hello, i'm a new member, i drive a 66 charger 383/torqueflight/suregrip/factory a/c car. i have a question about my tranny's valve body if it's ok. i seem to be having a pretty loud whinning noise from my tranny and smells like burning fluid also. noise isn't all the time only in top gear and only after i get on the accelerator pretty good and keep the rpms up. just pulled the pan and filter today and the fluid and filter looked pretty good, nothing to really worry about. i'm gonna pull my cooler lines and blow them out and i was wondering if i should pull the valve body? i'm not really worried about taking it out however i've never done it before and i don't know how big of a pain it would be to take it out, take it apart, clean it and put it back in. or even if it's worth the time, from underneath with it in it looks clean and without any noticeable problems. any thoughts on the whole thing? any help would be appreciated. JZ.

I'm not the right person to be answering this because I'm certainly no expert on 727's....

But...

I did pull the valve body on my Monaco cop car to change the seal on the selector shaft. It was pretty easy. There's a rod that comes out with it that kind of "snaps" out and back in....think of a cup and ball fit...I think it's for the "park" position. There was really nothing to it and it bolted right back in, no shifting or transmission issues. If I can do it, I'm sure you can.

Good luck.

thanks for the response. how about throttle pressure or kickdown levers. can i get to the bolts on the outside of the case while the tranny is still in the car? anything out of the ordinary there that i might need to know? thanks again. JZ.

have you tried adjusting the TP linkage?

how does it shift? any slipping?

pan was clean correct? no shavings?

yes,you can reach the 7/16 bolts on each lever to remove them, remove linkage from levers/then remove levers. now the VB ready to come out. when you have them off and in hand,take time to stick a flat blade screw drive in the slot to open it up for ease of install.

12 bolts drop the VB,if the park rod does not want to come out,turn the drive shaft as you pull rod till it pops out when pawl lines up.

now would be a good time to change the 1 1/4 shift shaft seal in the case along with TV shaft seal under the E-clip/washer on the VB.

a small bolt/nut with 2 flat washers a little bigger than the seal work good for pulling the seal into the case while in the car/truck.

with the VB down i like to try and see how the front/rear band looks. (they will make noise when metal to metal) and do the band adjustment with the VB out. much ez-er to see the bolt counting turns...torque to 72 inch pounds and back off 2-2.5 turns. lock it down.

do the rear band next same way.

make sure to readjust the TV linkage when you get it back together.

I dont know how to fix them but I have broke/changed many and have serviced/chased leaks on all of my junk.

IIRC,the VB bolts need torqued to 72 inch pounds when it goes back in.

Welcome! I would not drop the valve body or anything else & I'd wait for Kunkel to come to (which might not be till Mon or Tues) & see what he has to say as he's the man on 727's.

ok thanks for the responses. the pan had only a little material in it, probably normal wear and tear. filter was very clean, the fluid was red but smelled burned only when hot. valve body looks clean from underneath with it in. guess my question is if i unhook the linkage from outside the case, when i put it back in will i have to make any adjustments to those linkages? just trying to get as much in put as possible. any and all input will help. thanks again. JZ

the mechanical linkage will hold the adjustment setting when you un-hook them from the levers.

so R&R the linkage/levers and test drive.

I myself like to go over the TV adjustment anytime I drop the VB just to make sure it is spot on.

this adjustment is key to longevity of a mopar trans. it is very important to have it adjusted correctly when trouble shooting anything on a mopar trans.

ok, hopefully this is my last tranny question. I drained the pan and the torque converter, changed the filter, did not pull the valve body (decided since i didn't have any erratic shifting not to), and adjusted the rear and low band. i also adjusted the shifter linkage near the tranny case (pulled it all the way back til there was no slack at all). now everything seems good except for when i shift it in reverse it might seem to go into gear a little hard same when i then shift it into drive. also when i then go to shift it back into park i need to push it kinda hard or it will want to stay in a neutral position, meaning it would role instead of parking. now is the parking problem the shifter linkage or the rear and low band, and if it's the band does it need the screw to be tightened in or loosened out? and is the hard shifting into reverse and drive the rear and low band and again tightening or loosening the screw? appreciate any help, and thanks for the answers so far. JZ.

just my $.02, a 727 is going to engage hard. I believe later models tried to reduce this by using things like wavy snap rings to make engagement softer. Obviously it's impossible to tell over the internet if yours is OK, or if there is something odd. a lot gets lost in translation

However, if you have a very fast idle speed, engagement is like doing a mini neutral-drop. make sure you are idling at the right speed.

sounds like the gear selector may be a bit off still

well at this point i don't really think it engaging hard is a problem but it does engage hard. now that could be normal but it could also be just an adjustment. if it is engaging hard would i go from 2 1/2 turns after 72 in lbs on the low and reverse band nut to 3 or back to 2? as far as my shifter adjustment it's as far back as it will go on the linkage, is there another adjustment to be made on that? thanks JZ.

The band adjustment has nothing to do with harsh engagement in Drive because no bands are used.

I don't understand your shift linkage adjustment "pulled it all the way back til there was no slack at all".