Is anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant?

www.evanscooling.com

Was thinking of using it in my A12.

Any opinions, or observations?

Thanks, Joe

Prestone extended life has done well for me with excellent corrosion protection. When I need to pull a hose or do other maintenance on the system, top up coolant is readily available and not too expensive. I like the flexibility.

Interesting. I take it that with the 375f boiling point, there would be no need to run a pressurized cooling system!?

And eliminating electrolysis from dissimilar metals, not having to run those zinc anodes would be a bonus. Don't get that scale crap inside the rad/heater core like with conventional coolant?

I've been running Evans in my 66 Hemi Charger for about 5 years now and love it. I'm running a 472 with the numbers matching rad and 5 blade fixed fan...never breaks 180, no matter how long I idle or how mean I am to it

It's worth the money. The down side is you need to order extra to have on hand as you can NOT add water...ever. I've not had to add any, but the surface tension is VERY thin and will leak where water will not so you system has to be tight.

My lower rad hoses had to have worm clams to keep the Evans from leaking as the factory style tension clamps weren't cutting it.

I have running Evans NPG waterless coolant for over ten years now in a 1995 5.9 V8 Ram.

I originally decided to try it to see if its claims of reducing pinging at wide open throttle were true.

I found no difference in pinging after the change.

The NPG coolant certainly does not boil over even as high as 300 degrees F, as i have seen those temps when a thermostat failed in the closed position.

My older NPG does have a quirk,
at temperatures below 25 degrees F its viscosity is high enough that you have to keep RPMs higher to force it through a radiator unless you have a winter front on the grille.

I understand that the newest formulation onf NPG+ does not do this as it has a viscosity lowering additive package.

I have a restriction in my bypass hose that i placed there to see if more flow to the radiator would make a change, but i could detect no difference.

Note that to get the Fuel economy improvement with NPG coolant you need to go to a much higher temperature and thermostat setting, perhaps 230 to 270 F.

I do not presently know of any thermostat available for Magnum V8s over 205,
Or 213 degrees for other engines,
So how does one practically try out the high coolant temperatures besides manually blocking airflow to the radiator?

At these higher temperatures you need hoses and gaskets rated to these higher temperatures,
and rubbery items may still have shorter liives before failures.

The concept of 3 to 9% better MPG
at 270 degrees F
instead of
195 degrees
is probably technically sound.

I am still on my original water pump and it may be possible that rotating seal life is better with the more lubricating NPG, and cavitation wear on the impellor may be less. Corrosion on internal surfaces may be less too.

I think the people who answer the telephone or emails about technical questions at Evans are BS'ers though,
coming from a mining engineer prospective.

360View:

How about taking your fan off and half-blocking the rad (top half, better aero )?

I went electric fan on my 360 Mag and can get the temp up there with the switch shut off around town. Out on the highway though it goes back to 195 and stays there. Would have to block it a bit out on the road.......like the '13 Rams.......

SRT Rams started it: they have block-off shields in the front too.

I just emailed them and asked for an MSDS. We'll see what pops out.

I have run without the clutch fan blades bolted on while NPG was the coolant for extended periods during winter months in North Carolina.

I did a 204 mile MPG round trip test
at a steady 70 mph
on I-40 from Fuquay Varina to Morehead City NC
without the fan,
after doing a similar test over the same route
with a fan the day before.
(I now believe to do a reliable comparison test you need two trucks running convoy style to find small fuel economy differences)

I have blocked as much as 75 % of the radiator area during winter highway trips, leaving the hot drivers side 25% unblocked.

On a 50 degree fall day i tried idling in a parking spot without a fan for an extended time.
The temp gauge would go up to the
260 to 280 degree F range
and the smoothness of the engine would noticeably improve.
There was never any boil over.

Despite your knowledge of what the NPG coolant is supposed to be able to do,
you have a feeling of anxiety
while running tests like this,
and seeing those gauge readings,
Even after several years of experience.

The OBD-I pcm computer is supposed to adjust ignition timing as the coolant temperature goes up, but i am not sure if there is an upper limit to how much retard it will do.

I was also running Mobil One syn 15W-50 engine oil.

My experience was similar experience with respect to the viscosity and performance gains. I used from the start on an RHS built 340 .060 over comp cams 280H from about 1989-1991. Cooling was not an issue. But after loosing coolant on a couple of occassions where I couldn't catch it all, that was the end of testing for me. If had become more available and the price had dropped, maybe I would have stayed with it. Maybe.

If you built an engine specifically around its characteristics, thats where potential gains lie.
For purposes of this discussion, the propylene glycol itself is not any more corrosion inhibiting than ethylene glycol. The main factor is the inhibitors added. When you're laying in the stuff, you quickly realize how aggressive it most be. It's doesn't hurt you in anyway but it gets warm.

The viscosity issue might be reduced with more flow capacity in the radiator.

I got the MSDS back. Looks like it's nothing really special.

COMPONENT INFORMATION
00107-21-1 Ethylene Glycol **
00057-55-6 Propylene Glycol
- - - - - - Proprietary Corrosion Inhibitor Package

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol

Sample quote

Propylene glycol
is considered Generally Recognized As Safe
by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration,
and it is used as an humectant (E1520), solvent, and preservative in food and for tobacco products, as well as being the major ingredient in the liquid used in electronic cigarettes (along with vegetable glycerine and, more rarely, PEG 400).
It is also used in pharmaceutical and personal care products.[4]
Propylene glycol is a solvent in many pharmaceuticals, including oral, injectable and topical formulations, such as for diazepam and lorazepam that are insoluble in water, use propylene glycol as a solvent in their clinical, injectable forms[6].
Like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol is able to lower the melting point of water, and so it is used as aircraft de-icing fluid.[4][7]
It is similarly used as automotive antifreeze.[8]

Propylene glycol is an ingredient in the oil dispersant Corexit, used in great quantities during the Deepwater Horizon oil spill[9][10]

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto...05#.UQARtXy9KSM

Sample quote




Ideal for all engine uses
A nontoxic, virgin propylene glycol formula for superior engine protection during storage or operation. Inhibitors protect against corrosion, and additives help prevent breakdown at high temperatures. Biodegrades rapidly. We do not recommend usage at full strength in engine systems. Not for use in potable water systems.
Use as a coolant in the summer and as antifreeze in the winter
96% propylene glycol may be diluted to the solution you wish
Special additives guard against slime and scale
Not recommended for use full strength in engine systems
Not recommended for use in potable water systems
End quote


(Evans NPG+ has a different additive package. In their original instructions years ago Evans said to flush your system prior to adding their product with the "Sierra" propylene glycol antifreeze available back then.)

This must be some voodoo crap, your oil temps at 270 water temp must be close to 300, oil starts breaking down at about 250/260 , the additives in our current oils do not like excessive oil temps. You would also have to change your clearances to run consistantly at those temps. Tim

Its a novel idea....but when you get a hole in your radiator from whatever reason, maybe a bird you will be scurrying to get under the car and collect as much coolant as you can with any vessel available from a cloth to a can. There is no expansion which is great, no pressure to push against the system.

I dunno how to go about putting it in your existing system, your heater core is going to hold more than three percent, gonna have to make sure everything is sucked out, blown out, dried up and then start adding....still...I can't see myself spending $160 on it....If it were half price I would think about it because of the potential dielectrolysis in my system but I have zinc anodes in place to escape whatever I can