Dip or Blast, and at what point?
#1362976
01/01/13 10:43 PM
01/01/13 10:43 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
|
Looking to get started on next project. The car is going to have some major sheet metal repair. I will be replacing quarters, extension, trunk floor, and floor pans. Rockers and frame rails look to be solid but need some attention to clean up surface rust and remove undercoating. Since I am removing so much metal, I was thinking about sending the shell out for sand blasting the frame rails and non external sheet metal. But I have seen some magazine articles on dipping. Since the car has quite a bit surface rust, I was thinking this may be the way to go.
The question comes in is do I cut out the quarters and floor pans and use temporary supports to hold everything in place before blasting? Or have it dipped as is then cut out old sheet metal? The driver side quarter has been repaired by a someone using a spatula and bondo (see picture).
Anyway, I was starting to think about what steps to take and was looking for opinions on what others thought or may have done in the past.
68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: Stewpar]
#1362978
01/02/13 10:06 AM
01/02/13 10:06 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,916
new berlin wisconsin
Mr T2U
master
|
master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,916
new berlin wisconsin
|
for best results, also most expensive,
have car dipped to remove paint and rust.
replace rusted metal.
then dipped again to remove surface rust that has formed while sitting and ecoated.
perception is 90% of reality
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: Mr T2U]
#1362979
01/02/13 12:37 PM
01/02/13 12:37 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
sixpackbee
master
|
master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
|
I prefer to replace what is needed. Then have the car stripped in a non corrosive bath. Read: no acid. Then ecoat the whole thing. The Daytona I am doing is in the projects section, hole in my foot Daytona, and I just posted some pictures from the process if you like to see what is involved. No other way to do it if you have a car you feel deserves it. The only reason I say that is it is somewhat expensive. When you put pen to paper for a comparison to blasting and the headaches involved there it is worth it.
Last edited by sixpackbee; 01/02/13 12:38 PM.
1959 Bugeye Sprite
1967 Charger Black L code
1967 Coronet R/T Convert Green 440 auto bought from original owner
1968 Charger R/T Bronze 440 4 spd console AM/FM
1969 Super Bee WM21H B5 A40 D21 N96
1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Convert pilot car
1969 Hemi Road Runner RM23J D32 Omaha orange 4.10 Dana N96 N85
1970 Super Bee WM23N FE5 V1X 3.91 axle package, N96
1970 Road Runner RM21N B3 V1X D13
1971 MG Midget
1971 Road Runner RM23H GW3, A57
1972 Road Runner RM23P FY1, D21
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: RSNOMO]
#1362982
01/02/13 02:49 PM
01/02/13 02:49 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
|
If dipped, expect to replace more metal than you expected because if it's thin there will be pinholes. I prefer to blast, it only costs me the price of sand. I blast, blow it off/vacuum, then epoxy them right away.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: RoadRunner]
#1362983
01/02/13 02:53 PM
01/02/13 02:53 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
|
I steam cleaned my car after it was stripped of parts and on a rotissiere. It was bare metal with no undercoating at all when I got done steam cleaning it and it only took 3.5 hours to strip it of all undercoating. Perfecty clean ready for sheet metal replacement. Now I'm ready for sheet metal replacement on jack stands in garage to insure nothing moves. Then after all the sheet metal replacement I will lighty media blast the whole thing before paint. Lucky I can do it all in my backyard and the car never leaves my place. If you have time checkout my thread about my most recent car, I have done 2 cars like this so far. web page
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1362984
01/02/13 08:46 PM
01/02/13 08:46 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,025
Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
|
Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,025
Benton, IL.
|
Do you believe you will be keeping the car for a long time? If so, for a car with rust history, the blasting will do nothing to stop the rust. Only replacing the entire panel or dipping will stop the rust. When you get the car back from being dipped, you will be shocked at the extent of the rust damage. Other than the cost, the biggest issue with dipping a car is re-sealing the seams and getting all the stripper out of the nooks and crannies. Left here it will continue to eat away at the metal. A good flush with a neutralizing agent is essential. Blasting is only good for a car with minimum rust issues (past and present) or a car that is going to be flipped and the current owner is not particularly interested in the long term consequences. 
Master, again and still
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: birdtracker]
#1362989
01/03/13 01:13 AM
01/03/13 01:13 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 727
Falcon, CO
71pettyblue
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 727
Falcon, CO
|
In 2001, on my way to Carlisle, I dropped off my '65 Sport Fury's hood, fenders, inner fenders, core support, doors, and deck lid at Central Indiana Redi Strip. Six days later I picked up the parts as they came out of the tanks. All of the parts were immersion stripped in a caustic solution (pH 12, IIRC) which removed the paint and any bondo; and the parts were electrified which removed any rust. As the parts came out of the immersion tank, they were thoroughly rinsed and then dipped in a phosphate solution which prevented any rust (at least in our dry Colorado climate). I recommend this process, but if your car's body has extensive rust, they will warn you of the outcome before they start. http://www.redistripindy.com/ My Sport Fury is a convertible, I had the body blasted a shop in Colorado Springs that uses crushed garnet (about 200 grit), the sheet metal had a frosted glass like texture.
Tony
Retired Mopar Enthusiast
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: RoadRunner]
#1362990
01/03/13 12:25 PM
01/03/13 12:25 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
|
Thanks for all the responses so far. I was out looking at the car again last night and my biggest concern is the hidden areas such as the rockers, cowl vents and inside the frame rails. I plan on keeping this car as it was my first car. The majority of bondo in the car is due to an accident. The whole driverside inner structure, door jamb and quarter will be replaced. The quarters and extensions have rust and will be replaced. As I scrape the roofing tar off the trunk floor pan, I am becoming optimitic that I may be able to save the trunk floor. The floor pans had patches, but then I hacked out the 4 speed hump, so I am installing a new pan. I do think there will be some surpries if I get the car dipped, but I would rather find them at the beginning.
I dug up the old thread on Redi Strip and it looks like there is a similar service offered in Toronto. That may be closer than driving to Toledo or Indiana.
68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
|
|
|
Re: Dip or Blast, and at what point?
[Re: RoadRunner]
#1362991
01/03/13 03:08 PM
01/03/13 03:08 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
Thanks for all the responses so far. I was out looking at the car again last night and my biggest concern is the hidden areas such as the rockers, cowl vents and inside the frame rails. I plan on keeping this car as it was my first car. The majority of bondo in the car is due to an accident. The whole driverside inner structure, door jamb and quarter will be replaced. The quarters and extensions have rust and will be replaced. As I scrape the roofing tar off the trunk floor pan, I am becoming optimitic that I may be able to save the trunk floor. The floor pans had patches, but then I hacked out the 4 speed hump, so I am installing a new pan. I do think there will be some surpries if I get the car dipped, but I would rather find them at the beginning.
I dug up the old thread on Redi Strip and it looks like there is a similar service offered in Toronto. That may be closer than driving to Toledo or Indiana.
Make sure it's not acid,otherwise you will create more rust than you had in places that would never rust. Alkaline dipping is safe and I believe that's what Redi Strip does. It will cost around 5-6k to get a car done
Remove all panels you are planning to replace, brace the remaining unibody and send it out. From what I remember, you will have to make a hole in the center of the roof for the trapped air to escape when it's submerged in the tank.
|
|
|
|
|
