Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 4 of 5 1 2 3 4 5
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425981
04/29/13 04:36 PM
04/29/13 04:36 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
As you can see that sharp turn at the top sucks on these manifolds...

7687115-image.jpg (111 downloads)

65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425982
04/29/13 11:03 PM
04/29/13 11:03 PM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
@
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@#$%&*!  Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
I wonder if you got one of those aftermarket carbs with too many emulsion holes and it's delaying the fuel signal. Holley's usually have two holes per main well, one just below fuel level and one down low. They're usually around 0.028".


Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: @#$%&*!] #1425983
04/29/13 11:36 PM
04/29/13 11:36 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
Mines got 4 or maybe 5!!! What? Please elaborate I know for sure it has 4....I'm pretty sure they are all open...I would say .020( this is a guess ) but I think you have to drill and tap them if you want to plug them...Or I can use some epoxy....

Mainly, what must be understood is that because the fuel discharge nozzle connects the venturi to the main well, whatever the low pressure (vacuum) is in the venturi, it is also the pressure in the main well. The air bleed is in the carb air horn or somewhere else where it is exposed to essentially atmospheric pressure, which is higher than the venturi pressure. This pressure difference causes air from the air bleed to flow through the emulsion system into the main well and to the nozzle. The flow of air can have very high velocities, approaching sonic in some orifices. The airflow literally blows the fuel toward and through the nozzle. A larger main air bleed will admit more air to the emulsion system and that can increase or decrease fuel flow to the engine. The size, number and location of the other air holes in the emulsion system, the size of the main well flow area, the size of the nozzle and the specific pressure difference at the moment are the determining factors. The ratios of air volume to fuel volume to flow area, with the air volume's expansion with the venturi velocity induced pressure reduction being the key. The bubbles expand as the pressure drop increases with airflow. Suck on an empty balloon to experience the effect.

The fuel flow through the main jet is the result of the pressure difference between the atmospheric pressure in the float bowl and the venturi air velocity induced vacuum acting on the nozzle and the main well. The venturi vacuum in the well is reduced (the pressure is raised) by the "air leak" from the air bleed. This reduces the pressure difference that causes the flow through the main jet. If the air bleed were big enough, the pressure in the well would be the same as in the float bowl and no fuel would flow. Think about drinking through a soda straw with a hole in it above liquid level. Bigger hole, less soda. Suck harder, not much more soda. Big enough hole, no soda. This is the means by which the emulsion system can "lean it out on the top end". Incidentally, the vacuum that lifts water up a soda straw is in the most sensitive operating range for emulsion systems.

It is in the lowest range of throttle opening, at the start of main system flow, that the effect of adjusting the introduced emulsion air (and it's effect in increasing the main fuel flow) is most critical. Small changes can have large and sometimes unexpected or counter-intuitive consequences. The goal is to seamlessly blend the rising main flow with the declining idle/transition system fuel delivery to accomplish smooth engine operation during opening of the throttle in all conditions, whether from curb idle or any higher engine speed. The high speed and load mixture correction is usually easily accomplished, in comparison.

The vertical location of the bleeds entering the main well influences the fuel flow in the following ways.

1: Orifices above float level or between the well and the nozzle allow bled air to raise the pressure (reduce the vacuum) in the nozzle and above the fuel in the well. That delays the initial start of fuel flow from the nozzle to a higher air flow through the venturi and is used to control the point in the early throttle opening where the main starts.

2: Orifices at float level increase low range (early throttle opening) fuel flow by carrying fuel with the airflow to the nozzle.

3: Orifices below float level increase fuel flow by the effect of lowering the level of fuel in the well to the hole(s) admitting air. This is like raising the float level a similar amount (increases the effect of gravity in the pressure difference across the main jet) and also adds to the airflow carrying fuel to the nozzle. Locating the orifices at different vertical positions influences this effect’s progression.

4: The "emulsion holes" influence is greatest at low flows and the "main air bleed" has most influence at high flows.

In the first three cases above, once fuel flow is established it is greater than it would be with fewer or smaller holes. Visualize wind blowing spray off of the top of water waves. It doesn’t take much pressure difference to cause the velocity of the airflow through the bleed orifices to have significant velocity in the orifice, even approaching sonic (1100 F.P.S.) if the orifices are small. The phenomena of critical flow is what limits the total air flow through an orifice and allows tuning by changing bleed size.

Essentially, the emulsion effect will richen the low flow and the air bleed size, main well and nozzle restrictions will control the increase or reduction of high flow. Again, the desired air/fuel ratio is the primary purpose of the bleed system. "Improved emulsion" is an oxymoron if the modification of air bleeds to "improve emulsion" results in an incorrect air/fuel ratio in some range of engine operation. Correct proportioning of all the different bleeds (and, of course, the idle, transition and power circuits) will give the correct air/fuel ratios over the total range of speeds and loads and a flat air/fuel ratio characteristic at wide open throttle

They used to call the main air bleed an "air corrector" because its function is to correct for RPM dependent AF ratios. There is a window of HS bleed sizes that will work with a particular combo that will allow a fairly flat AF curve — out side that window the fuel curve will tend to go richer or leaner with increasing RPM. In your case it sounds like the main air bleed is too big.

The other aspect of emulsion is the actual emulsion hole configuration. Emulsion holes effect the lower end of the RPM band and have the most influence over your air mixture just as the main circuit kicks in. Higher in the RPM band the high speed bleed has much more influence. The stock Holley two-hole setup has proven to work very well over the years and after a bunch of experimenting with my four-hole blocks I wound up at the stock Holley configuration.

If you talk with Tuner on the Innovate site, he'll tell you about how so many "new and improved" billet carbs suffer from too much emulsion air. That is to say, high speed bleeds that are too big and emulsion holes that are too many. I happen to agree with him, and based on the limited info you provided I would hazard to say that that your carb suffers from a classic case of this "too much and too many" syndrome.

For your setup I would suggest that you go back to a two hole emulsion setup with the top, middle and lowest holes plugged; the second from top and second from bottom holes should be .028". For a high speed bleed you may want to be smaller than you currently are to flatten out the top of your fuel curve but cannot recommend a size not knowing where you are at now.

Last edited by Jims340; 04/30/13 12:16 AM.

65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425984
04/30/13 08:18 AM
04/30/13 08:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Mattax Offline
top fuel
Mattax  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Quote:


Mainly, what must be understood is that because the fuel discharge nozzle connects the venturi to the main well, whatever the low pressure (vacuum) is in the venturi, it is also the pressure in the main well. ...... For a high speed bleed you may want to be smaller than you currently are to flatten out the top of your fuel curve but cannot recommend a size not knowing where you are at now.




Yes someone was channelling Mr Tuner who posted this on the Innovate forum, and now can sometimes be found at YB and speedtalk.
You can see the effect of the e-holes in the overlay of the logs I posted above. It shows the primaries made correct and the secondaries still needing work in the HSAB and e-holes.

Quote:

Mines got 4 or maybe 5!!! What? Please elaborate I know for sure it has 4....I'm pretty sure they are all open...I would say .020( this is a guess ) but I think you have to drill and tap them if you want to plug them...Or I can use some epoxy....



Drill and tap is better especially if running fuel with alch in it (street gas). But don't do that yet. Get the idle circuit responsive and producing power first! Otherwise you're trying to get the main circuit to do something it can't.

If you want to work on the mains, get up on the highway and see how it responds at 65mph, 3000 rpm. Small and large throttle movements should bring immediate response. disconnect the secondaries if you want to really be methodical. When you get back, see what the spark plugs can tell you although they will show the results of a mix of conditions so not ideal, but better than not looking at all.

Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: Mattax] #1425985
04/30/13 10:07 AM
04/30/13 10:07 AM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
Yea I copy and pasted from another site for anybody to read if interested... Some guys really have had a lot of practice with these carbs... I was reading about the emulsions and it seems a two hole circuit would probably be better for me..

Hell I had a regular downleg 750 Holley that ran 12.30's with a 360 small block 16 years ago in a 3680 lb challenger and it was all motor with Iron X heads. Only a .528/284 cam I was only 21 at the time...first car I built, and it would embarrass most big blocks...

My point here is All I did on that carb was block the front power valve and jetted it 78 front and 84 rear I believe....Car ran perfect....left hard pulled hard... Never even new what an emulsion hole was... I think I only had a 31 and 35 squirter in that thing

So I do believe after reading about these newer billet carbs with 4 emulsion holes....this may be why I'm having a problem going to wide open...And I have a blue pump cam with a 45 squirter? This is what doesn't fit... This carb is meant for the more precise tuner ( which is great) but I bet a regular old holley with a two hole circuit would give me less head aches...

Anyways. I've got the parts coming today I'll have everything back together and I'm going to check the timing mark.

I'm going to do some more reading on the emulsion circuits


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425986
04/30/13 02:03 PM
04/30/13 02:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 224
in the middle
D
dodger mope Offline
enthusiast
dodger mope  Offline
enthusiast
D

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 224
in the middle
the reason i sugested 2 shim washers under the accelerator spring is that i have run into a coulple non holley carbs that had weak springs. the Washers fixed one and almost fixed the other?

Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: dodger mope] #1425987
04/30/13 02:24 PM
04/30/13 02:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
I hear ya, but my springs are not weak...they only work slightly if I bottom out the lever to the squirter... So I've checked that


I'm going to throw the car on a dyno on the 11th....So I have a little time to get it ready....3 pulls and they are going to weld a bung into my collector for an O2 sensor for $140.00 I said heck yea!!

Last edited by Jims340; 04/30/13 02:27 PM.

65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425988
04/30/13 09:04 PM
04/30/13 09:04 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
My balancer is dead on... So that rules out the timing


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425989
04/30/13 11:32 PM
04/30/13 11:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Mattax Offline
top fuel
Mattax  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Those comments about too many e-holes has to be taken in context. The thing with 'Tuner', 'JMarkaudio' and especially 'Shrinker' is they wrote explanations to help people understand. So it is possibly true that this particular carb has too much air in the main well, but I don't see any information that establishes that yet.

You'll need to measure the highspeed air bleed, the kill bleed and the emulsion holes. When you go on the dyno and squeeze on the throttle at 3000 rpm, you'll find out if it might have issues with the main circuit fuel curve. With a manual valve body you'll be able to start at a lower rpm, but without they prefer if you don't let it kickdown so it has to be squeezed on.

If the emulsion holes are small enough, and the main bleed size is matched, 3 emulsion holes and a kill bleed might be OK. In any event, that is all in the main circuit. Without doing some slow rpm gentle accleration testing, I'm not sure why you're convinced that its the fault of the mains. For acclerator pump to work even half decently, the manifold walls have to be wet, and that comes with figureing out what timing and fuel the the engine wants at idle and off-idle.

As far as reading goes, I always recommend starting with Urich & Fisher's Holley Carburetors & Manifolds HP Books. It's useful even after reading the advanced stuff.

First page of the original post "Mr Tuner Sir, Holley Emulsion Holes?" at archive.org
Text from the whole post was retreived and archived here.
Also text from the followup thread More in depth e-hole discussion

More helpful to what I think your specific issue is in this archived post about timing and fuel .

If you like searching around, there's some good stuff from these same gentlemen, plus some other smart tuners from Braswell and Bo Laws if you dig for posts at Speedtalk and a few other places.

Since I won't have time type later on, let me suggest now that you do try to get the car ready to do the dyno test by making sure you can squeeze on the throttle and not have it die.

Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: Mattax] #1425990
05/01/13 12:06 AM
05/01/13 12:06 AM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
Maybe you are misunderstanding me... I do have a manual valve body by the way...

Ok,

I've got a vacuum gauge.. It came stock in 6 cylinder barracudas and it is about a 4" gauge... Very nice for tuning.

I've got the mixture screws about 1/4 to 1/2 out... On each... I've set them so I am pulling the most vacuum... Front transfer slot is squared... Timing at 30 at 800 RPM... I've set the idle so the plugs stay clean... Maybe a hint of fuel... If I rev the car it revs fine... If I take it for a drive it transitions great at any speed..as long as you don't floor it! From a stop to easing into the throttle... No sputters... No misses... At 50 MPH it hums along drives nice.. Come to a stop it idles great... 11" of vacuum in gear.. Cars is nice....

Now here's the problem when I floor it in second gear doing 45 MPH.. it sputters a bit then starts to pull... But doesn't pull that great. Same thing in third..
From a ten mile an our roll if I mash it... It sounds like its on a delay box... Da,da,da,da,da...

This is why I think it is main jet size, squirter size, pump cam length, or emulsion related.... Also HSAB .... This is why I am focused on wide open throttle... It doesn't have that BLAAAAAA scream that puts you in the seat if you nail it...

Hope I explained myself better...

Thanks for the help

7689455-image.jpg (128 downloads)

65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425991
05/01/13 12:26 AM
05/01/13 12:26 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,300
Northern Indiana
Dunnuck Racing Offline
master
Dunnuck Racing  Offline
master

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,300
Northern Indiana
There is a lot to be gained getting the emulsion circuit tuned correctly . The problem is it takes time to get things right and a couple pulls on a chassis dyno wont be enough.
I spent an entire day on my engine dyno dialing in a 1050 Dominator to gain 40 horsepower and as much torque.
That netted the customer4 mph and gained a tenth in his 60'.
Similar tuning on a 950 on a 12 second street car gained a tenth.
My personal race engine is gaining a much better torque curve currently dialing in the emulsion circuit and it is a QF950 with 4 emulsion hole blocks on it.
Using guidelines suggested on here may get you close,but eliminating the extra emulsion hole is a a quick and dirty fix.
Im not making claims of being a better tuner than those guys or anything at all like that. I have also seen some of these experts state that three circuit Dominators need the third circuit removed to work but that has been proven false by me and several other people too.
My point is,it can be made to work well,but its not as simple as a quick couple of pulls and some internet tricks.
Keith

Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: Dunnuck Racing] #1425992
05/01/13 09:41 AM
05/01/13 09:41 AM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral

My point is,it can be made to work well,but its not as simple as a quick couple of pulls and some internet tricks.


LOL SO TRUE! Hey thanks for the input Keith... After I dyno it and get that bung welded in the collector I'm sure I'll get a wide band and have it dialed in by the end of May I hope


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: Mattax] #1425993
05/01/13 12:30 PM
05/01/13 12:30 PM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
@
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@#$%&*!  Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
Quote:

Those comments about too many e-holes has to be taken in context.




The original poster gets to decide the context and his problem is with heavy throttle. Some select quotes are pertinent: "from a 10 MPH roll I nail it and it sputters like a delay box", "I disconnected the secondaries and it still sputters", "Its a quick fuel annular..31 HSAB 70 IAB", "Car idles great good vacuum, responds fantastic in neutral goes to 6 grand in a half of second.. at cruise and part throttle feels great...when I floor it....it sputters for a second or two....then starts t pull" I'll quote his entire first and second posts below in an attempt to steer the thread back on track.
There was no request for a complete dissertation on Holley tuning and he's provided plenty of info to point to the main circuit as the problem. He's already played with jetting and power valves, the main air bleed is fine where it is (though it might be better at 0.028") so I suggested the emulsion holes, which it sounds like I was right that he has metering blocks with lots of extra holes. I provided a typical Holley setup that is known to work for many. Other than that maybe there's a spiders nest in a booster or someone has molested the carb in some way.

Original post:

"I have 13" of vacuum...so I'm good....from a 10 MPH roll I nail it and it sputters like a delay box....checked voltage to coil and it was fine...put a new coil on and it ran the same...tried timing from 30 to 40 degrees.... same chit...I've got 45 squirters in it because if I go smaller it is worse... I have tried 70 jets in the front....with a 4.5 power valve..9.5 power valve...tried 75 jets....now i have the power valve blocked with 78 jets....same chit.... I disconnected the secondaries and it still sputters.... I can not figure this thing out.... wish I had a wide band...My next thing is to see if there is crap in the carb some where...
"

OP's follow up post:

"Its a quick fuel annular..
31 HSAB
70 IAB
single plenum intake with Nitrous plate
Holley HP 150 7 PSI of fuel to the carb
Car idles great good vacuum, responds fantastic in neutral goes to 6 grand in a half of second.. at cruise and part throttle feels great...

when I floor it....it sputters for a second or two....then starts t pull
but feels like a 15 second car.... I tried 80 jets in the rear and 75's up front with a power valve.... but it felt down on power...it pulled better with 87 jets in the rear"

Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: @#$%&*!] #1425994
05/01/13 07:58 PM
05/01/13 07:58 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
Yes I am 99% sure it is a emulsion tune deal I am dealing with here....and thanks for bringing this up because no one else did. I thought my balancer spun a litttle but since that's not the case... I think we are getting closer.

I cleaned up my intake with a grinder and matched it to the heads a little better, I had to pull it off because I had an oil leak out the back so I cleaned it up while I had it off.

Tomorrow I will play with the 50 squirters I received and the main jets and try to tune for a light brown plug at wide open....

Definitely feel some emulsion hole and air bleed tuning is in my future...

After what I read about the top emulsion hole and sending the signal to the boosters earlier I am going to raise the floats to the top of the sight glass and see if this helps get the mains on a little faster...

To be honest after reading your quotes from this thread it sounds like i'm lean at first....then fat... because it studders then doesn't pull that hard

LOL and no spiders nest in boosters...I bought this carb brand new...and I blew out every hole with compressed air trying to figure this thing out....

Thank You

Last edited by Jims340; 05/01/13 10:46 PM.
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425995
05/04/13 08:11 PM
05/04/13 08:11 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
FWIW.

I installed the intake after porting the runners to match the heads and cleaning up the plenum...

Put a 1" open spacer above the NOS plate....

Started it up and had to lean out all of the mixture screws about a 1/4 turn to get my vacuum where it used to be.

I thought with the spacer it would need to be fattened up a bit but it seems to pull a little better signal now.

I have read that these M1 syle low plenum intakes run better with a spacer.

I have not tried it out yet but I will tomorrow with nice weather. Need to get it ready for the dyno next Saturday...


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425996
05/06/13 08:28 PM
05/06/13 08:28 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
Ok, All I did was match the ports to the heads a little better, cleaned up the plenum, Installed a 1" open spacer and the stutter completely went away... I did not touch the carb...same vacuum same squirters...

I tried it in first and it will light the tires now....I did it 3 times.... once from a stop and it smoked them through first gear....I put a new plug in the n0 4 cylinder to test it out.... at cruise, part throttle and idle the plugged stayed nice with a hint of tan. After I did the 3 hole shots I pulled the plug and it was a little black...Now I can tune for more power because the plugs had some black on them... I am going to jet down to 74 front from 76......and 83 rear from 85....try a new plug and see.

Thanks for all the help and ideas


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425997
06/13/13 05:30 PM
06/13/13 05:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
I FOUND IT!!!!!!!!!!!!! FOR A YEAR AND A HALF I COULD NOT GET THIS CAR TO LEAVE.

When you squirt the rear squirters manually by hand you can see fuel coming out the transfer slot on the passenger side rear....also if you do it fast it comes out the Idle air bleed on that side also...

SO is it the wrong gasket? It looks ok? Bad metering block?

Any guesses?


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1425998
06/13/13 07:18 PM
06/13/13 07:18 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,013
South Park, Pa.
68LAR Offline
master
68LAR  Offline
master

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,013
South Park, Pa.
Quote:

When you squirt the rear squirters manually by hand you can see fuel coming out the transfer slot on the passenger side rear....also if you do it fast it comes out the Idle air bleed on that side also...



Sounds like either a warped metering block or you don't have the bowl bolts tight enough. Could be wrong gasket, but doubt it.


4 speed street legal. Best time 10.99 @ 124 mph on 93 octane pump gas @ 3926# total weight
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 68LAR] #1425999
06/13/13 08:05 PM
06/13/13 08:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
65 DODGE POST Offline OP
member
65 DODGE POST  Offline OP
member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Cape Coral
I called quick fuel and they are going to fix it for free... I told them I have been all over this carb for over a year and I could never get the car to leave... it also went lean at 5000 RPM.... Now that I had to buy a wide band....

I'm ticked because of all the time and money I threw at it with extra power valves,pump cams, squirters, wide band...this carb ended up costing me a lot...

But at the same time I'm happy because when I get it back I can finally tune the thing right..

The bowls are plenty tight and tried different gaskets... I think they drilled a whole to deep in the metering block some where. If I take the squirters off and hold my finger over the front one I can not manually push the pump arm down.... When I plug the secondary and depress the rear pump arm it squirts out the transfer slot and out the IAB...Only reason I never noticed was because it shot some out the squirtes also but most out the transfer slot.

No wonder I could not get the car to leave unless i had a 74 jet in the front... Anyway I finally am going to be able to enjoy this thing when I get it back... I think it will run in the 12's on motor


65 DODGE CORONET 440 INDY EZ HEADS STRANGE S60
Re: QUICK FUEL DRIVING ME NUTS...HELP [Re: 65 DODGE POST] #1426000
06/13/13 08:31 PM
06/13/13 08:31 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,013
South Park, Pa.
68LAR Offline
master
68LAR  Offline
master

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,013
South Park, Pa.
I've been running a Quick Fuel 1050AN for years and after some tuning it has been flawless for me. It's a nice carb and a good company to deal with. I hope everything works out for you.


4 speed street legal. Best time 10.99 @ 124 mph on 93 octane pump gas @ 3926# total weight
Page 4 of 5 1 2 3 4 5






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1