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well, it will be 2 years this coming april that i started this project, but i finally got the engine on the dyno today. not bad, not bad at all!

it was a long day, as there were issues with the fuel pump system, so we lost a lot of time, but by the time we made the pull that is in the picture below, i was done.

we did a lot of rejetting, as at first it looked like it was running too lean, but then we figured out it was the fuel delivery. once we got that settled, we ended up back at the original jets, which is what it seemed to like best.

the second to last pull was at 32 degrees of timing, and the HP numbers were all consistently 5 higher than the pull in the picture, which was done at 34 degrees. so 32 degrees it is!

but by then, it was good enough for me!

dino, the guy whose dyno it is, said he had never had an engine on the dyno that drank fuel like this one did!

he also said he had never seen an engine exactly in tune from the start. this is really a testament to tim banning at FHO. i told tim exactly what i wanted, and he put everything together and sent all the pieces out to me. herb, (scatpk), and i both had long conversations with tim about the cam we were looking for, and he ended up doing a custom grind for us.

so i asked tim what jets and metering rods he uses in his engines, and set it all up according to the info he gave me.

it was great! the guys at the shop said they had never seen an engine so in tune, and also put out almost exactly what was expected of it.

750 was what i was hoping for, but i thought 710 was a bit more realistic, and that was the number i had in mind. of course with a little extrapolation, 32 degrees was getting a consistent 5 more hp, so that 712 may have been 717, and it was gaining 4-6 HP/100 rpm, so 6500 at 32 degrees may well be 742! yeah, i know i'm dreaming without real numbers, but i have to say, 712 is good enough for me!

not bad for my first engine!

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Me thinks you have more HP than what was recorded at 6000 RPM The dyno sheets says that also, the HP was still climbing when you stop the data recordng at 6000 RPM Most hemiriods will make good power well past 6300 RPM Now, how much power can your chassis and tires hold

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Were you running the oil through a cooler... thats
pretty cold on oil temp... glad your happy... whats
the CI on it

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Me thinks you have more HP than what was recorded at 6000 RPM The dyno sheets says that also, the HP was still climbing when you stop the data recordng at 6000 RPM Most hemiriods will make good power well past 6300 RPM Now, how much power can your chassis and tires hold

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yup, there is more there, it was climbing steadily!

and 571 ft lbs at 3000 is going to be fun to contain!

well, sub fame connectors are going in, and i may be able to get 295/60's under there, but not sure.

so yes, traction is going to be a problem. but a fun problem to have!

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Did you do any pulls over 6000 rpm?
Why did they stop so early?
What are the cam specs?

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Very nice. Pump gas I presume. Going into the car with big tube headers?

Can't imagine 700+ hp on the street. Automatic tranny?

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Very nice. Pump gas I presume. Going into the car with big tube headers?

Can't imagine 700+ hp on the street. Automatic tranny?

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91 pump gas. going into the car with those headers. and it's a 4 speed! now i have to figure out how to get some tire under there.

i have 275/60's on a 10" rim. i was thinking of trying 295/60's on an 8" rim, but a friend who is a racer and a mecahnical engineer said there will be wobble and some instability with that wide a tire on that narrow of a rim, so i'm not sure what i'm going to do yet.

lot of little things to do before the engine goes in, so i'll figure that one out later.

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track The bad thing about the radials is once they start to spin they will not recover unless I let off or upshift the trans(727 with a high stall converter) and let off some The bias plys may spin a little bit at first but they will hook and stop spinning after that Buy the bias plys and run 15 to 20 lbs in them on the street and let them down to 10 to 12 lbs on the days you want some tracton, don't break it I'll bet money it is going to real hard for you to shift that motor at 6000 RPM once it is hooked up and booking down the road. 6000 RPM feels good, 6500 feels better,more RPM feels so good, oh my, oh my, how am I going stop keeping my right foot nailed to the floor Good luck, have fun

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track

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If I was you and know what I know now I would not buy a radail tire for your car I have ran both types of tires the same aize on my Duuster, 315x60x15 MT ET Street Radials and M/T 13.50x30x15 ET Street(bias plys ), both on ten and twelve inch rims and the bias plys are way better and safer on the street and on the bad tracks, the radials are faster and quicker on a good to excellent track

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so if i put bias ply on the rear, what do i run on the front?

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As long as the front end is tight and aligned properly you can run skinny radials, fat radials or bias plys on the front with bias on the back I thought you couldn't and shouldn't mix bias and radails but I found out that if the front end is tight, (mine wasn't at first, bad idler arm rubbing on the headers sometimes made it melt and get loose ) the car will drive fine It worked fine the other way also, bias on the front with the radials on the back, once the front end was fixed

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Wow mick, that's making some power. I'd just leave the tires you have on it , one you get some traction the weakest parts of your driveline will start making their presence known.

What kind of driveshaft do you have ? If it's stock now might be the time to step up to something stronger .

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Wow mick, that's making some power. I'd just leave the tires you have on it , one you get some traction the weakest parts of your driveline will start making their presence known.

What kind of driveshaft do you have ? If it's stock now might be the time to step up to something stronger .

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the drive shaft and dana all came set up from dr. diff, i don't think i have any issues there.

the tires now are goodrich radials. they won't stand a prayer's chance in he11.

i think for now i'm going to get some mickey thompson radials or streets, haven't decided which yet. i still may go the 8" 295 route, but will have to test to make sure they fit.

i know an inch more of tread width on each side will help, but i'm wondering how much, will it really be worth the effort?