Bought a new mark WIlliams Yoke for my Dana 60 and I was wondering HOW to replace it.. Do I need to install a shim or something to re crush the sleeve?? Or do I need a new sleeve??? How tight do I torque the nut..???.. PLEASE HELP.... Dana 60, 4.56 Auburn Gear, Strange Spool and Strange 35 spline axles.. Thank You in advance.. Gary Oles Nosboy

i think most dana 60's have shims not a crush sleeve, just make it tight 100 ft lbs?

gary

Most, if not all Dana 60's didn't use a crush sleeve to establish pinion bearing preload. They used shims.
Best way to remove/replace the companion flange without disturbing preload is to disconnect driveshaft, remove both rear wheels & brake drums/calipers & turn the companion flange with an inch/pound torque wrench to determine the rotating torque. Record this number. Next remove the pinion nut, belleville washer & pull off the old companion flange using the appropriate tools. Lubricate the new MW companion flange & install it on the pinion gear along with a new belleville washer & new pinion nut. Torque the nut down until you reach the same +/- rotating torque that you recorded from the original setup. In most cases you will need to tighten the nut to at least 250 foot/pounds or more to reach the desired rotating torque and not result in a differential assembly with a "loose" pinion nut....
Those of us with many years of experience setting up gears [correctly!] often use our hands to determine the rotating torque from the initial assembly. Newbys & novices should use measuring tools for best results...
When you're satisfied with the rotating torque value & you've reached at least the 250 ft/lb tightening number, you can reassemble the differential & road test!

Is this the OEM style yoke or the dragster/coupler one?

Don't worry about overtightenting a Dana 60 pinion nut in the car unless you have a 3/4 inch or one inch impact air wrench with a very big air compressor As already said some of the FSM show using 250 Ft lbs on them, others show 150 Ft Lbs. I use a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar with a 8 ft. long cheater extension on it and then jump up and down(220 lbs weight)it until it quits getting tighter(that is with the rear end out of the car on the shop floor I am one of the low experienced rear end guys so I use the FSM procedure to check the pinion bearing preload as well as pointing the pinion straight up into the air when checking the rotational torque both ways with a 1/4 drive inch pound beam type torque wrench Once you get it within factory specs . you have to remove the pinion nut and yoke to install the pinion bearing seal BTW, I have a stock of non lock nut pinion nuts(grade 8 extra long ) so I don't use the lock nuts that come with new gears