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drive line geometry shim specs #1419330
04/13/13 11:19 PM
04/13/13 11:19 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 245
Western PA
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OldMoparMan Offline OP
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Western PA
I have been working on my vibration problem which I believe is coming from the drive line angles being off on acceleration it's bad and on braking it's worse around 30 to 40 mph.

I have found that the tranny is 2* down, the driveshaft is 3.5* down and the rear end is 0* so I believe I need a set of 2* shims to get the rear end up to the exact opposite of the tranny.

Am I correct in thinking if I make a 5" long shim with a 2* angle it would correct the rearend angle or does anyone have a set they can measure for me.


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Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419331
04/14/13 12:01 AM
04/14/13 12:01 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT Offline
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You could make a shim on you could just buy one already made just for that purpose...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?_nkw...=mtr&_rdc=2


"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419332
04/14/13 12:51 AM
04/14/13 12:51 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,160
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Quote:

I have been working on my vibration problem which I believe is coming from the drive line angles being off on acceleration it's bad and on braking it's worse around 30 to 40 mph.

I have found that the tranny is 2* down, the driveshaft is 3.5* down and the rear end is 0* so I believe I need a set of 2* shims to get the rear end up to the exact opposite of the tranny.

Am I correct in thinking if I make a 5" long shim with a 2* angle it would correct the rearend angle or does anyone have a set they can measure for me.






No mention of the vehicle?...I'll assume your working on a 66-72 Mopar?, leaf spring equipped?...if so, be aware the Mopar rear pinion rotates upward on acceleration, anywhere from 2 to 4 degrees, seeing that your engine/driveline angle is 2 degrees tailshaft down, and your pinion is 0, you should start with a 2 degree shim, POINTING THE PINION NOSE DOWNWARD, so that upon acceleration/forward mode the pinion will rotate upwards to no more than 2 degrees NOSE UP, putting it on a parallel with the engine/driveline, this should also yield you a 1 degree or more u joint angle deflection which is the minimum required for proper u joint orientation....


When most see this driveline orientation pic, what is not mentioned, is that this is the ideal configuration at ACCELERATION where the pinion is rotated

Mike

7667207-2joint_angle.gif (67 downloads)
Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419333
04/14/13 01:56 AM
04/14/13 01:56 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 197
Nor-Cal
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loaderpro Offline
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Here is an easy way to measure, Under no circumstances should the pinion ever be allowed to rotate to a positive angle! The easiest way for a novice to set pinion angle is to get an inclinometer, about 20-25 bucks at most hardware stores. Jack the car up and support it, the rear end must be at ride height, level the driveline to zero, now put the inclinometer on a machined surface such as the pad where the pinion snubber sits and read the number. With the driveline at zero, set the rear end as follows,
5-8 degrees negative, leaf springs
2-3 degrees negative, ladder bars
1-2 degrees negative, 4 link
You state you have 3.5 degrees of driveline angle and a zero pinion which gives you 3.5 degrees of pinion angle, so a 2 degree shim would put ito the ball park, if it is a high torque combination then put in a little more shim.
Remember, Pinon angle is set for the pinion in relationship to the drive line, not what comes out of the transmission.
Ideally you would like to see zero degrees under load but the results for this are very minimal and not worth a lot of time.

7667258-sears.jpg (55 downloads)
Last edited by loaderpro; 04/14/13 02:19 AM.
Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419334
04/14/13 10:30 AM
04/14/13 10:30 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
indiana
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mcmopars Offline
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indiana
Quote:

I have been working on my vibration problem which I believe is coming from the drive line angles being off on acceleration it's bad and on braking it's worse around 30 to 40 mph.

I have found that the tranny is 2* down, the driveshaft is 3.5* down and the rear end is 0* so I believe I need a set of 2* shims to get the rear end up to the exact opposite of the tranny.

Am I correct in thinking if I make a 5" long shim with a 2* angle it would correct the rearend angle or does anyone have a set they can measure for me.








leave it alone,you are good where its at.see dr diff if you dont believe

Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: mcmopars] #1419335
04/14/13 10:34 AM
04/14/13 10:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
indiana
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mcmopars Offline
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indiana
the rear will raise 2 under load so that will put you at where you need to be

Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419336
04/14/13 11:17 AM
04/14/13 11:17 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
Quote:

the tranny is 2* down, the rear end is 0*


what Mac said, you're near dead on on the angles. I'd pull the shaft & check the joints & the bushing in the trans


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: drive line geometry shim specs [Re: OldMoparMan] #1419337
04/14/13 11:33 AM
04/14/13 11:33 AM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 245
Western PA
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OldMoparMan Offline OP
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 245
Western PA
The car is my 74 Dart Sport all original mounting locations and oem style mounts the only part that's different is the back springs. I'm checking it on jack stands under the K frame and differential housing at ride height.

The part I wasn't sure about was the deflection of the pinion under load. When I check it tomorrow I'll jack the pinion nose up 2* and if I understand this I should have between 1-2* angle from tranny tail to shaft and shaft the pinion for correct geometry.

This differential was never in the car correctly from the factory, when I removed it from the original springs I found one pin in the perch correct and the other pin was pulled into the perch about 1/2" off, It was very noticeable at the U joints with the exposed threads being different lengths, If I remember correctly one side was back the 1/2" in the wheel opening.


Living with ALS help support the search for a cure
Thanks http://web.alsa.org/site/TR/Walks/WesternPennsylvania?team_id=347781&pg=team&fr_id=12069






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