No needed I just hope it is informative to anyone else who cares to try it...I think your gonna really like it..

if I understand you correctly, I have to ask, do you have the master switch plugged in?
If not, then that is why it doesn't work.
You must have the 4 way, a working 4 way plugged in as well.

Yes that's correct Andrew. Even though I knew better, I got ahead of myself and on the passenger side door had removed the factory wiring (leading back to the master switch), which is certainly the problem. Like I said, I'll get it all worked out tomorrow.



Darren

You expected it to be difficult...It's really not..

It might have been me who suggested using two SPDT relays to take the load off the switches for the power windows. If I recall correctly, the yellow wire in the switch harness is a direct +12v source comming from the window switch relay (power only on when ignition switch is on), and then going to a circuit breaker that gets power from the ammeter connection in the dash.
If you tap (splice) into that yellow wire for power you won't need to add any new wires.
The rest if the connections are just made to the factory motor connector. Seperate the factory connector going to the motor, and the side that goes to the switches is now used to energize each side if the relay, the connector wires going to the motor now connect the the high current part of the relay (the common side.) On the SPDT relay, one side is connected to the +12v power from the yellow wire, the other throw is connected to ground. Each relay will have two ground connections one for the relay coil and the other to groung the wingow motor through the relay. The idea is that both normally closed contacts of the relay(s) are grounded, so both wires to the motor are grounded when no window switch is pressed. When you press the window switch, you only apply +12 volts to one relay at a time for up or down because when the 12 volts energizes one relay, the relay switch breaks its ground contact and switches the the +12 volts supplied from the yellow wire, while the other relay stays grounded.
The relays will need to be grounded to the door, and my door seems to get a good ground through the hinges, but you could add a ground wire if your having trouble getting a ground.

Anyhow, I hope that helps explain the workings. It looks like you have a good idea of what to do, and that connector looks really nice. If you need more help I could draw up a schematic with the realy terminals identified.

If you can find these Potter & Brumsfield VBA-1001 relays they are pretty nice for this application, they really reduce the number of connections, but they also use a special plug connector. The only source I found for these was TYCOs authorized distrubitor.


If you were wiring this relay in this is where the connections would go:
After disconnecting the two wire connector goint to the window motor...
A & F - connect to the switch side wires.
B & E - connect to the motor side wires.
C - connects to +12 volt 12 AWG yellow wire.
D - connects to ground.
my photo is not real clear, but 'D' is the upper connections and jumps over the connection that is 'C'.

Picture of the connector end:

Thanks for adding the link. Your right the regular SPDT relays are way easier to get and can be wired with regular lug connectors if you don't have the relay socket. That is how I originally wired my car.

The VBA-1001 connector shell is unique, but the connectors are fairly standard lug connectors, very simular setup as the bulkhead connector, the lug connectors just snap into the shell, no special crimping tool required.

If you buy the 'T' connectors that mate to the motor/switch connector it makes the installation nearly a simple plug-in deal with the only other connections needed is to attach the ground wire and to tap into the +12 volt yellow power wire.

Also looking at the photo of the dual relay setup, the 87a wires should be larger gauge as they have to handle the same current as the +12 volt side.

Oops, sorry I missed your reply. I just looked at that photo.

Do you know a good source for the "T" shaped connectors that would fit the wiring connector at the motor? I was looking at some from molex, but I haven't verified they are the correct size and style (some are friction fit and some have the locking tab?)

OK guys, got it all together today and the windows are working. I've got to replace the grounds with some heavier gauge wire, as stated above, but they ARE working. As suspected, my original photo shows how to correctly wire the relays, but the factory harness has to be there (which was where I screwed up yesterday).

Thanks guys

Darren

First

Second 451Mopar try here... http://www.keefeperformance.com/packard56.html

If your look through the rest of that site they carry allot of cool stuff..

Bump just because it's good info & I'd hate to see it fall off the board.... It would be nice to see this archived for those who could use it in the future...