I have a worn idler arm on my 71 challenger. Are these PST kits worth the money? I have a friend who will help me do the labor.

http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.185/.f?sc=12


Thanks for any input

Before you purchase, you might want to investigate whether getting some offset upper control arm bushings might be worthwhile, to allow for getting a little more positive caster when you get the alignment done.

Additionally, getting some 11/16" tie rod ends and tie rod sleeves might be worthwhile also, to enhance tie rod end safety a bit.

That's why a lot of folks here piece things together a bit.

Some do polyurethane on the UCA bushings (and sometimes on the LCA bushings, as well). Kinda depends on how much you want to tighten things up.

Pressing the bushings out/in usually can't be done at home, unless you have/have access to a hydraulic press. Although there is a special tool kit made by American Muscle just for doing front end parts replacement (getting the ball joints separated from control arms, etc.).

If the idler is shot, might be worth checking the bushings and ball joints - they are common culprits in sloppy steering.

It's likely your cam bolts on the UCAs are okay, so that's four parts you probably wouldn't need anyway.

Its generally cheaper to goto a local auto parts store and get MOOG brand parts. Then youre assured of some kind of quality....

I used thier poly kit with 11/16 tie rods,but went with rubber LCA bushings and after trying to get the alignment done ended up needing the Moog offset UCA bushings to get +caster. I will just go all Moog next time. The Cardone remanned steering box I bought was way sloppy so I also switched to a Firm Feel stage 3 box,expensive but easily the best spent money on the car! Handles great,nice and tight!

The tool for the UCA's was a good deal since I have other vehicles to do but I paid a shop to swap in the LCA bushings,to me it wasn't worth the hassle to do those myself

pst uses cheap parts...ergo the cheap price. its prob fine if your car sees 1000 miles a year but dont expect it to last in daily driver duty.

How does the price on this kit look?

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/par...tml?3593=336172

What else needs to be added to make it comparable to the pst kit?
Thanks for looking

looks pretty complete to me, I buy the moog stuff from my local jobber, and then ill run energy bushing if I want poly or stock rubber in moog. I like to deal locally so when I have a warranty issue I dont have to deal with some fly by night ham and egger company. moog parts can fail too, ive warranteed several ball joints and tre's but theyre usually on heavier overworked under maintained trucks

I bought the super PST kit, mainly because my car has 160,000 miles on it. But after I started taking the front end apart, I realized that many parts, including the lower ball joints were NOT worn out, and buying the super kit was a waste.

For example, the factory service manual warns about not replacing lower ball joints until 0.070" axial movement in the housing arm relative to the ball joint stud is reached.

I should add that when I discovered that PST's strut rod grommets were way too big, PST's tech dept was absolutely no help. They suggested I use a sawzall to cut 'em down to size.

Not to mention that almost nothing in the PST kit looks Mopar original.

You'll save money by inspecting the components one by one and buying what you need. Or, you can buy my super kit from me.

I have used the bushing kits from Prothane, nice parts and available from Jegs or Summit. Dyno

"I should add that when I discovered that PST's strut rod grommets were way too big, PST's tech dept was absolutely no help. They suggested I use a sawzall to cut 'em down to size. "

Lol...forgot about that part,I cut mine,ditched the sleeves,and they work fine.