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Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: RapidRobert] #1412255
04/01/13 04:24 PM
04/01/13 04:24 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,929
Tri-Cities, Washington
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VITC_GTX Offline OP
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VITC_GTX  Offline OP
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Tri-Cities, Washington
Quote:

Quote:

I did remove the rear flex hose and blew compressed air through it. It seemed to have no restrictions at all. I'm wondering if my splitter/proportioning valve is where the blockage is


Next step would be to unscrew the rear line male fitting from the splitter & hit the brake & see what you get for volume (It'd be good to have a piece of brake line to screw in the block to contain the mess into a jar). If restricted then unscrew & check the line in front of the splitter & if still bad that would point to the M/C half & if good there ahead of the splitter then there's a restriction in the splitter. Holler how it goes. I'm thinking M/C




Yeah, I'll break the line loose and see what I find. How much fluid should I expect to come out, tablespoon?

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: VITC_GTX] #1412256
04/01/13 06:38 PM
04/01/13 06:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Yeah, I'll break the line loose and see what I find. How much fluid should I expect to come out, tablespoon?


way more than you can handle, you'll know if it's clear


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: RapidRobert] #1412257
04/03/13 12:20 AM
04/03/13 12:20 AM
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Tri-Cities, Washington
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VITC_GTX Offline OP
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OK, I'll try and make this as short as possible.

I went out to the car and pushed on the brake EXTREMELY hard and I heard and felt a "pop" and the back brakes started working. Bled them and they were working OK, not great but OK. Went out the next day and no rear brakes again. Next I removed the rear line just after the proportioning valve (I checked and I do have one) and I only got a few drips. So I took off the line in front of the proportioning valve and only got a few drops. So I bench bled the master cylinder and put everything back together and bled the brakes. Rear brakes started working again. If fact they worked pretty good so I locked up the shop and left. Well...I went out today and started the car on the lift put it in gear and hit the brakes...no rear brakes again. I got torqued off and walked away.

I'm thinking something is getting unstuck and stuck once it sits for a while.

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: VITC_GTX] #1412258
04/03/13 12:37 AM
04/03/13 12:37 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
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I wonder if the pop was in the rear drum area. Grab a helper see if you can get it to pop again


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: RapidRobert] #1412259
04/03/13 12:40 AM
04/03/13 12:40 AM
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Tri-Cities, Washington
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VITC_GTX Offline OP
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I can't get it to pop again. Hard to tell but it seemed like it came from the front (master cylinder or proportioning valve). I was assuming the proportioning valve had a valve stuck and it broke free but I really don't know anymore...

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: VITC_GTX] #1412260
04/03/13 01:40 AM
04/03/13 01:40 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844
Phoenix - surface of the sun
nomore65BelvJim Offline
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Quote:

How can I tell if I have a splitter or a proportioning valve?




The one in my hand is drum/drum, the one mounted to the frame rail is disc/drum. 72 A body.

7652694-100_1552a.JPG (248 downloads)
Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: nomore65BelvJim] #1412261
04/04/13 03:00 PM
04/04/13 03:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,929
Tri-Cities, Washington
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VITC_GTX Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

How can I tell if I have a splitter or a proportioning valve?




The one in my hand is drum/drum, the one mounted to the frame rail is disc/drum. 72 A body.




Well, I was wrong...again . I do have the drum/drum block that you show. I also think I found another issue. One of my wheel cylinders seems to be froze. I can hit the brakes with the hub off and it doesn't move but I have fluid at the wheel cylinder.

More to come...

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: VITC_GTX] #1412262
04/05/13 01:28 AM
04/05/13 01:28 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844
Phoenix - surface of the sun
nomore65BelvJim Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

How can I tell if I have a splitter or a proportioning valve?




The one in my hand is drum/drum, the one mounted to the frame rail is disc/drum. 72 A body.




Well, I was wrong...again . I do have the drum/drum block that you show. I also think I found another issue. One of my wheel cylinders seems to be froze. I can hit the brakes with the hub off and it doesn't move but I have fluid at the wheel cylinder.

More to come...




Replace both wheel cylinders, they are cheap. Also get the disc/drum block.

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: nomore65BelvJim] #1412263
04/07/13 11:18 PM
04/07/13 11:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 106
IA
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moparmoondog Offline
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I have a 67 Satellite that was giving me the same issues presently. After a front drum to single piston floating caliper disc brake conversion and a complete front end rebuild, I could do a solid 2 count after releasing the brake pedal before the brakes would release. I even stopped on a hill, applied the brakes, then lifted my foot off of the pedal and the car would NOT move for a full 2 count. after much troubleshooting and talking with my brake vendor and no luck. I swapped out the new 73 & newer combination disc/drum valve back to the old drum/drum block. Completely re-bled the system (Yes, the master cyl 1st!) NOW the brakes release immediately. A new faulty combo valve is obviously the problem. Will be contacting my vendor to inform him what I found. I still need to reinstall a properly functioning combination valve to achieve the proper braking ratio. Now the car heads to the alignment shop to get everything squared up!


Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: Rhinodart] #1412264
09/19/14 10:11 AM
09/19/14 10:11 AM
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Posts: 1,326
VA
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dragon slayer Offline
pro stock
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VA
Quote:

On factory single piston disc brake set-ups there are two valves, the distribution block and a metering valve for the rear brakes. The metering valve is just downline of the distribution block. A lot of people just use an adjustable valve.




Actually can be 3 also, and the rear valve is not a metering valve.

The distribution block feeds front metering valve for the front calipers. It also feeds a line to the rear proportioning valve that lowers the pressure to the rear drums. The meter valve is also called the hold off valve and delays applying pressure to the front brakes until the rear start grabbing.

Later mopar used a single combined valve with all the pieces in one.

Not sure if this was ever fixed, but sounds like MC secondary piston sticking. That is the piston that applies pressure to rear brakes. That would explain poor brakes and also not allowing pressure to bleed off when applied. G

Re: A Body disc brake swap - proportioning valve. [Re: VITC_GTX] #1412265
09/19/14 11:37 AM
09/19/14 11:37 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,105
Western Md.
skicker Offline
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Posts: 5,105
Western Md.
I got lucky, when I did the 69 Dart I found an original 74 manual drum-disc prop valve on the parts car I got. I couldn't find any designation or method to identify this valve from one that would be on a power brake car. I used the master cylinder kit that Dr. Diff sells with the 2 bolt to 4 bolt adapter. The rears are typical 10 x 2.5 B body drums. The Dart has incredible brakes in comparison to my Satellite which has almost the same components less the m/c conversion kit. I don't know if it would help your problem but I'll never put another project together without using the m/c conversion kit. I think sometimes when we get parts store reman m/c's that the bore size is incorrect for what we are working on.


...FAFO...
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