Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: Tommy383]
#1361992
12/30/12 11:48 PM
12/30/12 11:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
Management Trainee
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Management Trainee
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
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1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 Counter Clockwise rotation.. Bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke & see were the rotor is pointing.... It should point to #1 located like the picture below...
As mentioned A fresh motor that does not fire right off is a good candidate for a wiped cam lobe
"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
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Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#1361993
12/31/12 12:33 AM
12/31/12 12:33 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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pull the plugs & bump it at the starter relay till you feel psi start to build significantly on your thumb over the #1 plug hole (front drivers side) then hand turn it some more with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the timing marks are at 10BTDC if a mild cam or 15BTDC if a wild cam. Turn the dist housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth that places the #1 dist cap terminal over or nearly over the rotor with the vac can in its' correct general location with room to be turned either way. As said check that the wires are routed 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 CCW from that point & you can reroute the wires if needed but keeping the OE #1 wire location is highly recommended for standardization & preventing future mixups & lets the wires nestle neatly with the shortest lengths possible and you can reclock the intergear if need be so #1 is where you want it rather than relocating the wires if you want to do it that way & sometimes different dizzys are phased different between the bottom tang orientation and the rotor clocking & the intergear needs to be lifted up & rotated as having the intergear slot parallel as the book says does not always work. Pull the intake & regoop the cam. You have alot of money and time in this & cam issues are notorious so no time to skimp now expecially since you are so close. Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (5 minute read). Make a mark with a white marking pen 2&7/32" clockwise from the OE TDC slit on the dampener which is 35 degrees & when it fires have the guy manning the light turn the dist to get that amt at ~2500 rpm with the vac adv capped. Stat out. Front of car elevated (air pockets). Shop fan in front of rad. Any issues/leaks shut it down ASAP then fix it & restart it continuing with the 20 minute time frame. good luck EDIT when you lined up the tchain/gears dot to dot (6&12 o'clock) #6 is firing not #1 as commonly believed and you would want the rotor under #6 plug wire but the above will take care of it for you. Holler how things go
Last edited by RapidRobert; 12/31/12 01:12 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: Tommy383]
#1361995
01/06/13 06:22 PM
01/06/13 06:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Needle & seat are flooding. Might pull the assy's out & clean them with a shot of starting fluid or replace them & might be a good idea to pull the bowls & see if it's good inside & that'd let you invert the bowls & with a drill bit set the dry float level dead on when you go back together
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: Tommy383]
#1361996
01/06/13 07:37 PM
01/06/13 07:37 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,406 New Jersey, USA
yella71
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,406
New Jersey, USA
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make sure that your push rods aren't to long and holding the valves open. run a comp. test see what you have. seen it before . pushrods too long holding the valves open no compression no start.
71 challenger convertable, 64 sport fury 383 ci with factory air
99 sebring convertable
89 CTD pup
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Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1361997
01/06/13 08:24 PM
01/06/13 08:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688 Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Quote:
Needle & seat are flooding. Might pull the assy's out & clean them with a shot of starting fluid or replace them & might be a good idea to pull the bowls & see if it's good inside & that'd let you invert the bowls & with a drill bit set the dry float level dead on when you go back together
Man, between all the cranking, and now the fuel wash / dilution, that cam will be on borrowed time from day one, and the rings may not be far behind.
Hope I am wrong. Sorry!
Rick
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Re: fresh 383 build wont start
[Re: Tommy383]
#1362004
01/09/13 11:20 AM
01/09/13 11:20 AM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,880 Out in Left Field, NY
bobs66440
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,880
Out in Left Field, NY
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Quote:
Alright, I got off a little early today and decided to get a head start. I was happy to get the front end pulled off without having to remove the radiator/fluid. The crank sprocket was installed on the square slot, not the circle. I have everything lined up and feel confident no contact between the cam and piston was made. Small cam. Tomorrow I will get new gaskets and try to fire. No wonder I wasn't getting compression with the finger test! I will post videos tomorrow.
Even so, on the Cloyes set (which I assume you have) the square slot is only 2 degrees retarded (on the cam). As long as you installed it square to dot with the #1 piston at TDC, it should make little difference and run fine, albeit with a little less low end torque. With the mark at 6:00 on cam gear and 12:00 on crank gear with #1 piston at TDC is exhaust stroke. with the marks at 12:00 and 12:00 and #1 piston at TDC is compression stroke and #1 firing.
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