I am having trouble with the brakes on my road runner. They dont stop the car very well. They seem to require an extreme amount of pedal pressure to work. panic stopping from 40 MPH I couldn't get the tires to lock up. I think it is a SSBC kit that was installed mid 90s. The pedal feel is ok, pumping them doesn't seem to make them work any better. I don't have a brake pressure gauge, but i can but one if needed. Right now the car isn't driven due to brakes. The brake lines look kinda scary.
The rotors are like 10.5 rear, 10.75 front, but only about 0.75 inch wide. Are they undersized?

Anyone know what kit this is?
Are they any good?
What spindles do I have?
Are the rear caliprs on upside down? bleeder appears to be on bottom.
Do any vendors make brake line kits for this setup?
Do i need a power booster?
It has a crate hemi using schumacher mounts - so not sure if I an fit one in.
Advice on how to assess/fix.


Help me get again
Pics

Drive side rear
bleeder is on lower part of caliper

pics 2

pics 3

4

scary looking brake hose routing

SSBC proportioning valve

6

8

Bleeders go to the top,-- ALWAYS -- so the air can rise to the top and get pushed out.

What is the bore size of the front calipers? The rear calipers?

What is the bore size of the master cylinder?

What is the equalizer valve in the system? porportioning valve?

more pics

Drivers side front

pic

In that picture of the rear brake lines on the Y block on the rear axle there should be a vent pipe that clamps that Y block to the rear axle to hold it all in place. I didnt see one and it looked to me as if that Y block is just hanging there. Am I correct?

If so fix that problem as well. It has nothing to do with the brake pedal feel but should be corrected if its not bolted to the rear axle.

Maybe the rear calipers are switched from left to right side if the bleeders are pointing down. Do some looking around back there and see if that might be the case? Hard to tell without thoroughly inspecting the setup in person.

This shows the bleed valves (red arrow),
assumed caliper center (orange line), and
brake hose near the bump stop (yellow arrow).

I am not sure a hydroboost will fit with a hemi.

The rear brakes are probably okay, the fronts are garbage for a car like yours, as is the master cylinder. That is a typical problem with those kits.

If you have 15 inch wheels then your best bet is to put a factory 11.75 kit on there. It should work okay with those rear disc brakes. You'll want to get the right master cylinder too while you're at it.

Cass at www.doctordiff.com can set you up with all the right parts. He is the best guy to talk to on a deal like this. Good luck.

You can bleed the rear calipers even if the screws are pointing in the wrong direction by doing the following:
Remove the calipers from their brackets. Measure the space between the pads. This will mimic the thickness of the rotor. Wedge a piece of wood of that size between the pads. Place the caliper in a way as to point the bleeder straight up and bleed the brakes as normal. After all the air is gone and the pedal feels right, reinstall the calipers on each corner.

If you have to take off the calipers to bleed them it would be silly not to change them over to the correct side right away.
But even with air in the rear calipers, the fronts should be able to lock up the wheels alone.

And yes, move that brake hose away from that bump stop and make sure the splitter-block is mounted to the axle securely by use of the vent-tube.

Cheap solution;
- get a smaller diameter MC
- swap rear calipers.