Stick with it... you'll get it..... turn up the timing
by ear and see if it comes to life.. dont get carried away

If you want to check out the timing mark question, that makes sense. On a standard balancer with elastomeric ring, a stripe or two painted like a spoke will help spot if the outer ring is starting to shift around.

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I've got the front transition slot at a perfect square.... The rear is real close also... I set the idle with the rear... It holds 13" of vacuum in park and 11" in gear.... From my past experience... when a car responds great in neutral...then you put a load on the motor and it fumbles it is lean...

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Sounds good. Seems like we're all in agreement. So the thing to do is seperate the low speed circuit responses from the main circuit action. That's why I recommended the low speed testing. See if there's an issue with the low speed circuit near the bottom, then near the top of the transition. Accelerator pumps are needed to respond quick while still using the idle/transition circuit.

Once the carb is primarily on the mains, the accelerator pumps are no needed. So if you're driving steady at 3000 rpm in 3rd and give stab it to 3/4 or full throttle with secondaries disconnected, it will respond instantly. Full will of course kick open the PV as well. 3/4 depends on the PV setting and engine. To do the same with the secondaries requires the secondaries to already be open at cruise and thats hard to do except on a road course (or if using 1:1 linkage).
You probably know this, but if not, there it is.

Float bowl level. You got it. Holley traditional aftermarket carbs were set with a baseline near the bottom of the site plug. Other brands and now even some of Holley's products have repositioned the site plug and come with the clear window.

FWIW, a number of years ago I had QF install annular boosters in a 3310-3. This was before they and BG were offering a similar product and yup they had put a pink cam in. No good. First I had to restrict the IFR a bit, then restrict the Idle Air bleed to keep it richer further up the transition. After that was decent, did some testing on a chassis dyno with and without the secondaries. Very helpful - the three emulsion holes were too much. Ended up plugging the middle one and the beginning of the fuel curve got nice and flat. Then saw similar issue with the secondaries. Easy to see with the vacuum secondaries because its easy to change their starting point - and then finally the light bulb goes on in the brain. (In picture attached see the secondaries just starting between 3000 and 4000, full throttle is at the first marker based on the vacuum, about 3900 rpm).
edit here>As a result the middle emulsion holes in the secondary block were blocked off. Before reducing the emulsion holes more, the lean drift was hopefully addressed by reducing the secondary main air bleeds. Have not had a chance to fully prove that. The secondary boosters on this carb are downlegs, so its not the exact same situation, but something to be aware of as you tune in.

PS. On timing, might be worth your trouble to map out the entire curve. 700 rpm to 3000 rpm.
PSS. My combo is not too far off from yours - 340 with stock heads but similar compression and duration but standard rockers. Its run high 13s, 97-99mph, heavier car, shorter tires, same gearing, poor traction at the line (suspension set up for autocross not 1/4 mile).

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.....and I want to thank all you guys for responding so quick...must be the Mopar Blood...except for that slow blue 440 B body that only runs 11's

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I caught that. That slow "B" body weighs 700+# more than yours and is a stick car and runs on 93 octane pump gas. NO happy gas! Plus I was trying to help too. Just went a different direction than others, based on my past experience.

Haha! I had to Raz you..... after the 15 sec car comment... Thanks for the help.

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Haha! I had to Raz you..... after the 15 sec car comment... Thanks for the help.

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Jim have you tried a "known good" carb yet to rule out all the other issues discussed here? You have to know somebody with a Holley carb on their car that will let you bolt it on and eliminate alot of your questions
Gus

Have you tried "known good" gas??? Bad fuel can really drive you crazy!

I wish I had another one...There is a guy down the street with a 69 camaro....haha No Thanks...

I had a predator carb on here last year...That was the best responding carb I ever played with in my life...It was neat..only thing that stunk was when I came to a stop or turned fast the thing would die sometimes I could not figure it out... I tried a baffle, some foam, nothing worked...I sold it on ebay with my Holley 650 vacuum secondary so I could buy this quick fuel carb.

The 650 vacuum secondary definitely was better than my quick fuel in first gear... I could lite the tires from a roll in first gear with the 650 vacuum secondary.... but the car wouldn't really pull hard up top. I also had exhaust manifolds on the car at the time. It ran a 14 flat with the exhaust manifolds...I was so disapointed but The exhaust manifolds on v8 barracudas only have a 1 7/8" I.D. at the outlet that mates to the head pipe. This was in November last year.. So I sold my carbs ordered headers, the quick fuel annular, and a Zex NOS system. I got the headers on which I never want to do in one of these cars again....took me two days...You have to pull the steering,lift the motor, pull both torsion bars....I couldn't believe it...Anyways.. I got the quick fuel on took it to the track and it ran a high 13.... but it would run out of fuel in second gear cause I had a stock napa pump on it..One time it completely died in 3rd going down the track... I had it jetted with 72 from and 80 rear... I drove it home and was even more ticked because the season was over. So last month I installed a new 3/8 pick up a new Holley 150 HP and a 3/8s line to the carb...I've got a constant 6.5-7 lbs to the carb now for sure.

I installed the blue pump cam in the front this morning and the orange in the rear... It definitely feels better as the sputter is almost completely gone. I test it in 3rd gear with my foot on the brake and the converter goes to 3900 and holds.

I also pulled the number one spark plug and with a flashlight bumped the starter to bring the piston up on the compression stroke and it sure looks that my damper is on the money... I've got the timing locked at about 37 degrees and the car doesn't miss when I hold it at 3-4000.... I do have about 8.5-9.0:1 compression..It may be better I have yet to try it out... roads were wet today..

Well I just backed it down the street.... I have 76 front and 85 rear....I got it up to 10 MPH in first and nailed it....It sounds just like a car on a box at the track....da,da,da,da,da,da,da,da,da, for about 2 seconds...... No Black smoke? So I am taking off the pump arm as it looks like I am not getting full travel with the blue pump cam....

I'll report back

heres my 2 cents,put 2 washers under the bottom of the pump spring.it wont cost much and you might be surpised

Sounds like not enough fuel from the idle circuit and too much initial advance because of the locked set up. That might be OK on a more radical cam and higher compression, but this (locked at 37) only reinforces the too lean theory (at 10 mph) we discussed at the top of this page.

Yea... But if I set it at 30 it does it also... I ordered a piston stop checker and a .050 squirter... It will be here Tuesday... So I'll know where I'm at on the timing.. I have a feeling it may be off a little ... Once I know for sure about the timing I can play with the carb some more ... Thanks

Have you talked to Sean at QF.. he set up my E-85
dom and it was pretty much dead on(I jetted up 2 sizes)
but he should give you a good idea where to set up
the carb... might be worth the time

Actually I have a two wire distributor... 50 dollar special from eBay . It has mechanical advance where you bend the tabs to limit the total... Mine only advances 5 degrees
So it's set at 33 idle and goes to 37- 38 above 2000 rpm, but it seems I can set the timing at 45 degrees and the car runs good... My next purchase should probably be a better distributor.

No, maybe ill ask for him if I can't figure this thing out this week. Last time I called the guy sounded like he wanted to get off the phone... He was telling me to go smaller on the primary jets and go bigger with th PVCR's but if I go smaller on the jets the car will bog worse... I think the larger jet helps the fuel come out the mains a little quicker as opposed to smaller jets and larger pvcr... That split second helps... I have a power valve block sitting here I may try to square jet this thing this week.
But first I want to check this balancer

30 at idle is almost the same as 37 in this context!
With that duration and size engine, something between 14 and 20 degrees, 600 to 900 rpm. I'd start at 17-18 around 800rpm if you can get it to idle there. For what you are doing, an old direct connection tach drive distributor would be great. Acts almost like a locked, but gets you the idle and keeps away any retard at the top. if you can get one at a decent price, it would be worth it. Unfortunately some sellers think they are worth their weight gold. IMO, they're not, there's other ways to get similar results.

Gosh, it sounds like you got the same type of 'help' I got 4 years ago from QF. They've got some good product, but maybe this guy Sean will get you on the right track. The PV and jetting has little to do with what is happening at 10 mph. At 10 and even 30 mph you can drive with no jets installed. Only when the idle restriction is fairly large and the main jets very small will the main jetting effect the idle and transistion circuit.

PS. Looks like the same boosters they installed in my carby.

Ok for kicks I'm going to bring the timing down to 18... And idle at 800 which it already is in gear.

I will only pull 11" of vacuum then, in gear 10

A 10 MPH roll in my car is probably 1300 RPM...
I'm looking to light the tires from there to wide open throttle when I stab it.
A car is no fun unless it can light the tires from a roll.

What I am trying to do is get the boosters to pull fuel as quick as I can.. And also the correct amount. That and with the squirter amount from both the front and rear all has to gel together... All in about 1/2 second... With my converter this carb should be way easier to tune than it is... If I had a tighter converter I would have bought a 650.

Maybe these guys sold me a 950 instead...

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A car is no fun unless it can light the tires from a roll.

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Hahaha
I hear ya, but first tune the carb at steady state, then come back and fill in the gap with the pump shots. Frankly if you reset idle and try this as a test, it may go briefly but will probably dog as soon as it gets to 2000 rpm or so since the dizzy only going to be at 23*.

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I will only pull 11" of vacuum then, in gear 10

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Not surprising with that compression and cam. Mine's about 9.5" cold in or out of gear, about 11 when warmed. Previous engine was 230/230 @ 50 and pulled a little more vac but not much.

So if you want to test out the idle circuit with 18 or so degrees, then adjust the idle fuel. Then see how it accelerates with LITTLE throttle inputs.

expalantion: It's not just the timing. It's that the super advanced timing runs nice with a lean mix that is so slow in burning. Unfortunately, it doesn't make hardly any power. Remember its not lean down at idle because of the carb, it's lean because the cylinder is half filled with exhaust due to the cam timing. Add to that relatively low compression and its a cold burn. This is why engines with hot cams idle best with richer mixtures (12 to 13:1 A/F). As the rpms climb the engine wants leaner except when under high load (approaching wide open throttle).

At idle, the transfer slots should show .20 - 0.30 below the throttle plate. Adjusting the mixture screws should make a difference in idle. If not, that has to be solved first. Best idle (use a vac gage and tach) once the oil is warm should be with the mix screws somewhere between 1/4 and 2 turns out. Set them an 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the rich side of best when out of gear.

Then try 10-30 mph light accelerations. If it still needs more fuel, experiment with reducing the idle air bleeds. You can do that by sticking some wires in them if they are not the screw out type. Run the wire down over the aircleaner gasket so they can't come out. if you want to see what they do in the garage, put your finger on them. Engine should a bit rich and slow down.

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What I am trying to do is get the boosters to pull fuel as quick as I can.. And also the correct amount. That and with the squirter amount from both the front and rear all has to gel together... All in about 1/2 second...

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True true true, but the smartest carb tuners I've met zero in each system seperately. On 4150 style carbs, the systems build on each other, so they try to start at the idle, then primary transition, then primary main. Personally, I usually get mains close and then go to PV with main and then come back to mains alone. If you can leave the secondaries out of it until you get the primaries working, its much easier to get at least ballpark.

addition: So as you probably know, to get on the boosters there needs to be enough velocity in the venturi as the throttle plate is nearing the top of the transfer slot. In my experience, on 24" tires with 3:23 gears, the throttle is nearing the top of the transitions slot about 50 - 60 mph. Talking steady driving speeds here. If you hit the gas a 70 mph, accelerator pump is not needed (ignoring the secondaries which will need a shot since they are starting from closed or near closed). Point is there is no way around getting the idle-transfer system working decent. Then you can look at booster starting if it is an issue. Factors there will be fuel level, emulsion holes and main air bleed.

I pulled the intake, going to do a little port work to the plenum.. As it has a sharp ridge at the top... Going to round it off