Any cutting involved to install a 518 into a 70 Cuda with a 360?
also, what is the best year transmission to get that has the least electronics? Is there a non-lockup 518 transmission? Can a 727 torque convertor be used?
Thanks.

Yes, some cutting and welding will be required. Even though there's a bit more room for this swap in an e-body than an a-body, some surgery will be required for the transmission mount and crossmember.

If you use the 46RH, hydraulically controlled transmission, you can control it with readily available solenoid set-ups. These solenoids kits will also control the lock-up torque converter, which you'll probably want to run because it makes a significant difference in overall efficiency.

While you're building your transmission, there are several component that can be upgraded to significantly improve its durability including using a heavier duty lock-up torque converter with the appropriate stall speed.

Check out the kits near the bottom of this long page.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

Wild R/T put one in an E body , there is a thread somewhere showing the pictures , he cut a couple large rids off the side of the OD to minimize any cutting on the car .

Yes there is a non lockup 518 , you want something for a late 80's pickup , you have to fab a mount , pay attention to drivetrain angle . You'll have to come up with a way to switch OD in and out , there is threads about that also using vac switches , Lockup can be your friend also.

I think a 727 convertor will fit a non lockup 518 . I never tried it but I wonder if the front half of a 727 and would fit , but you'll need to find a non lockup valve body

No cutting of the body required! Check this thread out on cuda-challenger. This pretty much explains it all:

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=23678.0

There are other posts on this as well. As far as which unit, right now would be the 46RH if you want the lock up converter (better MPG) I think it is 92-95. Non L.U. is harder to find. Hooziewhatzit is in the process of making a controller for the 46RE, which is 97 and newer electronic version. I am waiting to see if he gets it working before I get my trans. There is a post it Q & A about it.

I've been looking at this, near the end of other thread.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=84774.0

As was mentioned earlier, be sure to maintain the driveline angle when doing the installation. It can be tempting to simply lower the tail end of the transmission to clear the crossmember, but that can cause issues. If you can get it to fit with just trimming the case, that would be very nice.

I put a 46RH/A518 from a 95 pickup in a 440 - 71 Challenger. I had to cut/weld the transmission cross-loop frame that is inside the transmission tunnel. I also cut on the tunnel itself to expand the around the top ears of the transmission. The ears are what everyone is talking about cutting on. I did grind the ears down some, but this is the threaded area for two bolts, so I didn't go crazy on the grinding. If you use pressure switches off the governor to control the OD/lock-up, don't forget to clearance the tunnel for the fittings off the governor port. My transmission is probably 1/2" too low at the output (tilts down at the back). Looking all around the transmission I have several tight areas which only have 1/4" to 1/2" clearance.

I don't know if the transmission case sizes changed from year to year. I wish mine had gone in as easy as other folks had experienced. Maybe there is certain year(s) to search for in getting a transmission.

Good Luck,

I lopped the tabs off, there was nothing structural about them.. I also cut away the webbing that interferes with the torsion bar crossmember..

2

This is one of the two ears that I was refering to. They are for the bolts that attach the over-drive case to the main transmission. I had to clearance both sides of the transmission tunnel to raise the transmission up to be close the correct height. As in the other pictures, I also cut out the webbing on the sides to help clear the crossmember.

Those two points only hit sheetmetal not the torsion bar crossmember, I raised the trans into position & used a prybar to slightly shift the sheet metal, (less than 1/2") no hammering, no cutting, nothing I consider worth being concerned about..

I think IMGTX has designed and built mounts for this swap. Might want to PM him.