Post your 383 combos with a 440 crank. I plan on using my 383 block with steath heads. I am considering using a 440 crank? Looking to give it some bottom end but dont want to sacrifice the car hooking every pass. Wondering what to expect for ET in my 3800lbs 4 door Belvedere. Undecided to use a flat tappet or roller cam. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

This is what i am running currently! 437,
Runs great, 10.40s in 2900# car,
with some tuning should get it low 10.teens
it is an easy plate form to build off of,
, you can do the same in a 400 block as well, 451

Is there an advantage over using a 440 block? Or is it convenience?

Working on my first 440 build & have certainly wondered if the 451 combo would be better for a race car

The other reason to use a 383 block is that you already have one!

Go to Mancini Racing's overstock page. Your pistons are waiting...Diamonds, $500.

R.

If the 446 is a stock type rebuild with those HEAVY pistons and rods, and the 451 uses lightweight pistons and rods, the 451 wins every time.

R.

383 combos guys. I built a 500 using a 400 block. I love the b blocks. Easier to get ahold of and better clearances. Who else is running 431-438s? How fast?

Best option would be to use a 400 block (bigger bore). But, If you already have the 383 block, and aren't looking for a MAX effort, it should work just fine. You might cruise the local craigslist for a 400, though. I found a 400 long block out of a P/U not far from me for dirt cheap ($50 if I remember correctly!!).

Advantages to the B motor are plenty:
-lighter weight than an RB block.
-smaller physical size makes headers and high rise manifolds easier to navigate
-Same stroke rotating assembly in a "B" is substantially lighter in rotating mass than the RB combo i.e.: lighter pistons and lighter crank due to counterweights and main journals being cut down.
-While not true with a 383 block, a 400 blocks bigger bore helps with unshrouding the valves, lets it breath better.
-"B" blocks are generally understood to be a little stronger than "RB" blocks due to the lower piston sleeve.

The extra stroke will pay big dividends in trying to move a 4-door belvedere, which is a hefty sled to say the least. Bottom line, the 3.75 stroke build will stomp the same 3.38 build every time! and the bigger the car your moving, the bigger the advantage gets. My combo is a .040 over 400 block with a 413 RB crank ground on center, good for 452 cubes. It also has Stealth heads (with no port work) and a street friendly solid flat tappet cam and Pump gas allowable 10.3:1 CR. It moves my Satellite along pretty good (although on this board, you're NEVER fast enough) and in general I'm real happy with what I was able to build on my budget.

cutting the crank will be the only thing that is any different than a standard 383 build, and you'll want to find a machine shop that understands exactly what you're doing for this. Try to find a shop thats done it before. If you get the deer in the headlights look when you explain it, keep looking! You're looking for the guy that smiles and says "I've done that plenty of times!". This work shouldn't cost you much more than a few hundred bucks by itself.

Whatever you end up doing, Have fun!

I like taking the stock forged steel cranks and have them offset ground to 3.91 or 3.90, (whatever stroke you can get out of them) with BB Chevy rod size and B motor main size, works good in both 400 and 383 The 400 blocks have thicker main webs than the 440 and 383 do

Hope I wasn't hijacking. Thanks for clearing that up. Going to be doing a stroker in the near future & have access to a couple 400's. Going to grab one this spring as it certainly sounds like a good starting point for next year's motor.

Whatever block you decide to use, ALWAYS ALWAYS sonic check and Mag before investing in parts.

True Dat!
R.

Mancini Overstock again, 4.15" stroke 383 main Eagle 4340 crank $500. Yeah, it's 10 under on both rods and mains, but so what?
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/384st6bo10ea.html
R.

so nobody line bores?i thaught there was some debate as to it being better than grinding the crank?

anyone using a cast crank?