Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
#13914
01/04/05 02:31 PM
01/04/05 02:31 PM
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Posts: 79 Wichita Falls, TX
Texas_Jacksons
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Building a Budget 383/432 Stroker. I have seen this idea going around before, but it seems to get shifted to a 400 Stroker build-up, or a discussion on high horsepower, the 4.15" Crankshaft, or the use of Chevy rods/pistons. Some people don't want to build a 400 or spend the money on pricey cranks or rods. So what are we to do? Tell me where I'm going wrong on my thought process. These are my design parameters, what is missing? Crankshaft: OEM 440 Forged Crank w/383 mains Stroke: 3.75" Rods: OEM 383 Rods w/ARP bolts Rod Length: 6.358" Bore: 4.25" (+ .030") Preferred CR: 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 Piston Pin: 1.094" Application: Torque, Mild Performance (350 - 375HP), Stock Appearing, Driver I would think that the crankshaft may have to have the weights turned down some for clearance, either block or piston. Next, a custom set of pistons would need to be made. Then what? Maybe if more people would voice their choice to build the 432 Stroker to the piston manufactures, someone would create an off-the-shelf piston. Just like they did for the 400 and the 4.15" crankshaft. Opinions anyone? Mark Jackson The Jackson Garage
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: Texas_Jacksons]
#13915
01/04/05 03:06 PM
01/04/05 03:06 PM
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AndyF
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It is a fine motor. Basically a low deck version of the factory 426 which was a very, very good motor design. Ford 427, Chevy 427 and the Mopar 426 are all classic 4.25 x 3.75 (or close enough) motors.
Only thing I'd suggest is to use the longer 440 connecting rod in order to give you a lighter piston. You'll still have plenty of piston height with the 3.75 stroke. If you're willing to spend a few more bucks then use an aftermarket 440 rod with a .990 pin and you'll shave even more weight from the rotating assembly.
Call Diamond Racing for the pistons. They build the 383 stroker piston on a regular basis even if it isn't a stocking part number.
Last edited by JohnRR; 01/04/05 03:23 PM.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: JohnRR]
#13920
01/04/05 06:27 PM
01/04/05 06:27 PM
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Texas_Jacksons
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I just got an email that says I need to cut my 440 crankshaft counterweights down to 7.25" to clear the block. I know that many people have built the 400/451 combo. So what did you cut the crankshaft down to? Besides cutting some room on the block for rod bolts, were there any other block modification that were needed to install a 440 crank in a 383/400? Mark Jackson The Jackson Garage
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: Texas_Jacksons]
#13921
01/04/05 07:17 PM
01/04/05 07:17 PM
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AndyF
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Sorry, I did mean 440 rod. The longer rod lets you use a shorter piston and gets the pistons up away from the crank. Turning the crank down to 7.250 is what I've been recommending for years. It takes weight out of the assembly and it provides for clearance. Read the 451 Manifesto on my website at www.arengineering.com in the article section.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: AndyF]
#13922
01/04/05 10:21 PM
01/04/05 10:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,085 NotRussia
2fast4yourBrain
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Quote:
Sorry, I did mean 440 rod. The longer rod lets you use a shorter piston and gets the pistons up away from the crank.
Turning the crank down to 7.250 is what I've been recommending for years. It takes weight out of the assembly and it provides for clearance. Read the 451 Manifesto on my website at www.arengineering.com in the article section.
Interesting that the latest Popular HOt Rodding mag for the Jeg's engine shootout suggests using a smallish bore (not too small otherwise you'll get valve shrouding) and to use a short rod as the latter will decrease the dwell time the piston is in its comp. stroke and is less likely to detonate.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: 2fast4yourBrain]
#13923
01/04/05 10:54 PM
01/04/05 10:54 PM
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RoadRaceDart
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Quote:
Interesting that the latest Popular HOt Rodding mag for the Jeg's engine shootout suggests using a smallish bore (not too small otherwise you'll get valve shrouding) and to use a short rod as the latter will decrease the dwell time the piston is in its comp. stroke and is less likely to detonate.
I can see the smaller bore, but the short rod seems counter intuative. I mean if you have longer dwell on a quench chamber engine then there is more time to transfer heat OUT of the charge into the combustion chamber.
Did PH explain the reasoning behind the short rod?
Joshua
Last edited by JohnRR; 01/10/05 01:41 PM.
Joshua
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: RoadRaceDart]
#13924
01/05/05 12:43 AM
01/05/05 12:43 AM
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Anonymous
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Whats the reason for the small bore? Maybe velocity in the intake port but I'm not sure it would be NET GAIN OVER A LARGER BORE BENNIFIT IN relation to more cubes.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
#13925
01/07/05 08:11 PM
01/07/05 08:11 PM
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Posts: 6,085 NotRussia
2fast4yourBrain
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Quote:
Whats the reason for the small bore? Maybe velocity in the intake port but I'm not sure it would be NET GAIN OVER A LARGER BORE BENNIFIT IN relation to more cubes.
Here's what they say:
According to two-time champion Jon Kasse the short rod yields very fast piston action at TDC and minimizes dwell time so the pistons get away from the chambers as quicly as possible. More time spent at TDC in creases the chance that non-homgenized portions of the mixture will ignite on their own and rattle the motor. Smaller bores are advantageous because they reduce the distance the flame front has to travel and the smaller area also offers less opportunity for unwanted secondary flame fronts to develop. The small bore theory must not be taken to the extreme or valve shrouding becomes a larger issue.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: dogdays]
#13927
01/13/05 11:23 AM
01/13/05 11:23 AM
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Texas_Jacksons
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All, I have received emails from most of the piston manufactures on the market. Basically, they have custom pistons for $1000+. However, there were a couple of exceptions. Ron at Diamond Pistons said that they are interested in creating an "off-the-shelf" piston for the 383/431 Stroker. It would come in a flat-top and a dish configuration. It would be designed using the 440 rod length. However, after reading the previous posts and maybe some research about the small bore/short rod phenomenon, they may want to look at the 383 rod also. Mike at Muscle Motors Racing said he would have some sets in stock in a few weeks. The cost is $559. I bet these are custom Ross Pistons, but I’m not sure. So if anyone out there wants to build this Stroker or thinks it’s a good idea, you had better start sending so emails to these guys an let them know. Capitalize on the opportunity. Here are some links. Diamond Pistons Muscle Motors Racing Thanks, Mark Jackson The Jackson Garage
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: Texas_Jacksons]
#13928
01/13/05 11:45 AM
01/13/05 11:45 AM
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Posts: 9,875 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
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I agree with most of what is offered here except I prefer the shorter 6.36" rod, all else being equal I find 6.36 motors to be a little torquier, more responsive and on the street a little more "bad batch of gas forgiving" IMO.
While it's true the piston with the shorter rod is a little heavier, the shorter rod itself is a little lighter (and even lighter after evivalent pad trimming and beam polishing) so IMO it's somewhat of an 'offsetting penalty'. A lot of people have come over to the Short rod "Dark side" in recent years although mathematically in a 431/451 it's not really as significant as in many other Bore/Stroke/Deck height combos. I was building 431's back in the early 80's using 454 chevy slugs! We tried keeping Strokers a big secret back then!
Last edited by Streetwize; 01/13/05 11:50 AM.
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: ph23vo]
#13931
01/13/05 11:50 PM
01/13/05 11:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,610 Not2farfromNashville, TN
Rug_Trucker
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I am confused!! Not being "Mr. Engine" scientist I was always told longer rods are better for the dwell time @TDC. For the slant the longer stroke 225 crank with the longer rods fromthe 198. An advantage of the 360's in roundy round racing is their longer rod for pulling out of the corners. SB Chevy's cheat and run longer rods to stay competitive, and at some tracks the tech guys have been known to turn a blind eye to the longer rods. I know a guy that built a SBC with longer rods on the side that usually didn't get checked on tear down after winning. Broke 2 cranks and quit doing it!
Why not just build the engine to not detonate through cam, chamber/piston design?
I got my popcorn and an open ear
BTW would the 356 heads on my '65 383 be less likely to detonate?
Last edited by Rug_Trucker; 01/13/05 11:52 PM.
"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing"
"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"
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Re: Revisiting the 383 Stroker Idea
[Re: Rug_Trucker]
#13932
01/14/05 12:08 AM
01/14/05 12:08 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
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At 9:1 with a 431 I'd run a Street dominator, ported 906 and a Crower 32242 cam. .486/.496, 222/234 @.050 112 centers in at 108. As for short rods, the slighty shorter "dwell" near TDC is actually beneficial on the street as it makes it less likely to detonate, with a still big ~4.31" bore and an open chamber, short rods help. Faster pull away from TDC also increases the intake fuel metering signal, if only slightly. Stronger signal is good for torque and can make a motor feel a little less Cammy off idle. 431/451 I'd always go 6.36" but....opinions vary My 427" (4.04"B x 4.17"S) 351W in my cobra replica has a ~1.46:1 (6.123" 340 rods BTW) rod ratio and it's inch for inch about the torquiest mutha I ever built!! With ~300cfm Trick flow heads it has no trouble pulling to 6500 but I usually short-shift it at about 5800.
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