Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1437434
05/17/13 10:33 PM
05/17/13 10:33 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,831 Holland MI Ottawa
2boltmain
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,831
Holland MI Ottawa
|
Almost all store bought spray paint can be scratched off with a fingernail and are dissolved by gas or break fluid. On my motorcycle engines I like the PJ1 Engine case black. Gas, laquer thinner and brake fluid will not effect it. ive done brake calipers in brake caliper specific paint. After lettting cure for days the lighteset drop of brake fluid eats it up.
Keep old mopars alive.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: 2boltmain]
#1437435
05/17/13 11:06 PM
05/17/13 11:06 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560
So Cal
|
Quote:
Almost all store bought spray paint can be scratched off with a fingernail and are dissolved by gas or break fluid. On my motorcycle engines I like the PJ1 Engine case black. Gas, laquer thinner and brake fluid will not effect it. ive done brake calipers in brake caliper specific paint. After lettting cure for days the lighteset drop of brake fluid eats it up.
Heat the part to 170 degrees and then spray bomb it. Then back in oven for 15 min and out again for each additional coat. Then bake a 350 for 2 hours....
Now, scratch your fingernail against the paint and see how durable it is.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: OzHemi]
#1437436
05/17/13 11:15 PM
05/17/13 11:15 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: gtx6970]
#1437437
05/18/13 01:12 AM
05/18/13 01:12 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 492 Kansas
BEINGmeISaCRIME
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 492
Kansas
|
Quote:
It depends a lot on what the intended part is going to be exposed to. The actual item being painted and on how the part is prepped as well.
I've used duplicolor rattle can engine enamels with excellant results.
Sadly their hemi orange paint doesn't have enough solids in it. Just a little bit of gas took it right off on my intake manifold. I've had better luck with the chrysler blue.
There is always powdercoating as an option
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1437438
05/18/13 01:28 AM
05/18/13 01:28 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346 Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
|
Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
No, I have not tried that before...
The extreme chassis black though, once cured basically needs to be ground off to remove it from my experiance.
I did the suspension parts (including control arms, subframe, etc) on the Torana with it, and I had to weld a couple of little things onto the lower control arms, and needed to use a 40 grit flap disc on my angle grinder to get the paint off the spot needed.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: OzHemi]
#1437439
05/18/13 01:36 AM
05/18/13 01:36 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
No, I have not tried that before...
The extreme chassis black though, once cured basically needs to be ground off to remove it from my experiance.
I did the suspension parts (including control arms, subframe, etc) on the Torana with it, and I had to weld a couple of little things onto the lower control arms, and needed to use a 40 grit flap disc on my angle grinder to get the paint off the spot needed.
Is the Extreme Chassis Black come in a spray can or is it to be brushed on like POR15?
Not familar with the "Extreme" version of Eastwood Chassis Black.
EDIT: I see it's around $19 and up for the 14oz spray can.
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
Last edited by autoxcuda; 05/18/13 01:41 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1437440
05/18/13 01:40 AM
05/18/13 01:40 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346 Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
|
Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
|
It is in a spray can. (think they sell it in the quart perhaps too? ) They also sell a 2-part chassis paint too that has to be sprayed with a gun.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: OzHemi]
#1437441
05/18/13 01:43 AM
05/18/13 01:43 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,560
So Cal
|
Quote:
It is in a spray can. (think they sell it in the quart perhaps too? )
They also sell a 2-part chassis paint too that has to be sprayed with a gun.
I see it's around $19 and up for the 14oz spray can. Is that about the going rate?
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1437443
05/18/13 01:52 AM
05/18/13 01:52 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346 Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
|
Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
|
I think it was $18 last time I ordered it, and now and then it would go on sale. Guess it might have went up a little bit if it is $20 a can now. And I have a can about half empty from last year probably, and used it a month ago or so and still sprayed fine. Not sure the price, but there is someone at Long Beach swap who sells eastwood paints too, on the main aisle, left side right as you come in. I have always just ordered it direct in the past, but noticed the seller just at the last swap meet for what ever reason.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1437445
05/18/13 10:00 AM
05/18/13 10:00 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632 jersey shore
flypaper
I hate Texas
|
I hate Texas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632
jersey shore
|
Quote:
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
yup.. thats why i hate spray bombs and i would rather use a gun..
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: flypaper]
#1437446
05/18/13 10:30 AM
05/18/13 10:30 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
|
Quote:
Quote:
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
yup.. thats why i hate spray bombs and i would rather use a gun..
I turn the can upside down and spray a little till the nozzle clears to store when I'm done with it. That helps 90% of the time to insure it's gonna spray next time you need it.
Then if I'm really concerned about the tip I'll do the above, then pull it off and toss it a spray can top full of lacquer thinner. Let it soak for minute. Then take my air hose and blow the nozzle out, might do it twice and no need to let it soak for hours because it's plastic. Never fails to spray like new next time I need it. Can't do this with much success after the paint dries in the nozzle, then it's a waist of time in my mind.
Lastly I recently grabbed a partial can of Eastwoods chassis black from about 2008 and it sprays fine and I didn't do the lacquer cleaning last time I used it.
I was justifying spray cans in mind when I was doing my car in 2005 that it would be better than what the factory used originally(some parts were bare or lightly covered in cosmoline) and has held up good.
Like what was said, prep is everything.
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: flypaper]
#1437448
05/18/13 10:42 AM
05/18/13 10:42 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,489 west kentucky
gomangoRTSE
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,489
west kentucky
|
I work for the largest mfg of automotive/architectural of paint in the world. (ok that and a $1 buys you a cup of coffee) but let me shed some light on this subject if I can.
A lot of good ideas listed and some of you are fairly correct about your ideas.
Paint cans do not put out content with the "volume solids" that other ways of application can. Its the other items contained in that can of spray that enhance its shelf life and ability to spray,that come into play. Some very flammable contents involved. Look at the contents on that label. These content take up space in that can.
Spray cans put on a much lighter volume of true paint (final product that remains after everything else evaporates away from the surface) When you buy any gallon of paint per se to put on your wall, only 30% to 40% is what actually remains after the other things evaporate. Its the titanium dioxide content that makes for coverage.
At any rate back to "spray bombs" They go on easily yes, look good sure, and they will harden considerably if baked as explained above. But many people try to use spray bombs on too large a circumference(frames etc) and while they look good, they wont hold up as well as a mix and cure epoxy or urethane. Some enamels that are higher in volume solids do a better job. However many of these enamels and spray bombs things dull down, fade, even give you that white out (cloudy) effect when using deep tone or black base products.
Spray bombs can be beneficial. Worldwide sales of $4 plus billion in that market segment tells you that, and for the mfg spray bombs are quite lucrative. Why? For the total amount of real finish coat in a spray bomb, which isn't much there is a nice profit. Nice profit.
Spray bombs are I think are good on smaller parts, parts than can be baked, parts that are on the car everything else cannot be taped off. Ever notice how a lot of car enthusiast are touching up their front suspension parts with spray bombs? Its like a woman getting perm, looks good for awhile but goes away in time. Rust and other outside outside chemicals, solvents, salt etc make their way thru spray can products at a much higher rate than other higher solids coatings.
Description: cid:image010.jpg@01CE0238.A7E85B50Industries
"Bringing Innovation To The Surface"
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: gomangoRTSE]
#1437449
05/18/13 11:30 AM
05/18/13 11:30 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
After spraying take the nozzle off & blast it out with a 1 second shot of brake kleen then replace it on the can & it'll be clean for the next time
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: Commando1]
#1437450
05/18/13 11:46 AM
05/18/13 11:46 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,910 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,910
Kirkland, Washington
|
Quote:
Quote:
I just used a 99 center WallyWorld spray bomb on redoing a set of dumbells ....
Doc and Oldman got together and painted their nails!
|
|
|
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ...
[Re: moparcyco]
#1437453
05/18/13 02:50 PM
05/18/13 02:50 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,910 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,910
Kirkland, Washington
|
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.
IF (and that's a BIG if) you catalyze the paint!
|
|
|
|
|