Like most of us 2nd Gen Charger owners there comes a time when the vac operated doors don't work properly. Mine go up but will not go down.
I am now replacing every vac hose and just found a repop vac canister which should be here in a few days. Has any one tried this to test the vac actuators to ensure they are working? Would using a brake bleeder tool work? The type one person can use to bleed a brake system? It may pull enough vac to test the actuators, I hope. I could also try using the vac line off a running car and hook that directly to the actuator but I don't want to chance damaging the actuator. If I do all this then my last resort is a new switch in the dash

Don't worry you couldn't "hurt" the actuators pulling any vac, even 30".....don't apply compressed air though, vacumm only, if the actuators open but don't close, either look at the return lines on the actuators for leaks/cracks/disconnected lines,...next up is the white plastic slider vacumm switch that is mounted behind the headlite dash electrical switch, the rocker portion of the switch activates the white slider switch to cover or expose the required port(s) to open/close the headlites, to test the system, disconnect the vacumm bulkhead of the white slider switch, it just pushes on/off, the middle port on the vacumm harness is the constant vacumm supply from the reserv. canister under the battery tray, the top and bottom lines are the up/down activation, just apply vacummm from a hand activated Mityvac type, or steal vacumm from the actual car running, or another donor source of vacumm, if you can activate the headlite doors up and down, and hold them in the desired position, then change out the slider switch, repros are available, used switches usually suffer the same problems...

Mike

they also have a replacement kit to switch them over to electric.

Thanks DayClona. I saw your name online somewhere yesterday and it said you had a dot com address from what I thought was a business. I tried it on my browser but nothing came up. I will try your comments when the new canister comes in. Mike

Appreciate that John H. I didn't know they had an electric alternative but after spending the $$$ on this resto I figured may as well stay as stock as possible. Thanks again

It's usually always the switch itself.
here is a linky to a post i made years ago about the switch and how to repair it on dodge charger.com

Thanks 69Charger.............. If all else fails!

It's actually a really easy job. I did it in 30mins start to finish.
i figured the old one wasn't working so i could hack it, but i did have a spare to fall back on, but it had the same problem.
the biggest problem was the spring inside that was broken, it's made of spring steel and was broken in half and that's what provides the pressure on the rubber block to divert the vacuum. the lithium grease was the icing on the cake, and just made it work better than new. My headlights on my new charger did the same thing, and i rebuilt that one too, and it's almost too fast, they open/close in 1 second!!!
why pay so much for a used switch when you could fix the old one for free? and once you add screws to the back plate you can service it anytime, although it's been 7yrs with my new car and there has been no issues!