I'm going to order a rebuild kit for my 23 spline a833. Built in Feb. 1969. It's my first try at it by myself. I bought it in this condition. From the pics, can you tell me if you see anything besides the synchro stop rings needing replacement? I think someone tried to work on it already, the synchro keys (struts) were from an earlier (pre-68) trans, they were the skinny ones with the narrow line across it. The gears look clean and sharp. See anything?
Date code is 2768 or Feb, 24 1969

Stop ring from 3rd gear (bad one)


Clutch hub from 3rd, I just noticed the keys/struts are missing...


1/2 clutch sleeve gear and stop ring

It is always hard to accurately tell the quality of the gears from pictures but here is a primer.

The best thing in your case would be to send the transmission or at least the gears if you are doing your own rebuild to Brewers or Passon performance and have them inspect them.

From those pics I think you are going to need a 4th gear (input shaft). The syncro slider also I would bet. You can't see it but the slider has teeth on them also that engage the gear teeth. If the gear is chewed the slider probably is also.

Also make sure the shift levers and shafts are not rounded, the linkage has no slop and is properly adjusted.

Badly chewed up syncro's are often caused by those things. They prevent the syncro from fully engaging the gear before the clutch is depressed and it grinds. It also happens when people just can't shift. If it's grinding some people just push harder and tear it up instead of depressing the clutch and shifting again.

hope it helps.

That helps alot, thank you. I figured one bad part would effect others. Time to dig deeper.

I've done a fair number of these and here are my "opinions" in general:

1) nice sharp syncro teeth on the gears are nice - but not an absolute necessity. Even new ones are going to chip and wear to a point and then wear no more. As long as the slider will engage and stay engaged things are fine. I wouldn't change yours.
2) As long as the syncro assemblies slide smoothly I don't worry too much about those either. However, your are badly worn in the slider areas so I'd swap those out. Use the new style with the wide dogs.
3) syncro rings - these aren't worth talking about - I always replace those.
4) rollers generally don't wear so those go back in.
5) thrust washers get replaced
6) both bearings get replaced
7) the tailstock bushing and seal get replaced
8) brass shift forks are usually toast and even if they're not, they get replaced with steel
9) check the input bearing retainer for cracks around the bolt holes - these are only cast iron and fall prey to over tightening. Replace it if they're cracked.
10) knocking out the reverse shaft can be a chore - don't waste your time. Clean the case well and then oil the reverse shaft and make sure the gear turns easily and leave it at that.

Thanks for the input, Stanton. I'm about 90 minutes from Passon, might be worth a trip up there and make sure I don't miss something.

[quoteIf you are going to Jamie's shop to get your parts bring the gears and syncro assemblies with you so he can get you what you need.He will inspect the gears and let you know what is needed
Gus

---

That's what I did since I was pretty close. He inspected everything and he all of the parts I needed at the shop.

Quote:

---

I'm about 90 minutes from Passon, might be worth a trip up there and make sure I don't miss something.

---

Boy, did Jamie Passon save me a lot of time and hassle. Drove up to Passon Performance today, and Jamie gave me the lowdown on my trans. Turns out there was mix-and-matched eras of parts in it, and not much of it was in good shape. It was clear that it was pretty far gone, so I went home with a rebuilt trans. Without his help I'd be chasing my tail on this one. I even got a tour of the shop and saw some real nice cars. What a true "Mopar-guy"!