge by putting both wires on one terminal Have you tried starting it (rolling it over) by jumping the starter relay?? check bulkhead connectors. If it has 13 or more volts at the starter relay battery in the trunk is not your problem.
Last edited by Dodgem; 07/05/13 01:01 PM.
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462251
07/05/13 01:07 PM
07/05/13 01:07 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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Ontario, Canada
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Start retard is not needed unless it is kicking back on the starter when trying to start. I assume boosting it helps?? Did you try boosting it with positive to big nut on relay and negative to the block. If the motor is getting real hard to turn over it could be for 1 of two reasons 1. pistons are forged and not enough clearance so they are tight hot 2. It has a turned bearing. 3 Overly tight pistons has caused a rod bearing to fail and turn.
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: cudas4ever]
#1462253
07/05/13 01:22 PM
07/05/13 01:22 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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Ontario, Canada
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Yes on the pistons being tight and somewhat on a turned bearing if it's a bearing it will get worse. I little starter switch to use at the relay to roll it over eliminates all the under dash stuff. I had a problem like yours once and it was loose wires at the starter. Once the main live from trunk and once the step up plug on the mini stater (that black plug is bolted to starter under cap I eliminated it.
Last edited by Dodgem; 07/05/13 01:29 PM.
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Re: Hard starting when warm
[Re: Dodgem]
#1462256
07/06/13 05:43 PM
07/06/13 05:43 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,361 swamps of florida
beepsalot
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swamps of florida
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you can have sufficient voltage, but you need amperage.... test for amps. we had a car in the shop the other day, 12.8 volts, but only 7 amps..... get an amp clamp and test.
Just Follow Me Down the Street, You'll Know i'm Up to No Good...
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