1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
#1390590
02/19/13 10:57 PM
02/19/13 10:57 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
filmsurgeon
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My fender tag indicates that the car originally had a power top. During the earlier "restoration" (2003), the prior owner decided to convert to a manual drop-top (don't know why). Hence, no power top components left. The following description is from an older ebay listing: 'Hold down clamps' were installed onto ALL 1970-71 E body converts with a manual conv. top. These brackets bolt to the top inner wheel well area. All E conv's have 4 holes there. 2 on each side, power top convertible owners may have wondered what these 4 threaded holes were for upon their discovery. When your top frame is in its down position, these clamps will hold frame in place - to keep it from springing up while driving. Power top cars did not require these clamps - the hydraulic system prevents the frame from moving back up once its in its full-down position (unless a motor fails or a hydro line bursts.)" I am considering going back to a power top, but would need ALL the components (i.e. pump, hoses, cylinders, harness/wiring/fuse, hoses, pump brackets and cylinders), and would be looking at a rough total cost of about $1K (gasp!). I have the "hold down clamps" described in the ebay listing, but the nylon 'catch' on one of them is damaged/worn. BTW - the Parts Catalog calls the part a "Catch". Any thoughts/advice on where I can get a good replacement? Obviously, each one is specific for one side. Any thoughts/advice on keeping the manual set-up over power conversion. I know each has its own pros and cons. BTW - when the listing was on ebay several years ago, the seller was asking $500 for the pair. They were both in good condition. I've attached several pictures. #1 is the ebay seller's photo. #2 and #3 are photos of my pieces (the close-up showing the damage/wear to the nylon where it catches the frame). #4 is a page from the Parts Catalog. #5 is the catch in its proper location (sorry for it being out-of-focus; it's not my photo, or my car). Thanks.
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: filmsurgeon]
#1390592
02/19/13 11:14 PM
02/19/13 11:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
Management Trainee
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Management Trainee
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
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Pump, lines & cylinders can be robbed from any K car convertible, I've grabbed complete assys for less than $100... The rear wiring harness from Year One includes that section of the top pump wiring & is less than $200... So you need the section of harness under the dash, Circuit breaker, the switch & bezel... To lower the top with manual tops you have to stop & get out of the car.. Power top you catch a stop light pop the latches & hit a button....
"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: 340swing]
#1390594
02/20/13 12:34 AM
02/20/13 12:34 AM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
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Quote:
Does anybody have a picture of these holes. I'm in the process of restoring a manual top 70 cuda I don't have these catches and don't see the holes on the inner fenders. The car was apart when I got it so I have no reference. Did they all have them or is there a time frame for these (early cars/late cars)
These are photos of my holes. I don't know that they are the original location as the prior owner of my car (who did the resto-mod "restoration") did a 3" mini-tub. So, maybe he relocated the catch brackets to the support. Pay no attention to the dried adhesive all over the place. It's a long story. Part of the crap job the guy did when he did the resto-mod.
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: magiccuda]
#1390595
02/20/13 03:12 AM
02/20/13 03:12 AM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
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Quote:
I think I remember the 500 dollar listing on ebag. Thought that was way to much. I repaired one of mine buy drilling out the top rivet and using a small machine bolt as a catch works great and no one ever noticed. later I picked up an extra set for mine for less that a hundred some time back on there. They come up on there every once in while, if you keep an eye out you might score some at a reasonable amount, but Im sure it will take awhile.
I'm considering buying some nylon stock and fabricating one using the one good one I have as a reference model. I'll bet it's not that difficult using a dremel and other misc hand and power tools. If I go this route, I'll post picts of the finished product.
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: filmsurgeon]
#1390597
02/20/13 11:17 AM
02/20/13 11:17 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,309 South, FL
cudaized
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,309
South, FL
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Quote:
I'm considering buying some nylon stock and fabricating one using the one good one I have as a reference model. I'll bet it's not that difficult using a dremel and other misc hand and power tools. If I go this route, I'll post picts of the finished product.
That has been done before. Take your time. It is not that difficult of job.
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: cudaized]
#1390598
02/20/13 01:27 PM
02/20/13 01:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
I'm considering buying some nylon stock and fabricating one using the one good one I have as a reference model. I'll bet it's not that difficult using a dremel and other misc hand and power tools. If I go this route, I'll post picts of the finished product.
That has been done before. Take your time. It is not that difficult of job.
Any ideas where to go for the nylon stock, and am I correct in assuming they are made of nylon?
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: plymth70]
#1390602
03/23/13 06:33 PM
03/23/13 06:33 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
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Quote:
I have 3d data, Im looking for a shop to make a tool. Will let you know when I have some luck.
That is VERY COOL! How did you do that? Depending on how soon you can get a shop to machine new pieces, I may end up having to get some from you. A couple of days ago, I began carving a new piece from the nylon bar stock. It was a bit of a learning experience at the start (first attempt to "cut out" the basic shape was not good). I ended up using only a variable speed dremel at its lowest speed with a cutting bit to cut and shape the new piece. It's turned out pretty good so far (I still have to carve out the area where the part is riveted to the spring steel leg). It's taken quite some hours so far, but I think the end results will be most satisfactory. I'll post pictures one I've completed the first piece.
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Re: 1970-71 E-Body Convertibles (Manual Top "Catch")
[Re: cudaize]
#1390604
01/22/14 07:07 PM
01/22/14 07:07 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 401 California, USA
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Hello Everyone. I know it's been a long time since the last post on this topic, but I wanted to report back on the latest progress. I tried many months ago to make a new nylon piece from the nylon bar stock using a dremel and various cutting/carving bits. I got close to finishing one piece, but decided to put the project on the "back burner" so I could work on other stuff the car needed. The carving/cutting was very tedious and time consuming, and VERY messy (nylon shavings everywhere). Toward the end of the year I decided to revisit the project. Someone here posted a 3D image of the piece, and I thought about having my one good piece 3D scanned, and have it "printed" in nylon using a 3D printing service provider. I researched 3D printing, and sourced a small company in the Los Angeles area that provided both scanning and printing. Not all 3D printers can print using nylon (most print using ABS, or similar plastic materials). Anyway, after my approval of the 3D images (see attached), the new pieces were printed, and I received the first pair several weeks ago, but they were slightly smaller in size compared to the original (probably due to cleaning up the 3D scan). I provided caliper measurements of the new and original pieces, and asked if the 3D data file could be manipulated so that the dimensions matched the original. The answer was "Yes". The 3D scan file was adjusted and new pieces were made. I just got them today (see photos of new vs. old pieces). The turnaround was relatively quick; and quite surprisingly, the cost was really not that bad. 3D scan was $25.00, and printing (2) pieces was $13.00 + $10.00 shipping (total = $48.00). I also received the 3D data file (STL format), so I can send this to any 3D printing company and have more pieces made. Let me know if anyone needs some.
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