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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: moparrulzzz]
#1417479
04/09/13 07:54 PM
04/09/13 07:54 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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If that's an online video would you post it. A old OE dist will work fine as bushing wear is negligible in a non points dist & only difficulty is having to go inside each time to adj the slots or springs but when you're done you're done. Grab a light spring from any parts dist you have & a mr gasket 925B or MP light spring kit & use one of em instead of the thick heavy spring with the long loop on one end. Then set initial with the vacuum gauge method then with that figure in hand set the total (slots) with vac adv disconnected/plugged. then work with springs then hookeup/adj vac adv. See if you can retrieve prior threads on this (I tried & no luck with the search function)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: JohnRR]
#1417482
04/09/13 08:24 PM
04/09/13 08:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 509
Middle River, MD
Mapandjlp
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 509
Middle River, MD
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Quote:
Do you have an old points distributor kicking around , use the springs from it . None of the replacement spring kits I have ever seen have the stock springs. I save old distributors so I have parts when I need them.
Not to hijack, but do you know what RPM the points springs come in at?
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: Mapandjlp]
#1417483
04/09/13 08:31 PM
04/09/13 08:31 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,727
Florida
BDW
master
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master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,727
Florida
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: moparrulzzz]
#1417484
04/09/13 08:42 PM
04/09/13 08:42 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Using both MP light springs will let it start advancing at ~600 RPM, way too low in most apps. I would take both of em out & sub in both of the OE springs from one of your parts dists then set your initial with the "vacuum gauge method" then with that math figure in hand shorten the slots to get 35 total (SB) & 36 to 38 total (BB) with vac adv disconnected/plugged then adjust the springs then hookup/adjust the vac adv & the procedure for the springs and vac adv is too long to type out again when it's there in the search function somewhere I just dont have any luck with the search function. then tossing the heavy spring with the elongated loop on one end & subbing back in ONE of your MP light springs & keeping the OE light spring will be a good start. Not sure why there's no new MP dist available except that they might be on back order but imnho you dont need one, you're set with what you have.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: Mapandjlp]
#1417486
04/09/13 08:53 PM
04/09/13 08:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
Not to hijack, but do you know what RPM the points springs come in at?
Hijack away it's all for the greater good. Actually it's not dependant on if it's a point or electronic dist. A single OE light spring (out of any dist) will come in at ~850 & 2 OE light springs ~900 & /6's used a SLIGHTLY lighter spring than V8's did which'll lower the tip in RPM slightly. Always (in most cases) want to use at least (1) OE light spring plus one of the aftermarket springs & never use the OE heavy spring with the elongated loop on one end. EDIT that's why you cant go anywhere with the dist till you set your initial and your idle speed as you want it to start advancing several hundred RPM above your in gear idle speed that you'll see at the stoplight (or neutral if a non 904 guy). #1 #1 Get the weights tight with some heavy springs & set the initial timing with the VG method & even if you get one of the new MP dists you still can set your desired initial timing/idle RPM right now with the current dist
Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/09/13 09:37 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: moparrulzzz]
#1417488
04/09/13 09:23 PM
04/09/13 09:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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You sound pumped! Weld both slots on the outside & the dimention for how much slot length you need is in the archives but it ain't dead on accurate so go a bit shorter then elongate the slot(s) with a rattail file as you tune it to get it fine tuned (keep both sides equal). If you are using (1) spring it can go on either side & if (2) springs it does not matter which side which one goes on as the cam plate always advances in a linear fashion (the elongated loop spring that you toss is an exception). You'd want to weld the inside of the slots if you were using a non Mopar (longer) spring(s) otherwise the assy (with that) would flop till the weights moved out & the slack was taken up
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1417489
04/09/13 09:53 PM
04/09/13 09:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,679
Mansfield,Ohio
moparrulzzz
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,679
Mansfield,Ohio
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Quote:
You sound pumped! Weld both slots on the outside & the dimention for how much slot length you need is in the archives but it ain't dead on accurate so go a bit shorter then elongate the slot(s) with a rattail file as you tune it to get it fine tuned (keep both sides equal). If you are using (1) spring it can go on either side & if (2) springs it does not matter which side which one goes on as the cam plate always advances in a linear fashion (the elongated loop spring that you toss is an exception). You'd want to weld the inside of the slots if you were using a non Mopar (longer) spring(s) otherwise the assy (with that) would flop till the weights moved out & the slack was taken up
oh i am. i parked it last fall totally fed up and disgusted from all the bad advice and contradictory fixes. i read up on my holley and now understand that and have a firm grasp on this timing and ubderstanding that. i am ready to enjoy this car...finally!!!
THNX!!!
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Re: Distributor Springs needed and some info
[Re: moparrulzzz]
#1417493
04/10/13 09:11 PM
04/10/13 09:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,715
closer to Canadian beer!
torkrules
I'm neurotic
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I'm neurotic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,715
closer to Canadian beer!
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Quote:
Well for some reason i cant find a new Mopar performance Electronic Distributor on this earth I am going to redo my old unit.
!st where do I get the advance springs that were in the older units when they were new?
Also in my Smothers Brothers super tune video he says I need to put in a stiffer spring for a stable timing. Is there a spring kit out there for the older Dist's?? I know there is one for the newer units to recurve them.
Just to be clear on what I am doing I am going to attempt to weld my slot in my dist and play around with it to get my total timing in.
Also the springs I have in this thing now are so light it fully advances the timing at 500-600 RPMS.
I need the original springs as a starting base or a bit stiffer....
I went through this exercise over the winter. Everyone sells light springs. It depends what kind of curve you want.
I went through the trouble of refurbishing an old Sun 400 distributor machine. It was a huge help sorting through a bunch of different combinations.
My biggest problem is too much compression pressure, coupled with a heavier car, four speed and higher rear gears.
I needed a curve that starts at about 1500 RPM and peaks at 3000 RPM. The amount of mechanical advance will effect the peak. If you limit the mechanical advance by welding the slots, the peak will happen sooner, albeit, at a lower total timing.
I used a combination of springs I got from FBO. They are not exactly the same as stock by as long as they don't bind on the posts, they will work. I used one heavy spring and one light one from the set you can get from summit to service the newer style Mopar Performance distributors. FBO also sells a plate the mount on the pins of the weights. It has 3 sets of slots to limit the mechanical advance from 10 to 18 degrees. It also has holes to lock out the mechanical advance.
Normally the stock heavy spring has a slot to speed the advance up a bit at lower rpm. I find this type of spring doesn't work very well when you limit the mechanical advance. In my case I have mine limited to 14 degrees. If I used the slotted spring, it would use up the slot and never get into the spring.
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