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well, it will be 2 years this coming april that i started this project, but i finally got the engine on the dyno today. not bad, not bad at all!

it was a long day, as there were issues with the fuel pump system, so we lost a lot of time, but by the time we made the pull that is in the picture below, i was done.

we did a lot of rejetting, as at first it looked like it was running too lean, but then we figured out it was the fuel delivery. once we got that settled, we ended up back at the original jets, which is what it seemed to like best.

the second to last pull was at 32 degrees of timing, and the HP numbers were all consistently 5 higher than the pull in the picture, which was done at 34 degrees. so 32 degrees it is!

but by then, it was good enough for me!

dino, the guy whose dyno it is, said he had never had an engine on the dyno that drank fuel like this one did!

he also said he had never seen an engine exactly in tune from the start. this is really a testament to tim banning at FHO. i told tim exactly what i wanted, and he put everything together and sent all the pieces out to me. herb, (scatpk), and i both had long conversations with tim about the cam we were looking for, and he ended up doing a custom grind for us.

so i asked tim what jets and metering rods he uses in his engines, and set it all up according to the info he gave me.

it was great! the guys at the shop said they had never seen an engine so in tune, and also put out almost exactly what was expected of it.

750 was what i was hoping for, but i thought 710 was a bit more realistic, and that was the number i had in mind. of course with a little extrapolation, 32 degrees was getting a consistent 5 more hp, so that 712 may have been 717, and it was gaining 4-6 HP/100 rpm, so 6500 at 32 degrees may well be 742! yeah, i know i'm dreaming without real numbers, but i have to say, 712 is good enough for me!

not bad for my first engine!

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Me thinks you have more HP than what was recorded at 6000 RPM The dyno sheets says that also, the HP was still climbing when you stop the data recordng at 6000 RPM Most hemiriods will make good power well past 6300 RPM Now, how much power can your chassis and tires hold

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Were you running the oil through a cooler... thats
pretty cold on oil temp... glad your happy... whats
the CI on it

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Me thinks you have more HP than what was recorded at 6000 RPM The dyno sheets says that also, the HP was still climbing when you stop the data recordng at 6000 RPM Most hemiriods will make good power well past 6300 RPM Now, how much power can your chassis and tires hold

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yup, there is more there, it was climbing steadily!

and 571 ft lbs at 3000 is going to be fun to contain!

well, sub fame connectors are going in, and i may be able to get 295/60's under there, but not sure.

so yes, traction is going to be a problem. but a fun problem to have!

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Did you do any pulls over 6000 rpm?
Why did they stop so early?
What are the cam specs?

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Very nice. Pump gas I presume. Going into the car with big tube headers?

Can't imagine 700+ hp on the street. Automatic tranny?

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Very nice. Pump gas I presume. Going into the car with big tube headers?

Can't imagine 700+ hp on the street. Automatic tranny?

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91 pump gas. going into the car with those headers. and it's a 4 speed! now i have to figure out how to get some tire under there.

i have 275/60's on a 10" rim. i was thinking of trying 295/60's on an 8" rim, but a friend who is a racer and a mecahnical engineer said there will be wobble and some instability with that wide a tire on that narrow of a rim, so i'm not sure what i'm going to do yet.

lot of little things to do before the engine goes in, so i'll figure that one out later.

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track The bad thing about the radials is once they start to spin they will not recover unless I let off or upshift the trans(727 with a high stall converter) and let off some The bias plys may spin a little bit at first but they will hook and stop spinning after that Buy the bias plys and run 15 to 20 lbs in them on the street and let them down to 10 to 12 lbs on the days you want some tracton, don't break it I'll bet money it is going to real hard for you to shift that motor at 6000 RPM once it is hooked up and booking down the road. 6000 RPM feels good, 6500 feels better,more RPM feels so good, oh my, oh my, how am I going stop keeping my right foot nailed to the floor Good luck, have fun

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track

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so if i put bias ply on the rear, what do i run on the front?

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As long as the front end is tight and aligned properly you can run skinny radials, fat radials or bias plys on the front with bias on the back I thought you couldn't and shouldn't mix bias and radails but I found out that if the front end is tight, (mine wasn't at first, bad idler arm rubbing on the headers sometimes made it melt and get loose ) the car will drive fine It worked fine the other way also, bias on the front with the radials on the back, once the front end was fixed

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Wow mick, that's making some power. I'd just leave the tires you have on it , one you get some traction the weakest parts of your driveline will start making their presence known.

What kind of driveshaft do you have ? If it's stock now might be the time to step up to something stronger .

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Wow mick, that's making some power. I'd just leave the tires you have on it , one you get some traction the weakest parts of your driveline will start making their presence known.

What kind of driveshaft do you have ? If it's stock now might be the time to step up to something stronger .

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the drive shaft and dana all came set up from dr. diff, i don't think i have any issues there.

the tires now are goodrich radials. they won't stand a prayer's chance in he11.

i think for now i'm going to get some mickey thompson radials or streets, haven't decided which yet. i still may go the 8" 295 route, but will have to test to make sure they fit.

i know an inch more of tread width on each side will help, but i'm wondering how much, will it really be worth the effort?

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Nice build and congrats. I would turn up the oil pressure a bit if it was mine. If you spin it any higher I would make sure you have around 70 PSI.

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Good point I like to see 10 lbs per 1000 RPM, so at 7000 RPM I like to see 70 lbs. If the bearing clearances are tight, .002 to .003 on the rods and .0025 to .0030 on the mains with non full groove mains that would be the minimum with thick oil like 20W50WT, if the clearances are looser and your using thin oil, 5W30 or thinner then you can get away with a little less pressure like 65 lbs at 7400 RPM, I do

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Mick, my Hemi RR runs Radial T/A 295s on 8" wheels; it's been 120 with zero issues, but like I alluded to in my earlier reply, the car just blows them off in 1st & 2nd; and that's with only about 540HP/500TQ. I ran M&H DOTs on it once and that improved "forward progress". Could still torch 'em a bit with an aggressive launch on the street.

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It looks like I am pretty close to your combination, I am 9.5-1, similar cam, heads are similar, I had less flow at .8 but I am still good at lower lifts at [Email]367@.6[/Email],(do you know how much they flow at .600? I am using 770 quickfuel vacuum carbs. Should be about the same power. tim

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i'll see if i can dig up the flow numbers.

i'd be interested to see the difference the carbs would make. of course, would only know something for sure by putting them on my setup, but that is a good jump in CFM.

i've heard many people say that the 2X4 setup is leaving horsepower on the table, even with the stage V manifold. i've never seen numbers though.

but hey, in my book, hemi's have 2 4's

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It looks like I am pretty close to your combination, I am 9.5-1, similar cam, heads are similar, I had less flow at .8 but I am still good at lower lifts at [Email]367@.6[/Email],(do you know how much they flow at .600? I am using 770 quickfuel vacuum carbs. Should be about the same power. tim

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i'll see if i can dig up the flow numbers.

i'd be interested to see the difference the carbs would make. of course, would only know something for sure by putting them on my setup, but that is a good jump in CFM.

i've heard many people say that the 2X4 setup is leaving horsepower on the table, even with the stage V manifold. i've never seen numbers though.

but hey, in my book, hemi's have 2 4's

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I would like to build a motor with the Stage V heads and dual 4 intake with a set of either 750, 850 or 950 Holley D.P. to see what it would make I would rev it to where it made peak HP and then above that by 500 RPM to see how bad it fell off or flatten out

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I would like to build a motor with the Stage V heads and dual 4 intake with a set of either 750, 850 or 950 Holley D.P. to see what it would make I would rev it to where it made peak HP and then above that by 500 RPM to see how bad it fell off or flatten out

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it would be interesting to see what it would do with the different carb setups, but i'm not sure i'd be brave enough to put my engine in the hands of the guy who uses the "crazy me" icon as much as you do!

i think we're talking 7-7500 before we start to see it drop off. all in all i have to assume this engine would rev that high, but i guarantee i'm never going to find out!

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i have 275/60's on a 10" rim. i was thinking of trying 295/60's on an 8" rim,

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It looks like I am pretty close to your combination, I am 9.5-1, similar cam, heads are similar, I had less flow at .8 but I am still good at lower lifts at [Email]367@.6[/Email],(do you know how much they flow at .600? I am using 770 quickfuel vacuum carbs. Should be about the same power. tim

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i'll see if i can dig up the flow numbers.

i'd be interested to see the difference the carbs would make. of course, would only know something for sure by putting them on my setup, but that is a good jump in CFM.

i've heard many people say that the 2X4 setup is leaving horsepower on the table, even with the stage V manifold. i've never seen numbers though.

but hey, in my book, hemi's have 2 4's

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I would like to build a motor with the Stage V heads and dual 4 intake with a set of either 750, 850 or 950 Holley D.P. to see what it would make I would rev it to where it made peak HP and then above that by 500 RPM to see how bad it fell off or flatten out

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it would be interesting to see what it would do with the different carb setups, but i'm not sure i'd be brave enough to put my engine in the hands of the guy who uses the "crazy me" icon as much as you do!

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I still cringe (butthole still puckers up real tight) every time one of my new motors or a customers motors goes to full throttle against the water brake on the engine dyno the first cuople of times It is not easy to not cringe at the sound of a motor being held at WOT at 3500 RPM before the pull starts I have hurt one of my motors on a engine dyno tuning it, I had a set of 1050 Dominators on a tunnel ram and one of the secondary power valve block off plugs had come loose a little, it wouuld read real rich at WOT on the AFR and the motor kepting gaining power by leaning out the jetting, I had jetted a pair of stock Holley 9375 down by 10 jet sizes, I knew something was wrong but I wasn't smart enough back then to stop the jet changing and go looking for the real problem I ended up burning up three pistons during the last pull My message is you have to learn to trust your feelings, when your mind is telling you something is not making sense there is usually a reason for it,(feeling that way) you should listen to your mind and stop what your doing and go looking for what is really wrong
BTW, I have a new 4.490 rough bore World hemi block and a new 4.300 Hemi stroker crank sitting here that belongs to a customer who wants to build a big power pump gas street Hemi for his 1970 Challenger, it will end up with the street Stage V heads, 2x4 Stage V intake and several sets of those carbs on it, if the economy ever recovers enough so he can finish buying the rest of the parts for his build That combination should make right at 547 C.I. and I'm hoping for 1.4 HP per C.I.(767 HP) off of his build Similar torque also

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Since your cam is in the .600 range, that is where the flow numbers count, at .800 is not much help if your cam does not have that much lift.

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I still cringe (butthole still puckers up real tight) every time one of my new motors or a customers motors goes to full throttle against the water brake on the engine dyno the first cuople of times

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head flow #'s

exhaust

.100 62
.200 141
.300 186
.400 230
.500 257
.550 268
.600 279
.650 288
.700 294
.750 297
.800 300

intake

.100 74
.200 161
.300 248
.400 315
.500 382
.550 410
.600 434
.650 449
.700 454
.750 458
.800 463

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I may have to look at CNC porting mine, I only had 367 at .6 and it was only 373 at .700, so I probably will come up short on power compared to yours. Tim

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Mine is going into a street car so I think that I have more than enough horsepower, with a pair of 770 quick fuel carbs with annual boosters in the primaries, and 30 more cubic inchs, I am still a real power house. I did upgrade to the Jana 76 axle, that was a time consuming but learning project over the holidays. With only 9.5-1, I can travel anywhere and fill up. My goal is to drive it as much as I can afford to, as long as gas prices remain tolerable. Tim

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methinks you will have more than the car can handle!