Re: Regasketing a 383 tomorrow anything i should know?
[Re: ryanf]
#1359984
12/28/12 12:09 AM
12/28/12 12:09 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I wouldn't sweat the bolts. I'd pull the dist/inter shaft & preoil it & also oil the cyls.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Regasketing a 383 tomorrow anything i should know?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1359985
12/28/12 12:22 AM
12/28/12 12:22 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,230
restos just aren't my thing
gtsuperbee
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,230
restos just aren't my thing
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A rear main is always a good call as well as soft plugs with a little indian head.
Restoring a car to look "only" as good as the factory made it is like getting a boob job for your wife and having the doctor make them two different sizes to seem more natural
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Re: Regasketing a 383 tomorrow anything i should know?
[Re: ryanf]
#1359990
12/28/12 03:49 AM
12/28/12 03:49 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,375
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,375
Bend,OR USA
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Start on the head bolts on the middle center head bolt between the two center cylinders,I start at 25 or 30 Ft. Lbs depending on the torque wrench I'm using, and then go down to the two bottom head bolts, then go up to the two top bolts in the lifter valley and then down to the two lower outer head bolts and then the center head bolts between the inner and outer cylinders and work your way around and out   Once I torque both sides to 25 or 30 lbs I go up to 50 lbs. and then finish at 70 ft. lbs. I do oil(lightly ) the threads on the head bolts and I use head bolt washers so they get a drop of oil on them between the head bolt shoulders and washer tops On the intake manifold I do the two center bolts on each side first and then do the two outer ones, torque them down at least twice, 35 ft. lbs on aluminum intakes and 45 ft. lbs on stock cast iron  IHTHs I just finished doing this to a 426 Hemi motor that had been freshen then sat for quite a while in Portland, it had some light rust in it and a lot of grit inside throughout the motor, I took it completely apart and found that the main and rod bearing clearances where to tight also   I was able to use some race rod bearings but we had to have the main web align honed to get the main bearing clearances to the stock specs instead of to tight  Engine assembly is like brain surgery, you can't keep it to clean   Clean, clean, clean and then clean some more
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 12/28/12 03:56 AM.
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Re: Regasketing a 383 tomorrow anything i should know?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1359991
12/28/12 04:09 AM
12/28/12 04:09 AM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,170
CT
GTX MATT
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,170
CT
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Believe it or not the torquing sequence on the head bolts isn't too confusing, you're pretty much just trying to iron it out from the center to the outsides, and as said before go in 3 increments to the desired torque.
If the rear main seal in it is rope then leave it.
Put the timing cover on before the oil pan.
Don't over-torque the valve covers.
You'll be all right. You may want to use some copper spray on those steel gaskets though, you're SUPPOSED to only use those on freshly machined heads, that being said you'll probably be ok. I like copper spray myself though.
Don't permatex around the intake ports, use copper spray on the intake face part of the valley pan, and some rtv in the corners where the pan, head, and block meet.
Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
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Re: Regasketing a 383 tomorrow anything i should know?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1359994
12/28/12 03:01 PM
12/28/12 03:01 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,054
USA
b54406barrel
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,054
USA
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Quote:
Start on the head bolts on the middle center head bolt between the two center cylinders,I start at 25 or 30 Ft. Lbs depending on the torque wrench I'm using, and then go down to the two bottom head bolts, then go up to the two top bolts in the lifter valley and then down to the two lower outer head bolts and then the center head bolts between the inner and outer cylinders and work your way around and out Once I torque both sides to 25 or 30 lbs I go up to 50 lbs. and then finish at 70 ft. lbs. I do oil(lightly ) the threads on the head bolts and I use head bolt washers so they get a drop of oil on them between the head bolt shoulders and washer tops On the intake manifold I do the two center bolts on each side first and then do the two outer ones, torque them down at least twice, 35 ft. lbs on aluminum intakes and 45 ft. lbs on stock cast iron IHTHs I just finished doing this to a 426 Hemi motor that had been freshen then sat for quite a while in Portland, it had some light rust in it and a lot of grit inside throughout the motor, I took it completely apart and found that the main and rod bearing clearances where to tight also I was able to use some race rod bearings but we had to have the main web align honed to get the main bearing clearances to the stock specs instead of to tight Engine assembly is like brain surgery, you can't keep it to clean Clean, clean, clean and then clean some more
 At least plastigauge all the rods & mains while you're in there. You'll sleep better. My
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