I bought one of those multi-slotted reluctors a while back but I don't know what I did with the instructions. If someone could scan it and PM me with it, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

PM eberg , or I can do it tonight or tomorrow , I recently bought one but it's at home ...

You could set the cap on the dist & make a mark on the top perimeter edge of the dist at the center of a cap bulge. this is the center of the cap metal terminal. Then take the cap off & only vac adv will change phasing once you pick a roll pin hole & ideally you want a hole selection that locates the rotor an equal distance from the center of the cap terminal (your mark) with the vac adv can at zero vacuum (retracted) and at full vacuum, checked with the magnet dead even with a reluctor tooth then the magnet a C hair further CW (BB) from the tooth (that's when it fires). If a roll pin hole will not locate it equidistant I prefer to have it slightly closer at the no vacuum (retracted) position as the required voltage will be greatest at that point (WOT). A Mityvac or similar vacuum pump is handy for this and an Echlin MO3000 rotor has a .060" longer rotor blade which works good in conjunction with this & is highly recommended & will reduce the radial clearance & let you get by with more error on the arc tho with that many machined holes to choose from you can get it dead on and any air distance (radially or in the arc it swings in) ups the required voltage & is a waste of energy & uneccessarily stresses the ign system (especially the coil) and note that a vac adv can with (8) stamped on the arm will swing the rotor in an 8 degree (dist) arc. EDIT If no vacuum pump you can find the arc length around the circumference that the can will sweep the rotor tip by C=Pi x diameter. diameter would be the distance from the center of the center cap terminal to the center of an outside terminal times 2. That # x 3.1416 for circumference then divide that # into 360 for the arc distance it will sweep in 1 degree then times that # by the # of degrees stamped on the can. keep the rotor tip filed sharp (lightly as to not remove any material/shorten its' length) as sharp edges require less voltage than a rounded edge for the spark to jump and you can have the tip to cap terminal distance as tight as .015" if the bushing(s)/shaft radial play is tight/no slop and can extend the tip even further with solder if needed and can add a flat washer under the spring clip to keep the assy from rising up & putting the rotor into the top edge of the cap terminal keeping in mind that you need some clearance to get the clip in/out & side bennie of this is it will keep the slot plate from coming up/off of the 2 pins when pulling the reluctor on/off till you find the correct roll pin hole.

I scanned it , it's a PDF , NOT sure it will attach ... if it doesn't PM me your email address and I'll send it to you .

edit ... it appears to have attached , when I click the attachment it opens my adobe reader ...

this is something I found looong time ago

It has been a few years, but from what I remember I designed the extra slots in the reluctor to be at 2 degree increments. I think the instructions showed which slot was what degree but I don't remember anymore. Last time I made those reluctors was probably 5 years ago.

Thanks John! That's the document I have in mind as it has the six slots the Rick E does on his reluctors. I sent you a PM to email it to me as the attachment has some washout where the tags are in the illustration. Maybe the email will be a little clearer.