Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
#1461519
07/01/13 10:59 PM
07/01/13 10:59 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,819
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Ok.. A/C systems are kinda foreign to me. Here's the situation:
Yesterday, the system just quits blowing cold, but it is blowing. I've narrowed it down to a failed compressor clutch because:
1) the compressor isn't running withe AC on
2) the clutch will not respond when battery power is applied directly to its harness, both polarities. Engine on or off. No clack, no spin. Could it be a seized compressor and not just the clutch? You tell me.
The system IS charged, I checked.
My options as I see them now are these, in order from cheapest to most expensive, not including buying a new car.
1) I can buy a new clutch for the compressor, (btw it is a Hella HS18 compressor) for $100 but I THINK I need to crack the system open in order to install?
2) buy a whole new rebuilt hella HS18 compressor with clutch for about $270 which of course also means opening the system.
3) take the whole situation to shop for repair (not in my nature).
What to do? Can I just replace parts then take to shop for evacuation and recharge?
Can a clutch be installed on these WITHOUT opening the freon system?
Again, a/c systems are kinda new to me...
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1461520
07/01/13 11:15 PM
07/01/13 11:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,872
connecticut
pnypwr
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,872
connecticut
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when you apply B+ to the clutch did you back probe the terminal or just hit one side then the other?
"Are you gonna bark all day lil doggy? Or are you gonna bite?"
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65 mustang 347
70 coronet R/T 440
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: pnypwr]
#1461521
07/01/13 11:22 PM
07/01/13 11:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,819
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Quote:
when you apply B+ to the clutch did you back probe the terminal or just hit one side then the other?
Tried both ways (+ -, - +) directly to the terminals from the battery. Also checked the harness that supplies power to the clutch, and yes, got a reading of 14.1 with engine running and AC on.
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: tahoechallenge]
#1461523
07/01/13 11:27 PM
07/01/13 11:27 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,819
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Quote:
If the clutch coil is bad it would be ok to just change the clutch. Clutches can be hard to pull off. The coil should have resistance and not be open. It might be hard to check because there is a diode that dissipates voltage when it is switched off. If the clutch is worn out you will need to replace the compressor. If the compressor is seized up you will need to replace the compressor along with the dryer and other parts. This will require a lot of cleaning. How do you know if the charge is good? On most systems, if the pressure is below 20 psi the compressor will not turn on.
Good luck.
I hooked up one of the cheap recharge gauges and it immediately read in the high range.
If I open the system and replace the compressor, can I then take it to shop for an evacuation and charge or would I be screwing something up?
Just trying to avoid the $800 repair bill here...
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1461524
07/01/13 11:34 PM
07/01/13 11:34 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 311
Mass. USA#1
hemi70
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 311
Mass. USA#1
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If clutch does not engage when power and ground are applied to it and when engine is off you can turn the center/input part by hand then it indeed sounds like a faulty clutch or coil. All of the parts on the front of the compressor can be replaced without opening the system. (Clutch, coil, pulley usually sold as a kit) I will try to cut\paste the service info. Gary.  6. Carefully remove the compressor clutch field coil connector and wire lead from the connector bracket (2). 7. Remove the compressor shaft bolt (3). A band-type oil filter wrench or a strap wrench may be used to hold the clutch plate (4) from rotating during bolt removal. CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate and the pulley and bearing assembly to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft as this may damage the clutch plate. NOTE: Use care not to lose any clutch shim(s) during removal of the clutch plate, as they may be reused during the clutch plate installation process. 8. Tap the clutch plate (2) lightly with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft (1) and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) (3). 9. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), remove the snap ring (2) that secures the pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor and remove the pulley and bearing assembly. 10. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), remove the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil (2) to the front of the A/C compressor (3) and remove the field coil.
Last edited by hemi70; 07/01/13 11:41 PM.
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: hemi70]
#1461525
07/01/13 11:49 PM
07/01/13 11:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,819
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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OP
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Quote:
If clutch does not engage when power and ground are applied to it and when engine is off you can turn the center/input part by hand then it indeed sounds like a faulty clutch or coil.
All of the parts on the front of the compressor can be replaced without opening the system. (Clutch, coil, pulley usually sold as a kit)
I will try to cut\paste the service info.
Gary.
6. Carefully remove the compressor clutch field coil connector and wire lead from the connector bracket (2).
7. Remove the compressor shaft bolt (3). A band-type oil filter wrench or a strap wrench may be used to hold the clutch plate (4) from rotating during bolt removal.
CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate and the pulley and bearing assembly to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft as this may damage the clutch plate.
NOTE: Use care not to lose any clutch shim(s) during removal of the clutch plate, as they may be reused during the clutch plate installation process.
8. Tap the clutch plate (2) lightly with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft (1) and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) (3).
9. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), remove the snap ring (2) that secures the pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor and remove the pulley and bearing assembly.
10. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), remove the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil (2) to the front of the A/C compressor (3) and remove the field coil.
Wow, exactly what I was hoping for! Thank you Gary!
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Re: Jeep, A/C repair question, 2006 liberty
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1461527
07/02/13 01:48 PM
07/02/13 01:48 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
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Did you unplug and re connect the low pressure transducer switch on the drier? Try that and see if the compressor cycles on. I know you said the system is charged (how did you check it?) but usually if there is a leak (common) then the compressor will not cycle on with low pressure in the system.
Couple things to check before you start changing parts, won't cost anything if you have a test light or multimeter. Check the relay in the power distribution center to see if it clicks when you activate the A/C switch on the panel. If you're not sure, swap it with a different one that isn't being used. You kind of need to see if the compressor is getting voltage when the switch is on. Check your fuses too, (under hood and under the dash) sometimes a blown fuse elsewhere can cause these types of things. Not likely but easy enough to check.
You might know if the clutch was bad, you'd probably hear the bearing when you activate the switch. You can pop off the serp belt and wiggle the pulley to see whats happening. If it was locked up, you would know it.
You should have a manifold gauge at the minimum to check pressures on the high and low side.
I would also see if you can have someone evacuate and charge the system with dye and check for leaks with an ultraviolet light. Might take a little while, like a day or two, then re check.
Common leak areas are the H valve (gets stuck) condenser (damage) and evaporator (clogs). You could also check the evap drain for dye once its filled. Then you know you need an evaporator.
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