My fender tag indicates that the car originally had a power top. During the earlier "restoration" (2003), the prior owner decided to convert to a manual drop-top (don't know why). Hence, no power top components left. The following description is from an older ebay listing:
'Hold down clamps' were installed onto ALL 1970-71 E body converts with a manual conv. top. These brackets bolt to the top inner wheel well area. All E conv's have 4 holes there. 2 on each side, power top convertible owners may have wondered what these 4 threaded holes were for upon their discovery. When your top frame is in its down position, these clamps will hold frame in place - to keep it from springing up while driving. Power top cars did not require these clamps - the hydraulic system prevents the frame from moving back up once its in its full-down position (unless a motor fails or a hydro line bursts.)"
I am considering going back to a power top, but would need ALL the components (i.e. pump, hoses, cylinders, harness/wiring/fuse, hoses, pump brackets and cylinders), and would be looking at a rough total cost of about $1K (gasp!). I have the "hold down clamps" described in the ebay listing, but the nylon 'catch' on one of them is damaged/worn. BTW - the Parts Catalog calls the part a "Catch". Any thoughts/advice on where I can get a good replacement? Obviously, each one is specific for one side. Any thoughts/advice on keeping the manual set-up over power conversion. I know each has its own pros and cons. BTW - when the listing was on ebay several years ago, the seller was asking $500 for the pair. They were both in good condition. I've attached several pictures. #1 is the ebay seller's photo. #2 and #3 are photos of my pieces (the close-up showing the damage/wear to the nylon where it catches the frame). #4 is a page from the Parts Catalog. #5 is the catch in its proper location (sorry for it being out-of-focus; it's not my photo, or my car). Thanks.

I think I remember the 500 dollar listing on ebag. Thought that was way to much. I repaired one of mine buy drilling out the top rivet and using a small machine bolt as a catch works great and no one ever noticed. later I picked up an extra set for mine for less that a hundred some time back on there. They come up on there every once in while, if you keep an eye out you might score some at a reasonable amount, but Im sure it will take awhile.

Pump, lines & cylinders can be robbed from any K car convertible, I've grabbed complete assys for less than $100... The rear wiring harness from Year One includes that section of the top pump wiring & is less than $200... So you need the section of harness under the dash, Circuit breaker, the switch & bezel... To lower the top with manual tops you have to stop & get out of the car.. Power top you catch a stop light pop the latches & hit a button....

Does anybody have a picture of these holes. I'm in the process of restoring a manual top 70 cuda I don't have these catches and don't see the holes on the inner fenders. The car was apart when I got it so I have no reference. Did they all have them or is there a time frame for these (early cars/late cars)

Thanks for the pics. I do have them they are in the rear cross member. I guess that is something to add to the list. I have never noticed those before. So if anybody has a set pm me.

Just bought 1 foot of this nylon rectangle bar stock for $25.00 (tax and shipping included). It's 1-1/2" x 1" (same height and width dimensions as the original molded nylon "catch"). Can't wait for it to arrive so I can start shaping a new piece. I'll probably make (2) so I have fresh matching material. Since the length of the "catch" is only 1-3/4", I'll have enough stock for multiple attempts in case I make any shaping mistakes. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

I thought I'd report back for the benefit of sharing my experience with others. So far, I have received the nylon bar stock (it is actually not as white in color as it appears to be in the pictures; it is more of a "natural" color, which is closer to the 40 year old part); drilled out the 1/8" rivets to separate the nylon "catch" from the spring steel leg; traced the profile of the catch to the new stock. Next will be to start cutting and shaping. I'll continue to take photos to illustrate the process, and post as progress is made. I hope all goes well. Enjoy, and thanks for all the feedback.

I have 3d data, Im looking for a shop to make a tool. Will let you know when I have some luck.

If the nylon can be water jet cut this would probably be the most economical solution. I would look at getting someone to waterjet cut the complex shape and then have the relief for the screws milled in.

Hello Everyone. I know it's been a long time since the last post on this topic, but I wanted to report back on the latest progress. I tried many months ago to make a new nylon piece from the nylon bar stock using a dremel and various cutting/carving bits. I got close to finishing one piece, but decided to put the project on the "back burner" so I could work on other stuff the car needed. The carving/cutting was very tedious and time consuming, and VERY messy (nylon shavings everywhere). Toward the end of the year I decided to revisit the project. Someone here posted a 3D image of the piece, and I thought about having my one good piece 3D scanned, and have it "printed" in nylon using a 3D printing service provider. I researched 3D printing, and sourced a small company in the Los Angeles area that provided both scanning and printing. Not all 3D printers can print using nylon (most print using ABS, or similar plastic materials). Anyway, after my approval of the 3D images (see attached), the new pieces were printed, and I received the first pair several weeks ago, but they were slightly smaller in size compared to the original (probably due to cleaning up the 3D scan). I provided caliper measurements of the new and original pieces, and asked if the 3D data file could be manipulated so that the dimensions matched the original. The answer was "Yes". The 3D scan file was adjusted and new pieces were made. I just got them today (see photos of new vs. old pieces). The turnaround was relatively quick; and quite surprisingly, the cost was really not that bad. 3D scan was $25.00, and printing (2) pieces was $13.00 + $10.00 shipping (total = $48.00). I also received the 3D data file (STL format), so I can send this to any 3D printing company and have more pieces made. Let me know if anyone needs some.

Nice job Joseph.

That is so cool NICE JOB!!! mine are good for now but I will bookmark that one.

I have been contacted by quite a few people (here and on Cuda-Challenger) expressing interest in these new nylon pieces. I will be placing an order soon to have a bunch made after I've figured out how many. In the meantime, I will be getting back to all of you soon with responses to your messages. Thank you for your interest.

BTW - Here are a few photos showing the new nylon catches attached with pop rivets to the spring steel legs. I ended up having to slightly hone out the holes in the new pieces in order to get the 1/8" rivets through. They didn't need much; just held a 1/8" drill bit in hand, and pushed it through while twisting, and then back and forth a few times.

Got a few questions about these manual top hold down brackets. Does anyone have any info about, (or photos showing) where exactly the brackets mount inside the car? I'm pretty darn certain the previous owner did not mount them in the correct location. He had them bolted to the angled ends of the cross brace, and the drilled holes definitely don't look original. Other evidence that indicates incorrect mounting were the additional "extension" pieces that he used between the bracket and the catch. They don't look original; and from other photos I've seen of complete bracket assemblies, there were no extensions. Also, where did the nylon catch make contact on the convertible top frame to hold it down when it was lowered into the well? Regarding the well liner: Were the brackets mounted with the well liner underneath them, or were there "slits" made into the well liner to allow the spring steel leg to poke through (therefore, the bracket would not be seen from inside the car, only the nylon catch)? It kinda makes sense to me that the entire bracket assembly would be visible from inside the car, hence holes would be made in the well liner for the mounting bolts. Thanks for any help.