Moparts
Spray bombs - the truth ...
Posted By: RebelDart
Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 04:46 PM
So .... wiper motors, radiator,power steering pumps, pulley wheels, steering knuckles and control arms, etc., etc. ... we don't use spray bombs of any kind, primer or enamels , laquers or epoxies, ever ? Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?) Just seems to be alot of trouble to epoxy prime and single stage these smaller items - is it done more often than not ? back in the day I used spray paints quite a bit for these type items - what's the straight dope (not a daily driver) ? There's alot of spray paints out there for restoration (cast finish, aluminum finish, wrinkle finish), but so many pros "say no to spray bombs".
Posted By: mopowers
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:21 PM
This oughta get interesting...
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:24 PM
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Posted By: Challenger 1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:26 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
I think he was asking?
And I agree, Eastwoods chassis black is some of the best "spray bomb" stuff I have ever used.
Posted By: BigBlockMopar
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:28 PM
"pro's" have the means to do it 'right'. The average Joe playing around in his garage does not want to spend either time nor money to recondition steeringparts imo.
I've never used primer on any steering/suspension parts. I don't think they came out that badly...
Parts were spraybombed black and castiron-gray, then covered with a coat of clear. The chassis was brushedpainted;
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:35 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
I think he was asking?
And I agree, Eastwoods chassis black is some of the best "spray bomb" stuff I have ever used.
I understand he might have been asking, but ment I disagreed with the statement in general.
And I've had good luck with a few other various spray can paint. I think alot has to do with prep and the way you put the paint on. Plus going with better quality stuff. I wouldn't expect the 99 cent cans from home depot to hold up all that well. 
Posted By: BEINGmeISaCRIME
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 05:43 PM
I've had great results using eastwood chassis black paints, another good company is KBS coatings. Both are quality products
Posted By: MOPARMIKE69
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 06:14 PM
With a gun and mixed paint you can put alot more paint on the piece with less over spray and if you use 2 part, the paint is way harder than anything you can get in a spray can.
With that being said if you use good quality paint, good prep, at least 4 coats, on most stuff it will be fine. Spray bomb paint has come a long way from the olden days in quality and longevity.
Posted By: Silver70
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 06:21 PM
It's a lot less time consuming to use a spray can. I can get out the gun and spray anything, but the time it takes adds up if you do it for everything. I got a small part to paint, I'm using a spray can if possible.
Posted By: dOc …
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 06:32 PM
I just used a 99 center WallyWorld spray bomb on redoing a set of dumbells .... came out GREAT. Just prep-it-right and use several coats instead of one
Posted By: rattler
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 06:38 PM
If your going to do much driving, it won't matter in a couple of years anyway. They all get dirty, and who wants to crawl around under there and clean?
Posted By: Pyper70
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 07:26 PM
When you want it done right....use a spray gun....I used it yesterday and today to paint ONE item. A bracket to hold up a motion control camera...the size of two soda can stacked on top of one another.. Total time painting...20 minutes....total time cleaning my gun and area....30 minutes.
If you want a killer paint job, there are some spray cans that actually have an ampule inside the can that releases catalyst once triggered (there is a push button on the underside of the can)..You get quality paint like PPG out of a nozzle...Not cheap but I have a few cans myself in the basement where its nice and cool. Once you crack it open though, you have to use it all or you have to toss it.
Posted By: Stanton
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/16/13 08:25 PM
I would say it all depends on the "job" as well as the exposure the parts will see. It just isn't feasible for the average guy to go and buy a 1/2 pint of every color or finish to do a car. However, if its a "custom" job where say, chassis, underside and all components are the same color then it makes sense to buy a quart and spray.
I epoxy primed and sprayed all my suspension components, engine, tranny, etc. but I used spray bombs to do my seat frames.
Posted By: RebelDart
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 02:49 AM
Thanks all .... and yes, I was questioning if the Eastwood was any better, not stating. I agree with most all here and will continue to use quality spray paints where it makes the most sense - car will get outside once a week or so. Bigger components get 2 part paints - for sprays, I like any Valspars, SEM, Eastwoods.
Posted By: QuickDodge
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 04:03 AM
Pick the paint that will be best for the intended use of the car. Things I consider:
1. How long does the paint need to last?
2. How important is appearance? Will faded paint be a concern?
3. Will the paint be exposed to sunlight?
4. Will it be exposed to salt covered winter roads?
5. Will the part be damaged by road debris?
Posted By: mopardude318
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 04:26 AM
I use duplicolor engine enamel on everything. from pulleys, to suspension parts, pedal assemblies, bell housings. seems to work okay. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of paint. dries fast. done.
Posted By: RR6BBL1969
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 05:25 AM
Quote:
I use duplicolor engine enamel on everything. from pulleys, to suspension parts, pedal assemblies, bell housings. seems to work okay. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of paint. dries fast. done.
I have used Duplicolor and gotten excellent results. I believe it is one of the best spray bombs as well as Eastwood.
Posted By: Commando1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 01:20 PM
Quote:
I just used a 99 center WallyWorld spray bomb on redoing a set of dumbells ....
Posted By: gtx6970
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/17/13 02:22 PM
It depends a lot on what the intended part is going to be exposed to. The actual item being painted and on how the part is prepped as well.
I've used duplicolor rattle can engine enamels with excellant results.
Posted By: 6PakBee
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 01:50 AM
I painted the exterior of an '85 Daytona with Tempo gloss black spray bombs.
Posted By: 2boltmain
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 02:33 AM
Almost all store bought spray paint can be scratched off with a fingernail and are dissolved by gas or break fluid. On my motorcycle engines I like the PJ1 Engine case black. Gas, laquer thinner and brake fluid will not effect it. ive done brake calipers in brake caliper specific paint. After lettting cure for days the lighteset drop of brake fluid eats it up.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 03:06 AM
Quote:
Almost all store bought spray paint can be scratched off with a fingernail and are dissolved by gas or break fluid. On my motorcycle engines I like the PJ1 Engine case black. Gas, laquer thinner and brake fluid will not effect it. ive done brake calipers in brake caliper specific paint. After lettting cure for days the lighteset drop of brake fluid eats it up.
Heat the part to 170 degrees and then spray bomb it. Then back in oven for 15 min and out again for each additional coat. Then bake a 350 for 2 hours....
Now, scratch your fingernail against the paint and see how durable it is.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 03:15 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
Posted By: BEINGmeISaCRIME
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:12 AM
Quote:
It depends a lot on what the intended part is going to be exposed to. The actual item being painted and on how the part is prepped as well.
I've used duplicolor rattle can engine enamels with excellant results.
Sadly their hemi orange paint doesn't have enough solids in it. Just a little bit of gas took it right off on my intake manifold. I've had better luck with the chrysler blue.
There is always powdercoating as an option 
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:28 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
No, I have not tried that before...
The extreme chassis black though, once cured basically needs to be ground off to remove it from my experiance.
I did the suspension parts (including control arms, subframe, etc) on the Torana with it, and I had to weld a couple of little things onto the lower control arms, and needed to use a 40 grit flap disc on my angle grinder to get the paint off the spot needed.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:36 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Even Eastwoods chassis paints (not any better than Rustoleum or Krylon ?)
I disagree..
I have used Eastwood's extreme chassis black numerous times, and it is more durable than any krylon/rustoleum stuff I have ever seen. Once it's cured, it is as hard as a rock.
Have you tried the Kyrlon Indusrial line of spray paint.
High solids and less tendency to fish eye.
Osha Black from Krylon is very close to Eastwood Chassis Black.
Many times you can order Krylon through a hardware/parts/etc store for in-store pickup without paying shipping.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...0&ppt=C0171
No, I have not tried that before...
The extreme chassis black though, once cured basically needs to be ground off to remove it from my experiance.
I did the suspension parts (including control arms, subframe, etc) on the Torana with it, and I had to weld a couple of little things onto the lower control arms, and needed to use a 40 grit flap disc on my angle grinder to get the paint off the spot needed.
Is the Extreme Chassis Black come in a spray can or is it to be brushed on like POR15?
Not familar with the "Extreme" version of Eastwood Chassis Black.
EDIT: I see it's around $19 and up for the 14oz spray can. 
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:40 AM
It is in a spray can. (think they sell it in the quart perhaps too?
)
They also sell a 2-part chassis paint too that has to be sprayed with a gun.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:43 AM
Quote:
It is in a spray can. (think they sell it in the quart perhaps too? )
They also sell a 2-part chassis paint too that has to be sprayed with a gun.
I see it's around $19 and up for the 14oz spray can. Is that about the going rate?
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:48 AM
I had painted the splash shields on the Torana with the extreme black originally, and when I added the adjustable sway bars onto the car a few months ago, I punched a hole in the center of the shield (used my hydraulic punch, super handy thing) and it didn't even chip the paint around the edges of the hole.
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 05:52 AM
I think it was $18 last time I ordered it, and now and then it would go on sale. Guess it might have went up a little bit if it is $20 a can now.
And I have a can about half empty from last year probably, and used it a month ago or so and still sprayed fine.
Not sure the price, but there is someone at Long Beach swap who sells eastwood paints too, on the main aisle, left side right as you come in. I have always just ordered it direct in the past, but noticed the seller just at the last swap meet for what ever reason.
Posted By: BigBlockMopar
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 11:06 AM
For some reason I've seen some people tend to want 'better' and more expensive paints, the less a car comes outside.
Wouldn't you want the good lasting paints on a car that's used daily where it's 'needed' most?
Posted By: flypaper
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 02:00 PM
Quote:
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
yup..
thats why i hate spray bombs and
i would rather use a gun..
Posted By: Challenger 1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 02:30 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Do the nozzles clog easily if you don't use the whole can at one time?
yup..
thats why i hate spray bombs and
i would rather use a gun..
I turn the can upside down and spray a little till the nozzle clears to store when I'm done with it. That helps 90% of the time to insure it's gonna spray next time you need it.
Then if I'm really concerned about the tip I'll do the above, then pull it off and toss it a spray can top full of lacquer thinner. Let it soak for minute. Then take my air hose and blow the nozzle out, might do it twice and no need to let it soak for hours because it's plastic. Never fails to spray like new next time I need it. Can't do this with much success after the paint dries in the nozzle, then it's a waist of time in my mind.
Lastly I recently grabbed a partial can of Eastwoods chassis black from about 2008 and it sprays fine and I didn't do the lacquer cleaning last time I used it.
I was justifying spray cans in mind when I was doing my car in 2005 that it would be better than what the factory used originally(some parts were bare or lightly covered in cosmoline) and has held up good. 
Like what was said, prep is everything.
Posted By: Challenger 1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 02:39 PM
Also IMO, larger spray cans work better than smaller cans because there's more propellant in a larger can.
Posted By: gomangoRTSE
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 02:42 PM
I work for the largest mfg of automotive/architectural of paint in the world. (ok that and a $1 buys you a cup of coffee) but let me shed some light on this subject if I can.
A lot of good ideas listed and some of you are fairly correct about your ideas.
Paint cans do not put out content with the "volume solids" that other ways of application can. Its the other items contained in that can of spray that enhance its shelf life and ability to spray,that come into play. Some very flammable contents involved. Look at the contents on that label. These content take up space in that can.
Spray cans put on a much lighter volume of true paint (final product that remains after everything else evaporates away from the surface)
When you buy any gallon of paint per se to put on your wall, only 30% to 40% is what actually remains after the other things evaporate. Its the titanium dioxide content that makes for coverage.
At any rate back to "spray bombs" They go on easily yes, look good sure, and they will harden considerably if baked as explained above. But many people try to use spray bombs on too large a circumference(frames etc) and while they look good, they wont hold up as well as a mix and cure epoxy or urethane. Some enamels that are higher in volume solids do a better job. However many of these enamels and spray bombs things dull down, fade, even give you that white out (cloudy) effect when using deep tone or black base products.
Spray bombs can be beneficial. Worldwide sales of $4 plus billion in that market segment tells you that, and for the mfg spray bombs are quite lucrative. Why? For the total amount of real finish coat in a spray bomb, which isn't much there is a nice profit. Nice profit.
Spray bombs are I think are good on smaller parts, parts than can be baked, parts that are on the car everything else cannot be taped off. Ever notice how a lot of car enthusiast are touching up their front suspension parts with spray bombs? Its like a woman getting perm, looks good for awhile but goes away in time. Rust and other outside outside chemicals, solvents, salt etc make their way thru spray can products at a much higher rate than other higher solids coatings.
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Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 03:30 PM
After spraying take the nozzle off & blast it out with a 1 second shot of brake kleen then replace it on the can & it'll be clean for the next time
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 03:46 PM
Quote:
Quote:
I just used a 99 center WallyWorld spray bomb on redoing a set of dumbells ....
Doc and Oldman got together and painted their nails!
Posted By: moparcyco
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 06:43 PM
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.I use the Premium commercial coating paint from Napa (Martin Senour)On small items I think this is a great compromise between spray bombs and shooting from a gun
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result...6Dp%3d3%26N%3d0
Posted By: RSNOMO
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 06:49 PM
I've gotten good longevity with Krylon Industrial primer...
With a topcoat of Red Devil urethane(which I don't believe is available anymore)...
Both rattle-can...
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 06:50 PM
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.
IF (and that's a BIG if) you catalyze the paint!
Posted By: moparcyco
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 08:23 PM
Quote:
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.
IF (and that's a BIG if) you catalyze the paint!
If you use enamel its mixed right in.But I am no paint genius do yo mean something besides the drier thats mixed in?I know a urethane has to have a hardener mixed before you spray.
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 09:23 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.
IF (and that's a BIG if) you catalyze the paint!
If you use enamel its mixed right in.But I am no paint genius do yo mean something besides the drier thats mixed in?I know a urethane has to have a hardener mixed before you spray.
There is no 'pre mixed' catalyzed paint that doesn't have a very short pot life (as in hours). The catalyst actually molecularly 'crosslinks' the dried paint molecules. That means the paint is literally a DIFFERENT compound than uncatalyzed paint. It's much tougher, much more chemically resistant etc.
Now you can take automotive paint (acrylic enamel, acrylic urethane etc) and spray it, and it will dry and look good, for awhile. But it will perform very poorly compared to the same paint that had the hardener added. Most notably in terms of oxidation and reaction to bird droppings, gasoline....etc.
Posted By: Yellow Fever
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/18/13 11:01 PM
I used the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Gloss spray cans for my Scampage engine bay and couldn't be happier if I were twins.
3+ years and still looks good.
Posted By: 2boltmain
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/19/13 02:58 PM
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.I use the Premium commercial coating paint from Napa (Martin Senour)On small items I think this is a great compromise between spray bombs and shooting from a gun
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result...6Dp%3d3%26N%3d0
Im beginning to question my memory but isnt there such a thing as a rechargeable aerosol can- recharged with an air compressor?I fix up motorcycles and leave the tank and side covers to a real paint guy but the fram and swingarms- if I could shoot them in acrylic enamel single stage black that would be great! To paint frames and swingarms requires so little paint that a spray can is very ideal.
Posted By: Challenger 1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/19/13 03:20 PM
Quote:
Quote:
There is always the option of a preval sprayer.Lets you have the convienence of a spray can with the quality and duability of automotive grader paint.I use the Premium commercial coating paint from Napa (Martin Senour)On small items I think this is a great compromise between spray bombs and shooting from a gun
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result...6Dp%3d3%26N%3d0
Im beginning to question my memory but isnt there such a thing as a rechargeable aerosol can- recharged with an air compressor?I fix up motorcycles and leave the tank and side covers to a real paint guy but the fram and swingarms- if I could shoot them in acrylic enamel single stage black that would be great! To paint frames and swingarms requires so little paint that a spray can is very ideal.
Yup,
although I have never used mine for that. Mine holds gasoline and I use it to start engines because it atomizes the fuel real well. It also got used with gas to start my alcohol injected engines too, way better than a dish soap bottle.
Works great on small engines, they start first pull.
Many folks(fans) over the years thought we were squirting NOS into my injected motors. I always tried to keep them guessing. lol
Also I was the first guy to show up with a pressurized gas primer(I've used this one and several others too) to start our cars. No one else that I ever raced with did that I ever saw back in the early 90s. And after we did it, everyone started using them with injected cars.
Posted By: dOc …
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/19/13 03:45 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I just used a 99 center WallyWorld spray bomb on redoing a set of dumbells ....
Doc and Oldman got together and painted their nails!
SHORTLY after posting this I thought some twisted-perv would mess with my post ....and I was correct ... 
Posted By: 2boltmain
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/19/13 03:54 PM
Challenger 1 where did you get that? Looks like youve had it awhile. Does it use the nozzles from disposable spray cans?
Posted By: Challenger 1
Re: Spray bombs - the truth ... - 05/19/13 04:26 PM
Quote:
Challenger 1 where did you get that? Looks like youve had it awhile. Does it use the nozzles from disposable spray cans?
Yes and Eastwood I believe sells them. I have had mine for 20 years.
I used it to start a pile of old wood limbs on fire one time collected from the yard. It got dark, I got drunk and it got lost in the yard for like 3 years. Buried under dirt and I found it and it still works. Quality tool for sure and you can replace the center pickup tube, o rings and stem.